Sleeved Ls motor ?'s! (Hidden Cost)
#1
Sleeved Ls motor ?'s! (Hidden Cost)
SLEEVED MOTOR GUYS?????
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
Last edited by pewterthang; 07-30-2012 at 01:04 AM.
#3
Anyone else? Am i willing to purchase all these parts..... YES!! Just want to know what im getting into up front! THANKS AGAIN FOR ANY INFO GUYS
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
SLEEVED MOTOR GUYS?????
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
Saving for a resleeved Ls2 an i want to know what things are needed that aren't mentioned much when buy a motor of this type. Dont want to be surprised by any parts that are needed to run this type of build!
THANKS FOR ANY INFO GUYS!!!!!!!!!!
1)COOLING: Do engines of this type run higher temps then stock sleeve engines due to the sleeving process? Is a special type of antifreeze needed? Is a high flow water pump or electric water pump needed? Is a KURT URBAN WATER VAPOR SET-UP nessesary on this type of build?
2)OILING: Is an aftermarket oil cooling system recommended? Is the regular oiling system (ported ls6 or meiling) capable of keeping up with this type of build? Or is something else needed?
3)Pistons: Are custom pistons and rings neccesary or is there an off the shelf piston for the sleeved block? Nitrited rings worth it for small shot?
4)Vacuum: Are you guys having vaccum issues with these type motors? Is a vaccum pump recommended?
Im sure i could call RED, VA SPEED, OR ERL to get these ?'s answered but i thought id ask people with real world long term driving experience with a block of this type what all is needed. It will be a daily Driver/weekend warrior 427 11.1 compression setup with tfs heads small cam nitrous car!
AM I GOING OVER BOARD WITH WORRY GUYS? OR WOULD ALL THESE THINGS HELP OUT!
2: Big cube guys run Melling and ported LS6 oil pumps.
3: Shelf pistons will work depending on your combination, you can get custom pistons for any application. But weather or not sleeved blocks require a specific piston I don't remember ever reading anything about that.
4: A vaccum pump is your choice. Some guys run them because they eliminate the need for a PCV system. The big thing on these engines is they are known for excessive blow by and oil consumption in the intake tract. But you can run a good PCV system with a good catch can and be fine. Vacuum pumps are about oil control and ring seal. People have claimed anywhere from 10 to 40 horsepower gain from adding a vacuum pump. If your interested in one check out GZ Motorsports they make a nice LSX bracket and pump.
You might be going overboard, but it never hurts to be thorough and do it right the first time.
#5
1: With a Darton sleeve, Darton recommends running an Evan's water pump. They provide better cooling from bank to bank. Don't know what ERL suggest. There is also a specific headgasket you have to run (pretty sure, not positive about this)
2: Big cube guys run Melling and ported LS6 oil pumps.
3: Shelf pistons will work depending on your combination, you can get custom pistons for any application. But weather or not sleeved blocks require a specific piston I don't remember ever reading anything about that.
4: A vaccum pump is your choice. Some guys run them because they eliminate the need for a PCV system. The big thing on these engines is they are known for excessive blow by and oil consumption in the intake tract. But you can run a good PCV system with a good catch can and be fine. Vacuum pumps are about oil control and ring seal. People have claimed anywhere from 10 to 40 horsepower gain from adding a vacuum pump. If your interested in one check out GZ Motorsports they make a nice LSX bracket and pump.
You might be going overboard, but it never hurts to be thorough and do it right the first time.
2: Big cube guys run Melling and ported LS6 oil pumps.
3: Shelf pistons will work depending on your combination, you can get custom pistons for any application. But weather or not sleeved blocks require a specific piston I don't remember ever reading anything about that.
4: A vaccum pump is your choice. Some guys run them because they eliminate the need for a PCV system. The big thing on these engines is they are known for excessive blow by and oil consumption in the intake tract. But you can run a good PCV system with a good catch can and be fine. Vacuum pumps are about oil control and ring seal. People have claimed anywhere from 10 to 40 horsepower gain from adding a vacuum pump. If your interested in one check out GZ Motorsports they make a nice LSX bracket and pump.
You might be going overboard, but it never hurts to be thorough and do it right the first time.
#6
So no oil cooler kit it needed? They dont burn oil? Hate to sound like a dummy but i just have to ask? Not asking to be repeative, asking because i plan on make a bunch of purchases to today an this will be a big cube daily driver in the heat! Anyone experience driving any sleeved ls builds in 90" temps(VERY HOT WHERE I LIVE)! I plan on driving to and from the track so if i must over do it i will!
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#12
HONESTLY I WANT TO GO OVERBOARD TO GIVE MYSELF A CUSHION IN THE REGARD TO LONGEVITY! Canton oil cooler kit with a fan attached on the cooler, Evans water pump system with stock radiator an dual fan setup! hopefully that will keep temps under control! We will see!
