Used Engine prep - L92 - Advice?
#1
Used Engine prep - L92 - Advice?
I have a used L92 that I should be swapping into my RX7 soon. Still rounding up parts but real close. However, before I drop iton the car I want to go through it within reason. I'm a bit short on time and money <I know I know>
But I want to make sure and hit the high points.
Swapping LS1 accessories and oil pan on, a 3 bolt cam, Lingenfelter gear and damper. LS2 style cover with cam sensor. Planning on using the LS3 intake assembly.
What should I inspect and or replace while it's on the stand?
-Pull the heads and inspect bores and pistons. Change the head gaskets out for a thinner one to gain a touch of compression?
-pull mains or rod caps to check bearings? Re-use rod bolts or replace? Don't touch any of it?
-inspect oil pump action and DIY port the housing? Use a different pump?
-Attempt to clean up exhaust ports some? DIY head port cleanup?
-Replace rod and main bearings anyway or don't get stuck on "might as well?"
-
But I want to make sure and hit the high points.
Swapping LS1 accessories and oil pan on, a 3 bolt cam, Lingenfelter gear and damper. LS2 style cover with cam sensor. Planning on using the LS3 intake assembly.
What should I inspect and or replace while it's on the stand?
-Pull the heads and inspect bores and pistons. Change the head gaskets out for a thinner one to gain a touch of compression?
-pull mains or rod caps to check bearings? Re-use rod bolts or replace? Don't touch any of it?
-inspect oil pump action and DIY port the housing? Use a different pump?
-Attempt to clean up exhaust ports some? DIY head port cleanup?
-Replace rod and main bearings anyway or don't get stuck on "might as well?"
-
#2
FormerVendor
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I have a used L92 that I should be swapping into my RX7 soon. Still rounding up parts but real close. However, before I drop iton the car I want to go through it within reason. I'm a bit short on time and money <I know I know>
But I want to make sure and hit the high points.
Swapping LS1 accessories and oil pan on, a 3 bolt cam, Lingenfelter gear and damper. LS2 style cover with cam sensor. Planning on using the LS3 intake assembly.
What should I inspect and or replace while it's on the stand?
-Pull the heads and inspect bores and pistons. Change the head gaskets out for a thinner one to gain a touch of compression?
-pull mains or rod caps to check bearings? Re-use rod bolts or replace? Don't touch any of it?
-inspect oil pump action and DIY port the housing? Use a different pump?
-Attempt to clean up exhaust ports some? DIY head port cleanup?
-Replace rod and main bearings anyway or don't get stuck on "might as well?"
-
But I want to make sure and hit the high points.
Swapping LS1 accessories and oil pan on, a 3 bolt cam, Lingenfelter gear and damper. LS2 style cover with cam sensor. Planning on using the LS3 intake assembly.
What should I inspect and or replace while it's on the stand?
-Pull the heads and inspect bores and pistons. Change the head gaskets out for a thinner one to gain a touch of compression?
-pull mains or rod caps to check bearings? Re-use rod bolts or replace? Don't touch any of it?
-inspect oil pump action and DIY port the housing? Use a different pump?
-Attempt to clean up exhaust ports some? DIY head port cleanup?
-Replace rod and main bearings anyway or don't get stuck on "might as well?"
-
If you replace rod bolts, gonna have to resize teh rods, as you ARE gonna put ARP in if you do that right? So, now you are looking at a bottom end R&R at that point. So, unless you plan on getting serious, I say let it eat.
You could replace oil pumpp if you wanted to and port the pump, not a bad idea. I would not touch the heads at this point either. (well, might think ARP head bolts at this time, but I still say let it eat)
And again, would not touch mains and rods, unless you find problems in the oil or compression/leak down OR if you plan on adding preformance parts.
Also, I can get you in touch with one of my customers who did a swap of this sort with a Nissan 240 if you want me to.
#3
I appreciate the reply!
The engine came out of an Escalade, I didn't remove it personally and don't know much about the history. I was told the person was trustworthy and asked for contact info but then the seller deployed I guess.
