LS3 block + LS3 pistons + 5.3 crank and rods = LS3?
12-15-2011, 03:36 PM
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LS3 block + LS3 pistons + 5.3 crank and rods = LS3? I have a 2005 aluminum 5.3 with 30k miles that has water damage in the bores. Being a 2005 model it has the floating pin ‘beefy’ rods yet is still Gen III 24x etc. I’ve considered punching it out to 5.7 but it seems too risky since no one can give a definitive answer on whether or not it is safe to do. But the rotating parts in this engine are extremely clean.
I can get a LS3 block for $1600 shipped to my door, and I can get take out stock LS3 pistons. Tell me why I shouldn’t use my 5.3 rods and crank to build an LS3 short block? I’ll be using it with Gen III electronics in a road race built 3rd gen Camaro.
Stuff I’ll need from Machine Shop
-Balancing: The 5.3 crank will need balanced for the heavier slugs – I assume they’ll have to add weight. How expensive is it to add Mallory?
-Pistons installed to rods, or I could do this at home since they are floating but it’d be nice to have a tool for it
-Cam bearings will need installed by machine shop.
Parts I have:
-5.3 crank and floating pin rods
-oil pump, 2x timing gear, and rear cover from my low mile 5.3.
-cathedral port 799 heads with some porting and chamber work. Compression will be high, I figure 11.2-11.3. Is this too high for 93 octane?
-the rest of the top end from an LS1
-224/224 0.588/0.588 112 Comp Cam, push rods, and 1518’s but considering something bigger
-New LS2 timing chain
-LS1 balancer but considering investing in a ATI or similar
Additional Parts needed:
-water and oil plugs for the bare block
-New rod and main bearings
-new GM rod bolts? Or is that only a Gen III thing?
-head gaskets
-Gen IV front cover and cam sensor
-Gen IV valley cover to block off DOD ports
-extension harnesses for knock and cam sensors
-12588670 LS2/LS3 Black Timing Chain Tensioner
It’s looking like I’ll have $2200 into the short block and ~$200 for used covers + wiring extensions.
Bad or good idea? What am I forgetting? If anyone else has done this here please refer me to the thread.
Thanks!
I can get a LS3 block for $1600 shipped to my door, and I can get take out stock LS3 pistons. Tell me why I shouldn’t use my 5.3 rods and crank to build an LS3 short block? I’ll be using it with Gen III electronics in a road race built 3rd gen Camaro.
Stuff I’ll need from Machine Shop
-Balancing: The 5.3 crank will need balanced for the heavier slugs – I assume they’ll have to add weight. How expensive is it to add Mallory?
-Pistons installed to rods, or I could do this at home since they are floating but it’d be nice to have a tool for it
-Cam bearings will need installed by machine shop.
Parts I have:
-5.3 crank and floating pin rods
-oil pump, 2x timing gear, and rear cover from my low mile 5.3.
-cathedral port 799 heads with some porting and chamber work. Compression will be high, I figure 11.2-11.3. Is this too high for 93 octane?
-the rest of the top end from an LS1
-224/224 0.588/0.588 112 Comp Cam, push rods, and 1518’s but considering something bigger
-New LS2 timing chain
-LS1 balancer but considering investing in a ATI or similar
Additional Parts needed:
-water and oil plugs for the bare block
-New rod and main bearings
-new GM rod bolts? Or is that only a Gen III thing?
-head gaskets
-Gen IV front cover and cam sensor
-Gen IV valley cover to block off DOD ports
-extension harnesses for knock and cam sensors
-12588670 LS2/LS3 Black Timing Chain Tensioner
It’s looking like I’ll have $2200 into the short block and ~$200 for used covers + wiring extensions.
Bad or good idea? What am I forgetting? If anyone else has done this here please refer me to the thread.
Thanks!
Last edited by StanIROCZ; 12-15-2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: added bold
12-15-2011, 04:18 PM
#3
Have the machine shop pin fit the rods and pistons. I measured about .0005" on mine, and IMO, that is too tight. I ended up honing them to about .001".
12-15-2011, 04:30 PM
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Everything else go ok with that build? Was it a new block?
12-15-2011, 09:03 PM
#6
If you're buying the LS3 shortblock already assembled, then why are you taking it all apart and putting in the different parts? What's wrong with the LS3 rotating assembly? Are you getting just the block? Are you getting the shortblock with busted rotating assembly?
12-15-2011, 09:06 PM
#7
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I'm buying a bare LS3 block.
