20w50 on a DD 402 after break-in? Or stick with 10w30?
05-08-2009, 06:53 AM
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
20w50 on a DD 402 after break-in? Or stick with 10w30? I've got over 4K miles on my 402 and I wanted to know what is the general consensus for oil weight choice.
I daily-drive my Firehawk and had no oil consumption during the first 1500 miles.
It's been over 1500 miles since my last oil change and I had to add 1 3/4 qt of oil. I've also done quite a few WOT gears on these last 1500 miles but no track or strip runs.
I was told that I should run the 20w50 weight since my car is mostly driven on the street; good idea or no? What about a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50? Bad idea?
Regardless of what weight I continue to use at the next change, I'll be sticking with the VR1 racing oil since I've had 0 issues, other than the slight consumption, thus far.
Thanks for any input!
Christopher
I daily-drive my Firehawk and had no oil consumption during the first 1500 miles.
It's been over 1500 miles since my last oil change and I had to add 1 3/4 qt of oil. I've also done quite a few WOT gears on these last 1500 miles but no track or strip runs.
I was told that I should run the 20w50 weight since my car is mostly driven on the street; good idea or no? What about a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50? Bad idea?
Regardless of what weight I continue to use at the next change, I'll be sticking with the VR1 racing oil since I've had 0 issues, other than the slight consumption, thus far.
Thanks for any input!
Christopher
05-08-2009, 11:16 AM
#2
Here is a good read. Just using the information not trying to sway you to JGD although I do carry it, the links are for information purposes
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...ter/index.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...viscosity.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...er/082106.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...ter/index.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...viscosity.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...er/082106.html
05-09-2009, 01:12 PM
#4
I've got over 4K miles on my 402 and I wanted to know what is the general consensus for oil weight choice.
I daily-drive my Firehawk and had no oil consumption during the first 1500 miles.
It's been over 1500 miles since my last oil change and I had to add 1 3/4 qt of oil. I've also done quite a few WOT gears on these last 1500 miles but no track or strip runs.
I was told that I should run the 20w50 weight since my car is mostly driven on the street; good idea or no? What about a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50? Bad idea?
Regardless of what weight I continue to use at the next change, I'll be sticking with the VR1 racing oil since I've had 0 issues, other than the slight consumption, thus far.
Thanks for any input!
Christopher
I daily-drive my Firehawk and had no oil consumption during the first 1500 miles.
It's been over 1500 miles since my last oil change and I had to add 1 3/4 qt of oil. I've also done quite a few WOT gears on these last 1500 miles but no track or strip runs.
I was told that I should run the 20w50 weight since my car is mostly driven on the street; good idea or no? What about a 50/50 mix of 10w30 and 20w50? Bad idea?
Regardless of what weight I continue to use at the next change, I'll be sticking with the VR1 racing oil since I've had 0 issues, other than the slight consumption, thus far.
Thanks for any input!
Christopher
All of my engines get 20w50 with an A/C Delco or Purolator filter. 3,000 mile changes.
My current LS6 427ci with 116,000 miles shows 58psi on start-up and will never ever drop below 40-41psi, no matter how I drive it and no matter how hot it gets outside. The only way it will go below 40-41psi is if I'm in traffic, with my A/C cranking, in 90* weather. Then it will drop to about 25-30psi "at idle", as soon as I start moving it goes right back up to 40psi under throttle.
The trick, IN MY OPINION, and its what I have always done for the past 20 years with my built cars and with my regular cars, that OTHER people do not do.
Every time I change my oil, which is always at 3,000 miles......I drain the oil down to about 2 quarts remaining, then I add 2 quarts of engine flush. I try to get all of the old oil out and it almost does doing it that way.
To each his own....but I think synthetic oils and super-duper special filters are the most ridiculous things out there. Its not like we have engines that are anything exotic or special in any way, they are the most basic of piston engines. All they need is the most basic of oils. 4 built engines and 5 different cars over the past 20 years proves that beyond all doubt. My engines never die or have trouble in any way.
20w50 Castrol GTX
05-10-2009, 01:13 AM
#5
TECH Resident
Here is a good read. Just using the information not trying to sway you to JGD although I do carry it, the links are for information purposes
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...ter/index.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...viscosity.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...er/082106.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...ter/index.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...viscosity.html
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...er/082106.html
Trending Topics
05-11-2009, 08:52 PM
#10
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I ordered 20W50 VR1 for my next oil change (still staying non-synthetic as from day 1)
My pressure at hot idle and WOT is a tad low IMO and I know the switch in weight will put me in an oil-pressure comfort zone
Thank you to everyone for your replies and information
Christopher
My pressure at hot idle and WOT is a tad low IMO and I know the switch in weight will put me in an oil-pressure comfort zone
Thank you to everyone for your replies and information
Christopher
I live near you and have only driven my built cars as daily drivers. I'm on my 4th nicely modded engine. Nicley modded to me meaning, fully forged, 11.3:1 cr, 450-500 RWHP daily drivers. This is my 2nd LSx. My first was a 383ci that I put 60,000 miles on from 1998 to 2002, I sold it and it was driven for at least another 50,000 that I know of, without a single issue. My current LPE 427ci just turned 116,000 miles and is still running like the day I first started it. It has never once had an internal issue and still runs 100% silent, strong and perfectly. Still being able to fry the tire at 50mph is pretty good to me. Its a maintenance free engine. My other 2 engines were both SBC 427's. One made it to 60,000 miles and I sold that one and the other made 140,000 after I sold that one which the guy pulled out and rebuilt.
