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Spun rod bearing, what now?

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Old 06-14-2009, 01:27 AM
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Default Spun rod bearing, what now?

Pretty sure i spun a rod bearing at the track, it is tapping and squeaking inside the engine.

What do I do now? It was torquer v3, full boltons, HSW wet 150 kit.


So i think i pretty much need my shortblock rebuilt completely right?

Should i rebuild it with forged internals, should i just forget it and change engines to something else?

I dont have a lot of money to throw at this so lets keep it cheap.

If i rebuild it, i want it to have more horsepower N/A and be able to handle the spray without blowin up like this one.
Old 06-14-2009, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
Pretty sure i spun a rod bearing at the track, it is tapping and squeaking inside the engine.

What do I do now? It was torquer v3, full boltons, HSW wet 150 kit.


So i think i pretty much need my shortblock rebuilt completely right?

Should i rebuild it with forged internals, should i just forget it and change engines to something else?

I dont have a lot of money to throw at this so lets keep it cheap.

If i rebuild it, i want it to have more horsepower N/A and be able to handle the spray without blowin up like this one.
Sorry to tell u this but u need a new engine the ls2 gto's are easy to find or a lq9
Old 06-14-2009, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
I dont have a lot of money to throw at this so lets keep it cheap.
Stock Low-mileage LS2 with stock LS3 heads. Keep your cam. That's probably the cheapest way to get 420+ rwhp.
Old 06-14-2009, 12:14 PM
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Any tips to finding a nice ls2, ls3, or other good gen 4 engine to work with? Anyone got a lead on anything in or near SE michigan? Do you guys think my heads and cam are still good enough to reuse?
Old 06-14-2009, 03:08 PM
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the best option IMO is to polish the crank and go forged pistons and rods and spray 200-250 shot, it won't make any more power N/A but you could get a nice set of heads down the road and it'll be one of the cheapest routes.
Old 06-14-2009, 08:34 PM
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i would have your crank ground, put new bearings in it, and re-ring it and call it good. thats my .02
Old 06-14-2009, 09:20 PM
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cheap blocks and stuff never end up cheap. I just bought a new iron 408 complete with double roller chain and lifters for 2200. thought i got a steal, which i did but instead of building my h/c camaro for 3200 i will build a 408 for 7000. then again the 346, good parts, the 408, best parts. i am on a strict budget being that i am 20. my block is just sitting there rusting lol. i would do like novaflash said and just rebuild and forge the stock, cheap and sturdy. you will lose N/a depending on what you buy because of the weight difference in parts. but you can make it spray fat, like me with my 408 at least a 200 shot, i will take mine to a progressive 300.
Old 06-17-2009, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
Pretty sure i spun a rod bearing at the track, it is tapping and squeaking inside the engine.

What do I do now? It was torquer v3, full boltons, HSW wet 150 kit.


So i think i pretty much need my shortblock rebuilt completely right?

Should i rebuild it with forged internals, should i just forget it and change engines to something else?

I dont have a lot of money to throw at this so lets keep it cheap.

If i rebuild it, i want it to have more horsepower N/A and be able to handle the spray without blowin up like this one.
Drain your oil and what does it look like? Was your car getting slower as the day went on? If you see a lot of fine silver metallic flakes in the oil then that would be a good indication of a bearing went out.
Old 06-17-2009, 09:25 PM
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i went ahead and got the mahlf forged pistons/rods and clevitte 77 bearrings and hellfire rings ...just had a solid rebuilt done..then added ported&polished 241s..now need to get a full on dyno tune..but a forged engine will take more abuse and you can always save for something else...
Old 06-18-2009, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
Pretty sure i spun a rod bearing at the track, it is tapping and squeaking inside the engine.

What do I do now? It was torquer v3, full boltons, HSW wet 150 kit.


So i think i pretty much need my shortblock rebuilt completely right?

Should i rebuild it with forged internals, should i just forget it and change engines to something else?

I dont have a lot of money to throw at this so lets keep it cheap.

If i rebuild it, i want it to have more horsepower N/A and be able to handle the spray without blowin up like this one.
I hate to say it but it sounds like one of your pistons took a dump..... Friend of mine had the same thing happen. Engine would run but it had a slight ticking and would squeak a little. Took it apart and the #5 piston had broke...
Old 06-18-2009, 01:10 PM
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Whatever you do make sure you upgrade your rod bolts!!! That is what caused your motor to pop i bet. Between spinning it out pretty high with that cam and having the bottle causes stretch in the stock bolts and i bet that is what caused it to spin.
Old 06-18-2009, 01:33 PM
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I tore it apart, heads and pistons seem alright, one of the pistons has no carbon on one edge and is slightly loose. I am pretty sure its the bearing, have to get an engine stand to flip it over.
Old 06-30-2009, 04:14 PM
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when it's repaired be sure and run 1 extra quart of oil in it. tbss have a problem with oil getting away from the sump and causing bearings to spin. the pan is the real problem. moroso is making a pan for them with a baffle to stop the oil from running back away from the sump. if you need more info contact billy at rpm (ryans performance machine) in nc or sc. he helped develop the pan and has seen lots of tbss engine failures.
Old 06-30-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by pHEnomIC
I tore it apart, heads and pistons seem alright, one of the pistons has no carbon on one edge and is slightly loose. I am pretty sure its the bearing, have to get an engine stand to flip it over.

You pulled a head off, and a piston is loose? Sounds like you have more problems than a spun bearing. May have a ring/piston/cylinder problem.
What way loose?
Old 06-30-2009, 07:31 PM
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You won't really know what to do until you get the engine out and completely disassembled and determine what the real problem is. Does it have any oil pressure? Usually with a spun bearing your oil pressures drops to nothing.



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