max1

iTrader: (12)

i know the proper way is to get pushrod checker.


but here's the setup
flat top pistons , 243 heads mill .030 , cam is .581 lift.

im hearing 7.4 should work,

is this correct.?

I've also got the pushrod checker, how exactly does the checker work? any links or info would be helpfull.

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

Maybe...maybe not. You answered your own question. Measure them.

max1

iTrader: (12)

the question is " how 2" measure them..

69LT1Bird

iTrader: (1)

From Shane at Thunder Racing.

The TDC method is NOT always accurate. Try the EO/IC method to check pushrod length. I have posted directions on this forum numerous times... Here it is again:

FWIW, EVERY cam install I have done using the LS7 lifter with a cam with greater than .600" lift (read smaller base circle) AND stock heads w/GM MLS gaskets has taken 7.425" pushrods for ~.050"-.060" preload. We measure lifter preload on each and every cam install we do. I have never had a lifter failure nor do we end up with the dreaded "sewing machine" noise.

Its very simple, If you change ANY of the following:
valve sizes, valve job, head milling, thinner/thicker head gaskets, decked block, cam with an altered base circle, etc... YOU MUST CHECK FOR PROPER PUSHROD LENGTH.

I have helped countless numbers of individuals with this process over the phone, via email, and PM's. I've posted the process on at least 3 occasions.

Here it is again in a nutshell:

1. Using the EO/IC method, get the lifter to the base circle of the cam.
2. Using a known length pushrod (7.400" is a good start with stock rockers) run the rocker arm bolt down to zero lash. This is easily done with your fingers "wiggling" the rocker, the point at which the "slack" is just gone is zero lash.
3. Set your torque wrench to 22 lb./ft. Tighten the rocker to full torque and count the number of turns it takes to get there. 1 full turn wtih a stock 8mm X 1.25 bolt is ~.047" preload as measured at the pushrod/rocker interface.
4. I normally shoot for 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 turns with stock type lifters like Comp 850's, LS1, LS7 etc.

For an example, if you use a 7.400" pushrod and come up with 3/4 of a turn, you will need at least .025" longer pushrod to get into range. If you end up with 2 1/4 turns, you will need one .025" shorter...

I might not know everything but I will tell you that this method has worked for me year after year cam swap after cam swap. We average 3 cam swaps a week here so you can do the math.

If you are not familiar with the EO/IC method for determining valve events in a 4 stroke engine, its very simple:
For a given cylinder as the Exhaust valve is Opening, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the cam and lash/preload should be checked for that intake valve.
For a given cylinder as the Intake valve is Closing, the exhaust lifter will be on the base circle of the cam and lash/preload should be checked for that exhaust valve.

THIS METHOD ALWAYS WORKS!!!

Check it using the above method and see where you are.

Thanks,
Shane

max1

iTrader: (12)

thanks.. shane - will do *

BennyB

iTrader: (12)

great post

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

This is assuming you have the Comp Cams adjustable pushrod, which at its shortest length is 6.800".

Each turn of the adjustable pushrod is 0.050". When fully closed, it is 6.800". This is pushrod "gauge length" so you can't measure it directly as the pushrod length is actually based on the length between the ball ends where the ball end measures 0.140" in diameter. Assuming you are using stock rockers or a non-adjustable rocker.

1. Open the adjustable pushrod to the same length as your stock pushrods
2. Close it down two turns
3. Put your rocker rail on the head
4. Make sure you cylinder (typically #1) is at top dead center on the firing stroke so both valves would be closed
5. Put the pushrod in place on the intake valve and make sure it is in the lifter cup
6. Install the rocker and snug down the bolt (don't need to torque, just make sure it is snug)
7. Lift rocker tip up and down, if it "ticks" the pushrod is too short. If you can't easily move the rocker the pushrod is too long.
8. You can try and adjust the pushrod in place but my fingers are too fat so I end up pulling the rocker and adjusting the pushrod length. Go either shorter or longer 1/2 turn and try again.
9. You are trying to get to the point where the lifter doesn't "tick tick" with the pushrod in place nor is the rocker snug. When you get the pushrod length such that you just barely get rid of the "tick tick", you have found "zero lash".
10. When you have found zero lash, carefully remove the rocker and pushrod without rotating the pushrod.
11. Tighten the pushrod until it is fully closed counting the turns as you go.

To figure out your pushrod length you do the following. Let’s assume it took 10-1/2 turns to close the pushrod down to its shortest length after you reached zero lash. Each turn is 0.050".

Your length is then: 6.800" (fully closed length) + 10.5 X 0.050" (number of turns times the length change per turn) = pushrod length minus preload. So for this case:

6.800 +10.5 X 0.050 = 7.325"

This is the length you measured to zero lash without any lifter preload. Now let’s say you want to have 0.075" lifter preload, you add that to the measured number and you end up with 7.400" pushrods.

Now repeat for the exhaust valve to verify the length. If you have something like Yella Terra's, it is the same procedure but you must snug down the rocker pair rather than the single rocker.

max1

iTrader: (12)

^^ THANKS*for that detailed EXplaination. now i have better understanding , how 2 measure for correct pushrod lenght..

collins

Just the info I needed! Thanks fellas

collins

I want a second opinion here... The math doesn't seem to want to make sense to me. I started with a 7.400 pushrod, and from zero lash it took 1.5 turn to finish at 22 lb ft. What length pushrod would I need? And why isn't the formula making sense me?!? Lol maybe it's because I just woke up.

93batmobile

iTrader: (1)

i think it makes sense... maybe.

I just went out and checked mine and I got 2.5 turns before i got to 22 ft./lbs so that means i am 3/4 of a turn too far but a full turn would be from right in the middle of the range. So according to this I need a pushrod that is .05" shorter. Heads and cam are in the sig, and I have 7.4" pushrods because this is what was recommended cuz i didnt have time to check then order. Does this sound even close? lol

93batmobile

iTrader: (1)

wait i got her backwards

Krom

You want one that's .045-.050 shorter than the ones you have to put you in the middle of the range in Shane's post