Clevite Kid

My service manual says to install the header bolts with threadlock GM P/N 12345493, and to reinstall the oxygen sensors with GM antiseize GM P/N 5613695. In both cases they state "or the equivalent".

My question: what is the equivalent that I might find at NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys or AutoZone?

Thanx in advance . . . .

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

12345493 = Loctite 272

GM anti-seize can be substituted with any copper based electrically conductive anti-seize

Clevite Kid

Thanx, I will pick up some of the high-temp. Loctite. I have Nickel Never-Seez which should be fine for the O2 sensors.

mebuildit

Use C5 copper thread lube for all of your exhaust and spark plugs. Never use the silver anti-seize for spark plug use. It does not allow for proper grounding of the plug with the silver. I found out the hard way at the track.

Ever since I started using the copper stuff I swear by it for everything it seems like. For your exhaust flanges a light coat of the copper gasket maker also works quite well for the hard to seal flanges or collectors.

Copper works really well to for all of your fasteners if you have a steel bolt into an aluminum piece, it will come right out hassle free.

I work in the Missile Defense / Aerospace arena and have tried several types of thread compounds and have found that the copper hands down is the best. Sure there are some out there that work, but more times that none the benefits of the copper outweigh the cost.

Another product that we use is Milk of Magnesia yes it's true. We use it on peices that slide into one another and see high heat temps. Surprisingly, the peices come apart quite easily.

Just thought I'd throw in my .02¢

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Silver has a higher elect and thermal conductivity than copper. Thats why high end electronics have silver or gold contacts. Swagelocks silver based antiseize is the best product I have used but is very expensive. Copper is a good budget answer.

mebuildit

Then why does the silver anti-seize make your spark plugs not ground and the copper does?

Do you have anything to back that up? other than swagelocks? Those are tube fittings and I am talking about grounding spark plugs.

We are comparing apples and oranges here.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

I've used the silver colored with no problems ever. It's made for use on sparkplugs. The sparkplug will ground properly when it seats against the head (angled face or washer). Just make sure the mating surface is free of dirt.

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Yes i can "back that up"
I looked at my elect reference book (ugly's electrical-references revised 1987 edition by George V. Hart) and silver has a 6% higher elect conductivity that copper.
Tools like you are why I dont care to add much to this board anymore. It appears only your opinion is of any value not anyone elses. You will notice I did not attack your OPINION even though I disagreed with it. GROW UP JUNIOR.
And for the record I have used the silver based product on my plugs for years without issue. So it is apples to apples! Maybe you just dont know how to thread a spark plug in.

Clevite Kid

Here is a website from a major supplier of many different anti-seize compounds including both copper and "silver" (actually nickel).

http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm

Nickel is superior to copper for all applications, except where cost is the major or determining factor.

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

The OP asked for the equivalent product to the GM numbers, copper is what GM uses on the 02 sensors. I personally think either will work fine.

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

Actually NOT. the product I quoted has real silver not nickle. It has been 10 year since I bought it. (lasts a long time) the tube is the size of my little finger and was $45 then.

http://www.swagelok.com/leak_detecto...lubricants.htm

mebuildit

Well I'm not gonna start a feud. I know what works for me and you know what works for you.

I was just trying to let others know what I have found out thru my past experiences.

Clevite Kid

Possible explanation for conflicting advice on using threadlocker on header bolts:

When installing headers, the instructions suggest, recommend, or insist that you re-torque the header bolts after 100 miles or so. GM can't do that on factory engines, so they use the high-temperature threadlocker to keep the bolts from backing out.

GM's advice, in the shop manual for R&Ring the exhaust manifolds, is to use the threadlocker since no customer is going to come back in 100 miles to have his or her exhaust manifold bolts retorqued.

So what should I, the semi-skilled amateur, do when I install my Kooks - be a GM tech, or leave the threadlocker off and check the bolt torque until it stabilizes, if ever?