Oil looked good, didn't have a filter to inspect. But the inside of the pan was very clean as was the rotating assembly and crank case. I could probably do a compression test on the stand once I install the cam.
I heard that the oil pump and rod bolts in these engines are actually pretty reliable?
I'm also thinking I might want to find a lift to use for a day to do the swap.
I looked into the 240 swap, it's pretty different than the RX7. Thanks for the gesture.
The engine came out of an Escalade, I didn't remove it personally and don't know much about the history. I was told the person was trustworthy and asked for contact info but then the seller deployed I guess.
Oil looked good, didn't have a filter to inspect. But the inside of the pan was very clean as was the rotating assembly and crank case. I could probably do a compression test on the stand once I install the cam.
I heard that the oil pump and rod bolts in these engines are actually pretty reliable?
I'm also thinking I might want to find a lift to use for a day to do the swap.
I looked into the 240 swap, it's pretty different than the RX7. Thanks for the gesture.
#4
FormerVendor
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I appreciate the reply!
The engine came out of an Escalade, I didn't remove it personally and don't know much about the history. I was told the person was trustworthy and asked for contact info but then the seller deployed I guess.
Oil looked good, didn't have a filter to inspect. But the inside of the pan was very clean as was the rotating assembly and crank case. I could probably do a compression test on the stand once I install the cam.
I heard that the oil pump and rod bolts in these engines are actually pretty reliable?
I'm also thinking I might want to find a lift to use for a day to do the swap.
I looked into the 240 swap, it's pretty different than the RX7. Thanks for the gesture.
The engine came out of an Escalade, I didn't remove it personally and don't know much about the history. I was told the person was trustworthy and asked for contact info but then the seller deployed I guess.
Oil looked good, didn't have a filter to inspect. But the inside of the pan was very clean as was the rotating assembly and crank case. I could probably do a compression test on the stand once I install the cam.
I heard that the oil pump and rod bolts in these engines are actually pretty reliable?
I'm also thinking I might want to find a lift to use for a day to do the swap.
I looked into the 240 swap, it's pretty different than the RX7. Thanks for the gesture.
Why was teh motor yanked then? Was it wrecked? If pan looked good (no sludge or crap) and if you pull a valve cover and tops of cylinder heads look nice and pretty and valley cover removed and looks nice and clean, then I say let it eat.
OIl pumps and rod bolts are reliable yes, and that is why I say let it eat, especially for a stock motor.
Well, I know teh 240 and RX7 swap are gonna be different, but they are gonna be similar, as well, is why I mentioned it.
Good luck with teh swap, let us know how it turns out.
#6
Why was teh motor yanked then? Was it wrecked? If pan looked good (no sludge or crap) and if you pull a valve cover and tops of cylinder heads look nice and pretty and valley cover removed and looks nice and clean, then I say let it eat.
OIl pumps and rod bolts are reliable yes, and that is why I say let it eat, especially for a stock motor.
Well, I know teh 240 and RX7 swap are gonna be different, but they are gonna be similar, as well, is why I mentioned it.
Good luck with teh swap, let us know how it turns out.
OIl pumps and rod bolts are reliable yes, and that is why I say let it eat, especially for a stock motor.
Well, I know teh 240 and RX7 swap are gonna be different, but they are gonna be similar, as well, is why I mentioned it.
Good luck with teh swap, let us know how it turns out.
Yeah, the engine was pretty under the valve covers and valley pan too. I don't know why it was yanked but I'm guessing wreck.
Good advice! And you're right about the similar swap too. Lots of good info there!
#7
Hahaha, I can't afford the tires! No this is a low mile 1990 GXL. I needed a fun beater to drive to work 50 miles round trip. The drive just isn't scary enough. I need 500hp in a 3000 lb car to get there. hahaha
I'm actually going to keep it pretty bland looking. Just lower it and put some cheap rims on it.
These projects $50 you to death yall!