First start with cam and won't restart. 2010 4.8 vvt
03-22-2012, 10:39 PM
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First start with cam and won't restart. 2010 4.8 vvt So we fired up the truck tonight. before we started it turned the engine over by hand about 6 times by hand and there were no clearance issues. I left the coil packs unhooked and cranked the engine for 15 - 30 sec to get oil through the system. Plugged in the coils and fired right up. had higher idle for a bit and then settled in. Brought it up to 1200-2000 Rpm for a bit to check the trans fluid since I changed the converter also. Its idling now for about 9 min and notice it getting quieter and slower the engine finally stalled. Went to restart it and all it does is crank almost like there is no compression. Could not get it to start back up after this. The pcm had 2 codes missfire and map which I'm guessing is due to the tune not being perfect. Do you think the phaser once warmed up retarded the cam so its off but why would it not reset after the truck sat for a while. Any ideas and experience welcome.
03-23-2012, 09:28 AM
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I will beat myself if that is it but I wont be back to the truck for a couple days. I'm pretty sure I threw 30 bucks worth of premium in it before I started the work ( not that much anymore with how high the prices are) I can include a link to the very first start on youtube but nothing sounds out of the ordinary so I to think its not a mechanical failure.
03-25-2012, 03:50 AM
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Sure sounds like it ran out of gas... If not, check all your vacuum lines to make sure one didn't get burned through or come loose.
Misfire SES is likely from not desensitizing the misfire tables.
MAP SES is likely from the cam pulling low vacuum at idle. You'll need to raise the max kpa values in the idle range to stop that light from popping up.
Misfire SES is likely from not desensitizing the misfire tables.
MAP SES is likely from the cam pulling low vacuum at idle. You'll need to raise the max kpa values in the idle range to stop that light from popping up.
03-26-2012, 02:10 PM
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fuel level is good. Engine is turning over now like it's out of time. Checked the marks really good and ran great for 10 min before it slowly stalled from idle. Looking for any other feed back.
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03-26-2012, 02:34 PM
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Ill check those tonight, I did not install limiter. I spoke with comp about the limiter and they said cams under .580 lift would not need to worry about the valve clearances. The truck has 20K miles on it so I am starting to panic a bit and what is throwing me off is it ran awesome during the 10 minuets before it stalled with the new cam.
03-27-2012, 08:15 AM
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man im stumped like they said check fuel psi its like when the customer comes in and says ever since you fixed my tail light my my tooth hurts! strange coincidences happen i.e. pump fail cam pos fail or even washing the cylinders down what do the plugs look like after prolonged cranking? wet dry good luck keep posted
03-27-2012, 11:22 AM
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So got back into it and there was no compression in cyl 1 and 2. Pulled the valve covers and only a few of the valves were down. I removed all the rockers and and they came up to the same height as the others so I think I should be good with no bent valves. (plus no crazy noises when engine died) So pulled the cover and saw the problem either the pin was not seated all the way into the cam gear or it broke but it was able to spin freely from the crank. back of the sprocket is chewed up so I ordered a new vvt sprocket, the cam bolt/ valve, camshaft dowel pin and crank bolt. Only about .090 of the pin is sticking out of the cam so if any one has tips on removal that would be great.
03-27-2012, 11:38 AM
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So got back into it and there was no compression in cyl 1 and 2. Pulled the valve covers and only a few of the valves were down. I removed all the rockers and and they came up to the same height as the others so I think I should be good with no bent valves. (plus no crazy noises when engine died) So pulled the cover and saw the problem either the pin was not seated all the way into the cam gear or it broke but it was able to spin freely from the crank. back of the sprocket is chewed up so I ordered a new vvt sprocket, the cam bolt/ valve, camshaft dowel pin and crank bolt. Only about .090 of the pin is sticking out of the cam so if any one has tips on removal that would be great.
03-27-2012, 11:43 AM
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No on installation I didnt know the bolt couldnt be reused. The new bolt (valve) I ordered was to match the vin and the new phaser I ordered.
03-27-2012, 11:55 AM
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Well sounds like you got lucky. No bent valves so a few parts re and re and my guess is you'll have it purring away in no time. Just be sure to follow that valve torque spec. I swear it felt like it was going to snap on mine.... Its a LOT of degrees. Its 48 lbs' torque on the bolt first pass, then 90 degrees on the second pass.
03-27-2012, 03:10 PM
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I do agree I got very lucky with how it broke and it didnt take out any other parts of the engine. I will keep people posted and most likely post a video when done. I have to say I learned more about the VVT system in the past 2 weeks then I expected.
