DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

I have a 51K mile engine that I am installing into my car. The engine is on the engine stand waiting for my heads to come back from the porter.
I have installed a cam, C5-R chain and a ported LS6 oil pump. (ditched the HV LS4 pump)

Should I replace the factory rod bolts with Katech's while the pan is off? I plan on turning 6500 often. The aluminum rod bearings are little scarry too me.. so I was thinking about repalcing the rod bearings too.

Or... should I just leave the bottom end alone?

Engine is a LS4 with mods in sig.

Pumba

David,

Yes, change both the rod bolts and the rod bearings.

The Katech H-11 steel connecting rod bolts are part number - KAT-A4963 and Katech sells them for $199.99, plus applicable tax and shipping.

I would recommend that you replace your connecting rod bearings with Clevite H-Series moly-coated bearings. Their part number is CB663HK. They sell for approximately $185 at Summit Racing.

Good luck with your new-to-you engine.

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Cool man thanks! I will be leaving everything else alone.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Pumba let me get this straight, you just told someone to change rod bolts and rod bearings. Are they going to measure bearing clearances? And are they getting the rods balanced?

To the OP Sir/ma'am while the engine is out is get the above procedures done by a machine shop if you know how to then just do it. You can't just slap these things together and call it a day. Just my .2

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

LOL.. He was just answering my question


No way in hell... would I think about doing this without having the knowhow. Thank you for your concerns:

I have read Katech's rod bolt install instructions, and I have a torque wrench. Katech's instructions call for torque in ft/lbs. As for replacing the bearings? I have done this before on other engines. I planned on inspecting the bearings while installing the rod bolts anyhow..

Since the engine is assembled, and on a stand, I will use some plastic gauge to check the clearances. Std. bearings would get replaced with std. bearings.

I have been reading about rod failures and am worried. I also don't like aluminum rod bearings.

dogsballs

IMHO, waste of money. if you were spinning to 7500, different story.

i raised a thread recently about rod bolts, for 7+k on genIV's, no reports of broken rods or rod bolts.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I agree...I'm going to spin my LS3 to 6700 maybe a touch higher soon...no concerns about the rod bolts at all...I also trust the OEM bearings. If I were building a new bottom end, I'd go with ACL bearings, on a freshly (and properly) micropolished crank...with freshly inspected (and re-sized if necessary) rods.

I don't intend to sound rude OP...but I've seen far more engine failures from people who think they're doing the right thing for an engine than I have of engines that have just been left alone. I've seen the general do a pretty good job on these engines.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Op sorry but I didn't know if you knew there were proper procedures in doing that stuff. Good luck and I think since it's out a new set of lifters would be cool Since the heads are off if you haven't already. Just my .2

DavidGXP

iTrader: (14)

Going to leave the bottom end alone after doing some more searching, I will be Going with morel street lifters, and psi 1511 springs. I had Pac springs, but one broke and took out my last engine. The springs had about 10k miles and 40 passes, so think they ended up losing some seat pressure.

Does anyone know where I can find some affordable titanium retainers?

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Well 10k miles isint bad, if your cammed you should check them at the beginning of each season at least. There are some pretty aggressive ramp rates out there you gotta be careful.