All of my engines get 20w50 with an A/C Delco or Purolator filter. 3,000 mile changes.
My current LS6 427ci with 116,000 miles shows 58psi on start-up and will never ever drop below 40-41psi, no matter how I drive it and no matter how hot it gets outside. The only way it will go below 40-41psi is if I'm in traffic, with my A/C cranking, in 90* weather. Then it will drop to about 25-30psi "at idle", as soon as I start moving it goes right back up to 40psi under throttle.
The trick, IN MY OPINION, and its what I have always done for the past 20 years with my built cars and with my regular cars, that OTHER people do not do.
Every time I change my oil, which is always at 3,000 miles......I drain the oil down to about 2 quarts remaining, then I add 2 quarts of engine flush. I try to get all of the old oil out and it almost does doing it that way.
To each his own....but I think synthetic oils and super-duper special filters are the most ridiculous things out there. Its not like we have engines that are anything exotic or special in any way, they are the most basic of piston engines. All they need is the most basic of oils. 4 built engines and 5 different cars over the past 20 years proves that beyond all doubt. My engines never die or have trouble in any way.
20w50 Castrol GTX
All of my engines get 20w50 with an A/C Delco or Purolator filter. 3,000 mile changes.
My current LS6 427ci with 116,000 miles shows 58psi on start-up and will never ever drop below 40-41psi, no matter how I drive it and no matter how hot it gets outside. The only way it will go below 40-41psi is if I'm in traffic, with my A/C cranking, in 90* weather. Then it will drop to about 25-30psi "at idle", as soon as I start moving it goes right back up to 40psi under throttle.
The trick, IN MY OPINION, and its what I have always done for the past 20 years with my built cars and with my regular cars, that OTHER people do not do.
Every time I change my oil, which is always at 3,000 miles......I drain the oil down to about 2 quarts remaining, then I add 2 quarts of engine flush. I try to get all of the old oil out and it almost does doing it that way.
To each his own....but I think synthetic oils and super-duper special filters are the most ridiculous things out there. Its not like we have engines that are anything exotic or special in any way, they are the most basic of piston engines. All they need is the most basic of oils. 4 built engines and 5 different cars over the past 20 years proves that beyond all doubt. My engines never die or have trouble in any way.
20w50 Castrol GTX
05-11-2009, 10:54 PM
#11
I ordered 20W50 VR1 for my next oil change (still staying non-synthetic as from day 1)
My pressure at hot idle and WOT is a tad low IMO and I know the switch in weight will put me in an oil-pressure comfort zone
Thank you to everyone for your replies and information
Christopher
My pressure at hot idle and WOT is a tad low IMO and I know the switch in weight will put me in an oil-pressure comfort zone
Thank you to everyone for your replies and information
Christopher
05-12-2009, 03:56 AM
#12
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you say your pressure is a tad low, what exactly is it? I'm running the same oil as you with a brand new motor. And after driving around a good while my hot idle is right at 40 or even a touch below. I have always use a shimmer oil pump and had around 45 when warm. I went with a stock ls6 non ported and non shimmed pump this time.
05-12-2009, 05:02 PM
#15
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had a number of issues when I installed the new motor including buying a second brand new TSP ported LS6 oil pump.
My cold idle at start-up is ~70ish and stays above 55 at idle until operating temp is reached.
My cold idle at start-up is ~70ish and stays above 55 at idle until operating temp is reached.
05-13-2009, 05:36 AM
#17
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You can search my previous threads. I went through the o-ring situation when the shop installed the 1st AND 2nd oil pump; each time they told me the ring was fine.
If my pressure isn't 60 or greater at WOT after the 20W50; I'll have them pull the pump again
If my pressure isn't 60 or greater at WOT after the 20W50; I'll have them pull the pump again
05-13-2009, 08:10 PM
#19
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I punched it and my WOT is a hair shy of 60; right around ~59 when I took it to 5K rpm's. My motor was built for a shot of nitrous with appropriate tolerances as well.
I thought my WOT pressure might be a bit higher considering what my idle and part-throttle pressure is but I have greater peace of mind with ~59 as opposed to ~45-50 before
05-13-2009, 08:15 PM
#20
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2000 NBM SS - LS2 402 w/a MS3 cam and Stage 1 243's. Fast 92/92, Pacesetter LT's, Catted Y-pipe, MagnaFlow Cat-back, Monster Stage 3 Clutch, Built T-56, 12-bolt w/ 3.73's, LCA's, PHB, TA, SFC's, BMR Springs and C5 Brakes. 11.26 w/a 1.65 60' @ 123 mph 501/478 Tuned by CMS.
I loved all my TSP MS series camshafts . . . they all performed well on my old 346