New Comp Cam Short travel Lifters installed
09-13-2009, 02:42 PM
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New Comp Cam Short travel Lifters installed Dont know if anyone here has installed this lifters, but i Just finished installing a set in my car.
So things you will need to know
These are not a straght replacedment for stock lifters. There is no proload in this lifters, you will need adjustable rockers. Or you can do like I did and get custom pushrods, (need a pushrod checker)
when i installed the lifters, I found that with the stock (7.400 pushrods) the rocker would open the valves
I ended up getting a custom pushrod from Mandon pushrods (7.280) that was just right. But found out that I still had to shim the rocker on one side of my rockers (.020) to keep for opening the valves.
Well after all of this work got the Valvetrain straght
car starts and Revs Very fast.
Havent drove the car yet, been raining for 4 days here the streets way to wet
I have a few pictures of the New lifters i'll try to get them up soon.
So things you will need to know
These are not a straght replacedment for stock lifters. There is no proload in this lifters, you will need adjustable rockers. Or you can do like I did and get custom pushrods, (need a pushrod checker)
when i installed the lifters, I found that with the stock (7.400 pushrods) the rocker would open the valves
I ended up getting a custom pushrod from Mandon pushrods (7.280) that was just right. But found out that I still had to shim the rocker on one side of my rockers (.020) to keep for opening the valves.
Well after all of this work got the Valvetrain straght
car starts and Revs Very fast.
Havent drove the car yet, been raining for 4 days here the streets way to wet
I have a few pictures of the New lifters i'll try to get them up soon.
09-15-2009, 04:21 PM
#6
We have a set of the 15956 crossbar lifters here we're going to try. Definitely not for the average installer, but with careful attention they can be setup to work awesome!!
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Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
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Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
09-15-2009, 06:45 PM
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So cant want get some miles on the trans, cam and lifters
looking for some 10's on the motor and alittle more MPH
not going back on a dyno though had bad experience, over heated my trans
so to the track ill bring it to see how it dose
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09-15-2009, 10:01 PM
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In other words, you spent $500.00 on a set of lifters "solid lifters" that could have been purchased for hundreds less? Or you could have stock hydraulic lifters shimmed for only .005" worth of hydraulic operation for hundreds less still?
09-15-2009, 10:37 PM
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This are not a solid lifter it's a hydraulic lifter that is suppost to help with high RPM like a solid lifter
this are not close to a stock lifter that has been shimmed.
So if you were paying attention to the topic you would have notice that?
09-16-2009, 11:40 PM
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You're correct and will see....
You're correct again as they are not solid lifters and are hydraulic. They are hyd lifters with a slightly tweaked bleed off from their counter part comp-r lifter. The comp-r's are very sensitive to preload and like about .020" of it at most. What you now own are .010-zero preload lifters. Depending on the cam profile, valve springs, and oil pressure per rpm, there comes a time early on in the rpm range that the hydraulic workings of the lifter are no longer applicable. At this time the lifter is a solid lifter or a regular shimmed hydraulic lifter. What little bit of actual "hydraulics" is left in the lifter is for quiet idle at zero lash and nothing more.
In all actuality, it is the exact same thing.
I don't mean to hurt your feelings or anything but you're just another victim of marketing due to your own ignorance. Don't take the word "ignorance" as an insult as most do. It is meant as face value as per definition of "not knowing".
Originally Posted by 1fastxz
This are not a solid lifter it's a hydraulic lifter that is suppost to help with high RPM like a solid lifter
Originally Posted by 1fastxz
this are not close to a stock lifter that has been shimmed.
Originally Posted by 1fastxz
So if you were paying attention to the topic you would have notice that?
09-17-2009, 12:49 AM
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You're correct and will see....
You're correct again as they are not solid lifters and are hydraulic. They are hyd lifters with a slightly tweaked bleed off from their counter part comp-r lifter. The comp-r's are very sensitive to preload and like about .020" of it at most. What you now own are .010-zero preload lifters. Depending on the cam profile, valve springs, and oil pressure per rpm, there comes a time early on in the rpm range that the hydraulic workings of the lifter are no longer applicable. At this time the lifter is a solid lifter or a regular shimmed hydraulic lifter. What little bit of actual "hydraulics" is left in the lifter is for quiet idle at zero lash and nothing more.
In all actuality, it is the exact same thing.
I don't mean to hurt your feelings or anything but you're just another victim of marketing due to your own ignorance. Don't take the word "ignorance" as an insult as most do. It is meant as face value as per definition of "not knowing".
