Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

The car: 1993 Z28. No motor, no PCM, no transmission. Full aftermarket suspension.

The want: 600+ crank hp in a daily driver format.

The twist: I want a 6 speed auto with paddle shifters (6L80E/6L90E). Not interested in using the old LT1 or 4L60E/4L80E. The transmission will fit. The pan on the 6L90E might need to be revised because it hangs about 3" lower than the 4L60E.

What would be the easiest way to do this?

LS2/LS3 with a maggie? (Yes I know about cutting the cowl and spacing the K-member).

Turbo LS2/LS3? Money is a factor and I don't want to break the piggy bank.

New 2014+ LT1 with heads and cam? (Probably get me in the upper 500 hp area).

Open to suggestions.

Albertan

I bought a long block from a large well known engine builder. 418 ci, CNC heads, comp cam with .624 lift. Done. Happened to run across an article doing a dyno test on the engine with a few different cams. Best was 641 HP. Worst was still over 600. I have mine in a 97 BMW 3 series so it is pretty light. It will break the tires loose if I hit it at 3500 in second gear. Only issue I need to get a bit better idle tune. idling along in first gear at under 1500 just isn't happening.

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

I'm not opposed to a big cube V8 with a big cam. Camaro had a 383 LT1 with a Lloyd Elliot cam that was a 236/242 with a 109 LSA.

Who was the engine builder you went with and do you have a link to the cam article?

Albertan

Engine is from Texas Speed.
I just looked up the article again. A few years old now:http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...e-build-part2/

427 zeo6

Buy a LS9 from GMPP.....comes with a warranty.....WIN! You can even mod it to over 700HP easily.

VTC_WS6

iTrader: (9)

If 600whp is all you want, keep it simple. Bolt-on + cam + easy 100 shot + done.

joyridin'

iTrader: (1)

If you want to believe the numbers, buy a bone stock LS3. Throw in the head/cam kit from Trick Flow that claims 580 hp. Add a good intake which most add 20 hp, and you just hit 600 hp with a few bolt-ons and a tune.

KILLERARMY

Check this write up from the Super Chevy magazine.

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...-supersize-me/

NAVYBLUE210

416 CI W/ MMS 235's, MAMOFIED FAST 102 NW 102 TB
CAM MOTION Cam 243*/247* make 650-680 Crank HP depending on
All the little details. 235*/239* .610"/.590" LSA 115* +3*
make 600-620 Crank and be totally tame Daily Driver!

Heck even 6.0 with MMS 220's could reach 600 Crank
With Low Lash Solid Roller! @ 7K+ RPM

6.2 with 235's also

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

Not going to do nitrous.

LS9 will be way out of my price range. How hard would it be to drop an LSA in? Does the LSA blower sit higher than a TVS 2300?

I'm leaning towards heads and cam LS3 but a part of me also wants to go LSX block with a forged bottom end so I have some options in the future. If I were to go with an LSX block, what would be a good set of heads to go with? Are the MMS 235s the best bet? How much are they? Who carries them? Couldn't find a price online.

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks!

NAVYBLUE210

LSX IRON 434" (4.155 X 4.0) TFS LS7 Heads?,
Vara-Ram Intake CAMMOTION LLSR 11.5:1 Comp.
1 7/8 - 2 ARH Stepped LT's
620+ RWHP EASY!

Tuskyz28

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1784755-new-product-launch-mamo-motorsports-235-cc.html

NAVYBLUE210

If you go LSX 427 or larger I would go MMS 250 ( not quite out yet )
For Cathedral, or TFS LS7 in a Square Head (huge flow from 260 CC)!

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

Also keep in mind this thing has to be able to be daily driven. So no 109 LSA cams with an idle that will rattle your fillings loose.

Tuskyz28

Well visit some of Tony Mamo builds.... He is know for making BIG POWER with cams that don't surge/buck you to death. It can be done by paying very close attention to detail such as the heads/intake/exhaust system etc.....
here is a 417 build by the man himself. Visit here......

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1324130-417-cid-new-v2-afr-230-heads-now-updated-w-chassis-dyno-s.html

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

What do you guys suppose the price difference would be between buying an LS3 motor off eBay to stroke to a 427 or starting with an LSX block and then building from scratch? In both cases I would be using the Mamo 235 or 250 heads and a all new forged internals, f-body oil pan, etc.

I'm concerned about going with a 4.1" stroke on an LS3. Or should I not worry?

NAVYBLUE210

Although some will say not to worry about the 4.1" stroke I
Would not use it. A 4.00" stroke with a LS3 gives 416" and with
The MMS 235 Cylinder Heads will provide easy 550+ RWHP
with a very street able cam. With the LSX Block with a minimum
4.125 Bore I would do the MMS 250, again with a moderate sized
cam and All the little details could approach 600 RWHP.
Contact Tony @ MMS when you are ready!

Tuskyz28

^^agreed!! I would NOT recommend a 4.100" stroke om a factory block. It'll pull the piston out the bottom of the bore holes too much. That leads to oil control problems down the road...

Notice you mentioned Lsx block. I would NOT use that block in a all motor application. Sure it have max strength but those blocks weigh 230 lbs!! I would recommend sending a LS2/LS3 block to a shop to have dry sleeved. Plus with Darton sleeves the block will be able to hold 1500 horsepower. With a resleeved block you'll have a longer cylinder wall than factory to play with for large stokes and the bore can go up to 4.185"!! That block would only be 104 lbs on the nose vs 230 with the LSX block## you want to keep all the weight off the nose of the car.

Gripenfelter

iTrader: (1)

LS2s are supposed to be stronger but in my application would it be better to just get an LS3 block?

The reason I was looking at an LSX block is because I know someone on the net selling one it's a few hundred cheaper than Jegs.