jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Looking for some advise as to how much clearance I need between the #5 main cap and the reluctor wheel. I have 0.020" runout and the min clearance I get with feeler gauge is 0.011". This is a brand new LS3 block with a K1 crank. My OCD is getting the best of me on this one.

rsz288

What about with the crank pushed back hard against the thrust bearing ?

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

This was checked with crank pushed back. Crank end play is 0.004"

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know what their spec is? Any help would be great so I can proceed or not. It is proving very difficult to get in contact with the Houston builder. I am not just the only one.

Jontall

They are all the same, so use these specs: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...lq4-specs.html

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

I see that max reluctor ring runout is 0.028". I do not see clearance between reluctor ring and #5 main cap. Am I missing this?

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Prolly just means it's not a concern...

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Awesome, that is what I am hoping for.

trxman

I have the same problem with my build. K1 4.000 inch stock crank. K1 just puts the crank in a box with out anything around it and the reluctor gets smashed in shipping. I only had .016 thou runout but im pulling it back off cause GM wants nothing over .010 runout. K1 sent me a brand new wheel in the bag. I really dont want it throwing a crank sensor code. If I was at .020 I would deffinatly change it out.

trxman

It also ran into my number 8 piston a little.

John

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

First engine I build a few years back with a K1 was definitely screwed up from shipping. Different builder back then, they fixed it and K1 paid. New builder is not working with me. I check this crank but was not able to tell until it was capped down and I could spin it. Builder didn't say anything about it but then again they didn't machine a key way in my crank snout (told them I was spinning a blower). Had to take it back for that. A month later I get it back and now I find this! What else did they not check

I am going to take the crank out this weekend. Does anyone have a goodson reluctor ring alignment tool I can borrow?

trxman

I marked the wheel to the crank counter weight really well in a few different spots and matched them to the new wheel and everything lined up great. Theres also a thread here about clocking the wheel to two flywheel bolts. Goodson tool would be nice though.

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

Took the crank out and the wheel was tig welded to the crank. Also, I noticed some bluing on some other areas almost like someone tried to straighten it. Anyway, it's off now and I have a new one which is a pain in the **** to get on. It won't just slide on when heated to 450F.

trxman

if it doesnt just drop on at 450 then you have a bur on the wheel or crank or its not really at 450.

jobe_ls1

iTrader: (9)

I tried sanding the ID of the wheel to make it smooth as possible and then heated in the oven at 475. I managed to screw that up. 2nd wheel attempt was made sanding more and using a propane torch. It got about half way on then cooled down and seized. Screwed up two wheels most likely the interference fit was greater than 0.007".

The crank is at LME now to be done professionally. Also got to check out their engine dyno for the first time