Planning future 427 build
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Planning future 427 build
Going in my 4th gen Z28.
I've been wanting an LS7 lately, but I think that may be a bit more of a hassle. We'll see what the GenIV group thinks.
My reasoning lately is that I'm pretty much wanting something that drives like stock. Granted My PatG Cam is pretty "tame" but with the 102/102 intake and ~500flywheel it makes it kinda punchy. And it's getting to the point in the game where I have to start keeping track of mileage and uses on everything in the car, and will have to look into replacing the valve springs soon, new push rods, replace the rocker trunions. Uuugh..It's a lot of babysitting for a street car. Not to mention the return fuel system I have. But I'd like to pick up where I left off HP wise.
No High maintenance TT setups please ($$$$$ also.) No real budget idea yet. But maybe under $10k for the engine after all is said and done. My trans and fuel system is built fine, so I don't have much else to worry about.
Here's what I was kicking around the noggin: Either an LS7 crate engine with a pimp set of West Coast heads (or equivalent,) slightly milled.....That's it. Looking for about 550flywheel or 480rw. Can I do a wet sump LS7??
Or else I could try and find a built shortblock 427 from an LS3 or L99, with a very good set of heads, milled slightly to bring the compression up a bit. If I were to do a cam, I would want something VERY mild, with maybe a 115 or 116 lobe separation and so I can either run stock springs or a very long lasting set of equivalents. Was thinking a good set of beehive single springs.
Just looking to spit-ball some ideas here... Just future planning....Maybe I just need a C6Z..
Thanks for the advice.
I've been wanting an LS7 lately, but I think that may be a bit more of a hassle. We'll see what the GenIV group thinks.
My reasoning lately is that I'm pretty much wanting something that drives like stock. Granted My PatG Cam is pretty "tame" but with the 102/102 intake and ~500flywheel it makes it kinda punchy. And it's getting to the point in the game where I have to start keeping track of mileage and uses on everything in the car, and will have to look into replacing the valve springs soon, new push rods, replace the rocker trunions. Uuugh..It's a lot of babysitting for a street car. Not to mention the return fuel system I have. But I'd like to pick up where I left off HP wise.
No High maintenance TT setups please ($$$$$ also.) No real budget idea yet. But maybe under $10k for the engine after all is said and done. My trans and fuel system is built fine, so I don't have much else to worry about.
Here's what I was kicking around the noggin: Either an LS7 crate engine with a pimp set of West Coast heads (or equivalent,) slightly milled.....That's it. Looking for about 550flywheel or 480rw. Can I do a wet sump LS7??
Or else I could try and find a built shortblock 427 from an LS3 or L99, with a very good set of heads, milled slightly to bring the compression up a bit. If I were to do a cam, I would want something VERY mild, with maybe a 115 or 116 lobe separation and so I can either run stock springs or a very long lasting set of equivalents. Was thinking a good set of beehive single springs.
Just looking to spit-ball some ideas here... Just future planning....Maybe I just need a C6Z..
Thanks for the advice.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 11-17-2012 at 09:34 AM.
#2
ive thought the same thing from time to time....
i keep going back to erl sleeves...why not? stronger than the ls7 block...6 bolt setup...and uses your existing covers and sensors...that in itself is pretty cool...
beings you got a fast 102...i think some cathedral ports offer better performance than ls7 and ls3 heads...not starting a fight here...just saying you already have the intake...and a cathedral head on a 427 makes street beasts...they arent dyno queens with high peak hp numbers....
i think erl will sleeve your block for 3500...minus 780 for the core (send yours in) i think these are the correct numbers...so 2800 and its machined and ready for assembly...
i keep going back to erl sleeves...why not? stronger than the ls7 block...6 bolt setup...and uses your existing covers and sensors...that in itself is pretty cool...
beings you got a fast 102...i think some cathedral ports offer better performance than ls7 and ls3 heads...not starting a fight here...just saying you already have the intake...and a cathedral head on a 427 makes street beasts...they arent dyno queens with high peak hp numbers....
i think erl will sleeve your block for 3500...minus 780 for the core (send yours in) i think these are the correct numbers...so 2800 and its machined and ready for assembly...
