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Car runs rough and very rich after cam swap ??

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Old 08-23-2011, 10:06 AM
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Default Car runs rough and very rich after cam swap ??

Had a lifter go bad and it messed up a cam lobe so I had a shop install a new cam (exact same grind) and a new set of lifters. After getting it all back together the car tries to idle about 250 rpms lower than before and runs extemely rich. while cruising about 40mph it seems to surge a little bit and once I went WOT the afr went to 10:1 and it fell flat on its face..
I brought it back home and double checked all the vacuum lines, took the intake back off to make sure one of the intake seals wasnt pitched and double checked all the rocker arms to make sure they were TQed correctly..
I am no engine mechanic so have no idea what could be wrong..
I wouldnt think the tuning would be that much different since nothing changed but I tried to lean it out a bit and that made no difference.

My guesses would be cam gear may be off a tooth (but I dont know if the above stated signs would coralate to this)
A ground missing or off somewhere, (I know the ground on the passenger head front and drivers head rear are attached)

Anyone have any other ideas ?
Old 08-23-2011, 10:37 AM
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Did the installer take the time to degree both cams?
Old 08-23-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ShoddyHog
Did the installer take the time to degree both cams?
I am no engine person and Im not 100% sure on that answer.
Seems as though there is a vacuum leak of some sort because the brakes dont work for crap now either..
Could a cam not being put in correctly make the car act like it has a vacuum leak
Old 08-23-2011, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by slowgoat
I am no engine person and Im not 100% sure on that answer.
Seems as though there is a vacuum leak of some sort because the brakes dont work for crap now either..
Could a cam not being put in correctly make the car act like it has a vacuum leak
What do you meant that they "don'w work for crap?" Just don't stop, very stiff, mushy pedal?

Can't answer your question for sure. My point was going to be if neither of the cams were degreed, perhaps you have it tuned to one cam that was dead on, and the other that wasn't.

With the high idle, however, it sure sounds like a vacuum leak. Do all of your A/C controls work? Are you sure you got the brake booster line connected securely? Since you already took the intake back off and reinstalled it, that probably isn't it though. Once I could see...but not getting it on right twice?

Good luck!
Old 08-23-2011, 12:17 PM
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Brake peddle is hard and stops the car very slowly, control panel works fine inside the car. I know the cam was put in correctly the first time.
Ultimately could the cam being off cause the issues Im experiencing.
The car is in open loop SD and I had to take almost 30* out of the VE table to get it to idle close to 14.7:1

Also the car idles lower than commanded not higher
Old 08-23-2011, 08:28 PM
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Did you check any of the valves and make sure none were damaged? Do a compression test.
Old 08-23-2011, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by slowgoat
I am no engine person and Im not 100% sure on that answer.
Seems as though there is a vacuum leak of some sort because the brakes dont work for crap now either..
Could a cam not being put in correctly make the car act like it has a vacuum leak
Put a vacuum gauge on it, you need 14" or better to run power brakes. If it was OK before the cam swap, likely a line somewhere didn't get reconnected and you have a vacuum leak.
Old 08-24-2011, 10:24 AM
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Compression test showed me an average of 140psi a cylinder. Thats between 50 and 60psi believe what it should be.
I would assume the shop has the cam degreed way off
Old 08-28-2011, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by slowgoat
Compression test showed me an average of 140psi a cylinder. Thats between 50 and 60psi believe what it should be.
I would assume the shop has the cam degreed way off
I can't answer that, but as I run it through my head, I'd consider that a good possibility. Maybe someone who's actually seen the results of the cam being way off on the grind or maybe even having it a tooth off can confirm for you.

I just did a compression check on my car this morning...190 +- 2 psi on all cylinders, so yeah...something is for sure wrong with yours.



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