#13
My topend plan is tfs220's(ls2 style) with my Formato Ported fast intake setup! Will that be ok topend wise? I dont want all out power but i do want to have plenty of it! Thanks again guys
#15
Big reason to go to sleeves is to get the 4.125 or larger bore. This allows use of LS7 based heads - an option might want to look into. Getting close to 600 rwhp in a DD is possible with the right head/cam/intake combination on a 427 - do some serious research here before you buy the top end.
Just curious what is your budget for this engine?
#16
No expert but I've run my RED sleeved LS2 427 for about 1500 miles.
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
#17
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Is your car a daily driver or track setup? IM LOOKING FOR MORE DAILY DRIVER EXPERIENCES WITH THE SLEEVED BUILDS. I want to daily drive my 427 an go to the track once or twice! I just want to build a motor that size that i can drive alot ALOT ALOT of miles and enjoy! I dont want to break down or freshen it up yearly or every season as racers do! Im no longer a street racer but a motor of this size is a passion that i have that i want to build an be safe an secure with on driving out of town, around town, an play around with with ZERO ISSUES! Im not a ill informed youngster that is dreaming of doing a build of this type, ITS IN THE WORKS an i just want to cover everything!
HONESTLY I WANT TO GO OVERBOARD TO GIVE MYSELF A CUSHION IN THE REGARD TO LONGEVITY! Canton oil cooler kit with a fan attached on the cooler, Evans water pump system with stock radiator an dual fan setup! hopefully that will keep temps under control! We will see!
HONESTLY I WANT TO GO OVERBOARD TO GIVE MYSELF A CUSHION IN THE REGARD TO LONGEVITY! Canton oil cooler kit with a fan attached on the cooler, Evans water pump system with stock radiator an dual fan setup! hopefully that will keep temps under control! We will see!
I have over (start of playing)800-950RWHP( end of playing) on a sleeved 427 I DD the car for over a year 10k-15k miles went though 6 sets of tires 6 clutches gallons and gallons of 93 and methanol.
stock water pump, rad, hose, 1096 oil pump, stock AC, full leather inside with all stock parts . engine is running strong still could mostly likey drive for another 50k before rebuild but i want to change stuff so im pulling it down to changes stuff at 20k
#18
No expert but I've run my RED sleeved LS2 427 for about 1500 miles.
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
LS3 heads. LS3 intake. Manley forged rotating assembly.Smaller 230/236 cam.
It's in a 67 Nova.Was a LS1/4L60E combo. Pulled the LS1 and kept the 4L60E.
It does warm up faster than the typical LS swap. I have a LS3 73 Camaro and a LS6 98 Wrangler to compare.
Comes up to heat faster. Around town the fan kicks in sooner.Controlled by the ECM. As soon as it's back on the highway the temp comes back to the thermostat. No indication of overheating in town. Running a single 16" Spal fan. Largest Griffiin radiator that fit. 1.25 dual cooling tubes.
Torque is vvveerry impressive. Relearning what it means if you nail it at 50 mph.
Would not build a small cube LS again.
#19
This will work but is not optimum for an engine this size. Would provide a ton of low end torque but you are leaving a lot of potential hp on the table.
Big reason to go to sleeves is to get the 4.125 or larger bore. This allows use of LS7 based heads - an option might want to look into. Getting close to 600 rwhp in a DD is possible with the right head/cam/intake combination on a 427 - do some serious research here before you buy the top end.
Just curious what is your budget for this engine?
Big reason to go to sleeves is to get the 4.125 or larger bore. This allows use of LS7 based heads - an option might want to look into. Getting close to 600 rwhp in a DD is possible with the right head/cam/intake combination on a 427 - do some serious research here before you buy the top end.
Just curious what is your budget for this engine?
#20
. your not getting the fact that its the same as a stock block but alot stronger,
I have over (start of playing)800-950RWHP( end of playing) on a sleeved 427 I DD the car for over a year 10k-15k miles went though 6 sets of tires 6 clutches gallons and gallons of 93 and methanol.
stock water pump, rad, hose, 1096 oil pump, stock AC, full leather inside with all stock parts . engine is running strong still could mostly likey drive for another 50k before rebuild but i want to change stuff so im pulling it down to changes stuff at 20k
I have over (start of playing)800-950RWHP( end of playing) on a sleeved 427 I DD the car for over a year 10k-15k miles went though 6 sets of tires 6 clutches gallons and gallons of 93 and methanol.
stock water pump, rad, hose, 1096 oil pump, stock AC, full leather inside with all stock parts . engine is running strong still could mostly likey drive for another 50k before rebuild but i want to change stuff so im pulling it down to changes stuff at 20k