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12-15-2011, 09:11 PM
#8
I have a 2005 aluminum 5.3 with 30k miles that has water damage in the bores. Being a 2005 model it has the floating pin ‘beefy’ rods yet is still Gen III 24x etc. I’ve considered punching it out to 5.7 but it seems too risky since no one can give a definitive answer on whether or not it is safe to do. But the rotating parts in this engine are extremely clean.
I can get a LS3 block for $1600 shipped to my door, and I can get take out stock LS3 pistons. Tell me why I shouldn’t use my 5.3 rods and crank to build an LS3 short block? I’ll be using it with Gen III electronics in a road race built 3rd gen Camaro.
Stuff I’ll need from Machine Shop
-Balancing: The 5.3 crank will need balanced for the heavier slugs – I assume they’ll have to add weight. How expensive is it to add Mallory?
-Pistons installed to rods, or I could do this at home since they are floating but it’d be nice to have a tool for it
-Cam bearings will need installed by machine shop.
Parts I have:
-5.3 crank and floating pin rods
-oil pump, 2x timing gear, and rear cover from my low mile 5.3.
-cathedral port 799 heads with some porting and chamber work. Compression will be high, I figure 11.2-11.3. Is this too high for 93 octane?
-the rest of the top end from an LS1
-224/224 0.588/0.588 112 Comp Cam, push rods, and 1518’s but considering something bigger
-New LS2 timing chain
-LS1 balancer but considering investing in a ATI or similar
Additional Parts needed:
-water and oil plugs for the bare block
-New rod and main bearings
-new GM rod bolts? Or is that only a Gen III thing?
-head gaskets
-Gen IV front cover and cam sensor
-Gen IV valley cover to block off DOD ports
-extension harnesses for knock and cam sensors
-12588670 LS2/LS3 Black Timing Chain Tensioner
It’s looking like I’ll have $2200 into the short block and ~$200 for used covers + wiring extensions.
Bad or good idea? What am I forgetting? If anyone else has done this here please refer me to the thread.
Thanks!
I can get a LS3 block for $1600 shipped to my door, and I can get take out stock LS3 pistons. Tell me why I shouldn’t use my 5.3 rods and crank to build an LS3 short block? I’ll be using it with Gen III electronics in a road race built 3rd gen Camaro.
Stuff I’ll need from Machine Shop
-Balancing: The 5.3 crank will need balanced for the heavier slugs – I assume they’ll have to add weight. How expensive is it to add Mallory?
-Pistons installed to rods, or I could do this at home since they are floating but it’d be nice to have a tool for it
-Cam bearings will need installed by machine shop.
Parts I have:
-5.3 crank and floating pin rods
-oil pump, 2x timing gear, and rear cover from my low mile 5.3.
-cathedral port 799 heads with some porting and chamber work. Compression will be high, I figure 11.2-11.3. Is this too high for 93 octane?
-the rest of the top end from an LS1
-224/224 0.588/0.588 112 Comp Cam, push rods, and 1518’s but considering something bigger
-New LS2 timing chain
-LS1 balancer but considering investing in a ATI or similar
Additional Parts needed:
-water and oil plugs for the bare block
-New rod and main bearings
-new GM rod bolts? Or is that only a Gen III thing?
-head gaskets
-Gen IV front cover and cam sensor
-Gen IV valley cover to block off DOD ports
-extension harnesses for knock and cam sensors
-12588670 LS2/LS3 Black Timing Chain Tensioner
It’s looking like I’ll have $2200 into the short block and ~$200 for used covers + wiring extensions.
Bad or good idea? What am I forgetting? If anyone else has done this here please refer me to the thread.
Thanks!
12-18-2011, 10:36 AM
#11
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For $2200 ERL can dry sleeve your 5.3 block and give you a 4.125 or larger bore. This includes all machining and ARP main studs. If you plan any machine work on the new block, (cam bearings, check line bore, ARP studs, hone etc) the cost would be very close. Your block with sleeves would be larger and stronger than a stock block.
You can install floating pins at home - be careful to get locks right. I'd check with your shop on the balance cost - might be less expensive to find another crank that requires less metal to balance - on older engines adding Mallory metal was very expensive.
You can install floating pins at home - be careful to get locks right. I'd check with your shop on the balance cost - might be less expensive to find another crank that requires less metal to balance - on older engines adding Mallory metal was very expensive.
12-18-2011, 08:18 PM
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So it turns out that my brand new take-out pistons are actually LS2's, not LS3's, so my buisiness case for this build is dead. So I bought another junk yard L33 engine and I'm going to run the crap out of it for a couple years before I build something. Suppose I could build an LS2 instead, but if I'm buying a brand new block it will be an LS3.
