elninetytwo

Hi guys, this is my first post, i'm building a L92 to put in an older street truck. The head installtion procedure seems very tight for oem bolts. I have built Northstars and I always put inserts in the head bolts on those. Do you guys prefer ARP bolts or studs with these aluminum blocks? It looks like ARP hardware doesn't crank down as much on the aluminum threads. What do you guys think? Thanks for any input.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

IMO studs are are always a +

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Clamping load is alot different from a TTY bolt to a standard bolt and 100% different on a stud. GM head bolts work well for quite a few applications. If you have more plans on diff heads or anything of the sort, or a turbo or possibly nitrous app, I would at least use the ARP head bolts. If you can justify the extra cost, then you can step up to the studs.

User_name

iTrader: (7)

How about a supercharged ls1 at max 8 psi? Im trying to decide if studs are really worth it. Thanks

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

If you're going to be pushing boost, and you can afford the studs, I'd say go for them. If you're on a budget though, the GM or ARP bolts will suit your purpose as well.

uphigh07

iTrader: (48)

at 8psi you will be fine with gm bolts i have ran on 10psi with no problems at all but will be getting studs when my d1sc gets maxed out here in about a month

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

If you budget can fit them, then at least the arp head bolts would be a good upgrade. I have seen quite a few guys go with better heads time after time with boosted setups, and if you change heads 2 times, then the arp then becomes nearly the same price as 2 hole sets of GM head bolts. If this is an engine that will be continually checked or refreshed, studs would be a good idea. They help alot with cyl head replacement. Fitment is a crucial issue as well. Some people will leave most of the studs in and put the head on under an Fbody cowl, then screw the rest in, but some people like the bolts for an ease of install.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Studs all the way.

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

is there any proof to ARP bolts or studs causing different ring wear patterns due to putting a different stress on the block from the TTY bolts?

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Ring Wear Patterns? More stress?

dimetweaker

iTrader: (1)

He is refering to information that I have read as well, stating that the load the studs place on the block will cause more deflection/ shifting in the material in the block than a standard bolt would, causing the sleeves to ever so slightly deform as well. I think I ran across this on LS1tech at some point, and it stated that the studs should be in place and torqued when machining the bores. Im not saying I do or do not buy into the theory, but I have seen it is all...

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Just because someone posts it on here, does not give it any sort of validity. Lol. From every article I have and have seen posted, the Torque plate should replicate that distortion therefore making it not a problem. And they increase the clamping load yes. As for wear rings.....i guess just cut it in half and count them like you would a tree?

Torque plate machining is commonplace nearly everywhere you find a quality machine shop. If it is not, find another machine shop.

printmanjackson

iTrader: (1)

Hey John, what I was referring to is using aftermarket bolts or studs on a factory block that has not had any machine work. Like just changing out a set of heads and using ARP fasteners when you put it back together. I read somewhere on here that people have noticed a different ring wear pattern on the cylinder walls.

Is this something to be conserned with?

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

Not at all. There have been so many people switch for numerous reasons, and no accounts of anything failing because of this (unless they didnt clean the holes out). I would not worry about this at all.