You're correct again as they are not solid lifters and are hydraulic. They are hyd lifters with a slightly tweaked bleed off from their counter part comp-r lifter. The comp-r's are very sensitive to preload and like about .020" of it at most. What you now own are .010-zero preload lifters. Depending on the cam profile, valve springs, and oil pressure per rpm, there comes a time early on in the rpm range that the hydraulic workings of the lifter are no longer applicable. At this time the lifter is a solid lifter or a regular shimmed hydraulic lifter. What little bit of actual "hydraulics" is left in the lifter is for quiet idle at zero lash and nothing more.
In all actuality, it is the exact same thing.
I don't mean to hurt your feelings or anything but you're just another victim of marketing due to your own ignorance. Don't take the word "ignorance" as an insult as most do. It is meant as face value as per definition of "not knowing".
09-19-2009, 12:50 AM
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I'm an LS engine builder by trade. From some companies I get things to try out long before they hit the market. These NEW lifters were out and about 19 months ago.
I'm not knocking these lifters as if they were a lie. They work and work well but there are cheaper alternatives that work all the same.
09-19-2009, 07:29 AM
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The body is different and is so to accommodate the lifter design while still supplying the upper valve train with just enough oil to keep things lubricated. At specific rpm or valve spring pressure vs. rpm, the hydraulics of the lifter have done what they are designed to do. After this point, it's a solid lifter. A shimmed LS7 lifter is exactly the same thing with one exception. It allows more oil to be pumped through the pushrod whether it be a waste or not.
I'm an LS engine builder by trade. From some companies I get things to try out long before they hit the market. These NEW lifters were out and about 19 months ago.
I'm not knocking these lifters as if they were a lie. They work and work well but there are cheaper alternatives that work all the same.
I'm an LS engine builder by trade. From some companies I get things to try out long before they hit the market. These NEW lifters were out and about 19 months ago.
I'm not knocking these lifters as if they were a lie. They work and work well but there are cheaper alternatives that work all the same.
The thing that scares me most is he installed them with the only worry that the valves are not open when the rocker were tight ? by shimming one side and using a different length pushrod you have changed all you geometry and it needs to be checked just cause the valves dont open when the rockers are tight does'nt mean it right.
09-19-2009, 07:04 PM
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I agree at west tech we tested shimmed rockers nearly 15 years ago and it does work but its not an install for the average person. I think that why they didnt make something like this sooner because if someone has problems from apoor install they will be on the forums blaming the companies for bad parts.
The thing that scares me most is he installed them with the only worry that the valves are not open when the rocker were tight ? by shimming one side and using a different length pushrod you have changed all you geometry and it needs to be checked just cause the valves dont open when the rockers are tight does'nt mean it right.
The thing that scares me most is he installed them with the only worry that the valves are not open when the rocker were tight ? by shimming one side and using a different length pushrod you have changed all you geometry and it needs to be checked just cause the valves dont open when the rockers are tight does'nt mean it right.
all this was done by a engine builder that put my motor together, 1 1/2 years ago, and has alot of exprance with LS type motors
How would you address this issue?
09-20-2009, 11:59 AM
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The rocker tip and valve have to be at a 90* angle if they are not the valve will be side loaded and wear the guides out in 1000miles not to mention effective lift is lowered by the rocker arch being wrong at full lift. The rocker needs to ride in the center of the valve tip thru the complete range of motion. The correct way is to make adjustment according to your geometry at the valve and rocker intersect. Shimming the rocker and going to a shorter push rod do the same thing for clearance, but have two tottally different effects on geometry. As to how I would fix the problem would depend tottally on the measurement I made. I think jesel still has a good right up on there website about geometry because they recomend a certain process for there shaft rockers wich are virtually identical in operation to the ls.
My main point was after spend ing $500 on lifters and your time make sure it right. It sucks to have problems and its worth checking.
My main point was after spend ing $500 on lifters and your time make sure it right. It sucks to have problems and its worth checking.
09-20-2009, 06:56 PM
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The rocker tip and valve have to be at a 90* angle if they are not the valve will be side loaded and wear the guides out in 1000miles not to mention effective lift is lowered by the rocker arch being wrong at full lift. The rocker needs to ride in the center of the valve tip thru the complete range of motion. The correct way is to make adjustment according to your geometry at the valve and rocker intersect. Shimming the rocker and going to a shorter push rod do the same thing for clearance, but have two tottally different effects on geometry. As to how I would fix the problem would depend tottally on the measurement I made. I think jesel still has a good right up on there website about geometry because they recomend a certain process for there shaft rockers wich are virtually identical in operation to the ls.
My main point was after spend ing $500 on lifters and your time make sure it right. It sucks to have problems and its worth checking.
My main point was after spend ing $500 on lifters and your time make sure it right. It sucks to have problems and its worth checking.