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^ High port velocity, eh?? Plus some to have Mamo port match me a set of AFR 225's.. Or would TFS 235's be better for cathedral 427?
If I went the rectangular port idea, I was just going to see if Mamo can work me a deal for a trade. I like this idea.. On a cold start this 102 sounds like a vacuum cleaner from hell..
If I went the rectangular port idea, I was just going to see if Mamo can work me a deal for a trade. I like this idea.. On a cold start this 102 sounds like a vacuum cleaner from hell..
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If you do end up doing a 427, will you go with an aluminum or an iron block? Also, with ERL they have a core charge unless you provide your own block. Lastly, are you thinking about spraying it?
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^ Spray is on the very back burner............and on low......
I've been on and off that fence for a long long time. Just haven't had the ***** enough to pull the trigger. If I did, it'd be a plate system with a 125 shot from Dave's.
Not sure about the block.. What would be a better option? Weight arguments aside.
I've been on and off that fence for a long long time. Just haven't had the ***** enough to pull the trigger. If I did, it'd be a plate system with a 125 shot from Dave's.
Not sure about the block.. What would be a better option? Weight arguments aside.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 11-17-2012 at 05:27 PM.
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It is an interesting topic to discuss further. I've talked to various people about this now and the answer has gone in either direction. Some say that the iron block is better for durability and longevity, while others say that the aluminum block will work fine. However, it's been recommended (to me) to stick with an LS3 block over an LS7 if spray is on the motor. For an NA application, LS7 seems to be the preferred block. I'd be interested in hearing some of the sponsors respond to this or anyone else who has experience with this.
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^ I've heard the LS7's don't like boost either. Thought it had more to do with compression or hyper pistons more than anything.
I'd like to go boost eventually, but I really don't think it'll be in the cards for quite a while.
And I'm still on the stock 10b. It's not doing very well, but it still drives fine and I can still lay 100' strips from a roll, but that give you an idea how abusive I am......... Not very abusive at all. I've had this car for 10 years now and it's still pretty strong. With that being said, I think an aluminum block would be fine.
Every LS is still 6 bolt, right?? That's the only thing that would concern me. The bottom end is braced up pretty damn well and even the deck for that matter. The whole design is just, still, amazing. Have we found a HP "ceiling" for the LS2 or LS6 blocks, even?? ****, Tom Nelson cranks out 2200hp out of his LSX 427 builds. Crazy SOB.. But that block is built for that.
But to keep build costs low, I may try to get an LQ block.
I'd like to go boost eventually, but I really don't think it'll be in the cards for quite a while.
And I'm still on the stock 10b. It's not doing very well, but it still drives fine and I can still lay 100' strips from a roll, but that give you an idea how abusive I am......... Not very abusive at all. I've had this car for 10 years now and it's still pretty strong. With that being said, I think an aluminum block would be fine.
Every LS is still 6 bolt, right?? That's the only thing that would concern me. The bottom end is braced up pretty damn well and even the deck for that matter. The whole design is just, still, amazing. Have we found a HP "ceiling" for the LS2 or LS6 blocks, even?? ****, Tom Nelson cranks out 2200hp out of his LSX 427 builds. Crazy SOB.. But that block is built for that.
But to keep build costs low, I may try to get an LQ block.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 11-17-2012 at 09:06 PM.
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Intake, I'll prolly stay with the 102... As far as heads, I'm not quite sure yet. I could see what Mamo recommends. Haven't really done a lot of research on 427 stuff, other than this. Different ball game for me. Been in the LS1 world since 03..
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^ Alright, buddy.... Calm down.. lol
Just looking for a "tame" 550hp. I know that's turbo territory, but I think I can match an LS7's charictoristics with a very mild cam, killer heads and a 102 intake. Still wanting to get rid of the NW 102 TB and swap out for a FAST 102 TB. The off idle is very sensitive even with timing pulled.
Just looking for a "tame" 550hp. I know that's turbo territory, but I think I can match an LS7's charictoristics with a very mild cam, killer heads and a 102 intake. Still wanting to get rid of the NW 102 TB and swap out for a FAST 102 TB. The off idle is very sensitive even with timing pulled.
#13
I have a LS2 sleeved and stroked to 427 cubes in my 67 Nova. LS3 heads and intake. Mild 230/236 cam. 4L60E behind it. It did 460rwhp/460torque on the chassis dyno. Works out to about 550 at the flywheel. Not huge numbers but built as a starting point for future mods.
RED did the Darton sleeves. Manley rotating assembly. I studded and dowelled the main caps. ARP head bolts.
3200 stall converter hurt the numbers a little.
The off idle torque is impressive. Next mods starting with porting the intake. I'm too cheap to by a FAST. Going to build 1 7/8" headers with merge collectors. Currently 1 3/4". Then a set of catherdal port heads next year?
I have about 3000 miles on it and it runs great. On a road trip it still did 20 mpg.
Had mildly built in the Nova previously. It ran great but the 427 is much more fun.
RED did the Darton sleeves. Manley rotating assembly. I studded and dowelled the main caps. ARP head bolts.
3200 stall converter hurt the numbers a little.
The off idle torque is impressive. Next mods starting with porting the intake. I'm too cheap to by a FAST. Going to build 1 7/8" headers with merge collectors. Currently 1 3/4". Then a set of catherdal port heads next year?
I have about 3000 miles on it and it runs great. On a road trip it still did 20 mpg.
Had mildly built in the Nova previously. It ran great but the 427 is much more fun.
#14
why not run your fast and some cathedral tea 245cc heads? there was an article on these heads and a 102 that did 700 at the crank in a 454. you can go wilder with some 275cc cathedral heads...i think RAMPANT on here runs them...with a harrop ITB intake and puts down 700RWhp with a 455...
but the kicker also ends up being by the time you get the bottom end and some heads...that 10k dollar 454 crate looks pretty good too...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html
but the kicker also ends up being by the time you get the bottom end and some heads...that 10k dollar 454 crate looks pretty good too...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html
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why not run your fast and some cathedral tea 245cc heads? there was an article on these heads and a 102 that did 700 at the crank in a 454. you can go wilder with some 275cc cathedral heads...i think RAMPANT on here runs them...with a harrop ITB intake and puts down 700RWhp with a 455...
but the kicker also ends up being by the time you get the bottom end and some heads...that 10k dollar 454 crate looks pretty good too...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html
but the kicker also ends up being by the time you get the bottom end and some heads...that 10k dollar 454 crate looks pretty good too...
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html
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I am about to start a project with a 427 also, but off of a 6.0 Iron block... forged crank, forged low compression pistons, forged bottom end, bored over .60 etc etc... Its going to be a boosted engine with a PT 88mm .96 AR Housing on Meth (Snow's) havent started on it yet, I want to get everything together first before starting. My Trans Am at the wheels should push anywhere from 850-950RWHP but I dont want to push over 20PSI because walls are too thin. In a 7.0 block you can easily push 20psi, its a strong iron block. I think Aluminum blocks are more safe for Nitrous than for any other boost set up in my opinion
#18
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I am about to start a project with a 427 also, but off of a 6.0 Iron block... forged crank, forged low compression pistons, forged bottom end, bored over .60 etc etc... Its going to be a boosted engine with a PT 88mm .96 AR Housing on Meth (Snow's) havent started on it yet, I want to get everything together first before starting. My Trans Am at the wheels should push anywhere from 850-950RWHP but I dont want to push over 20PSI because walls are too thin. In a 7.0 block you can easily push 20psi, its a strong iron block. I think Aluminum blocks are more safe for Nitrous than for any other boost set up in my opinion