BigAce

Hey guys,
Some of you may remember that i had a piston crack in my Denali's L92.

We are now in the process of building a forged 418 stroker motor. it will be built to handle boost from a whipple that will eventually go on it one day.

i want to run as much boost as the forged bottom end and all the parts can safely handle, I would also like to run a small shot of nitrous on the motor. how much boost and how much nitrous could i really use? 14-16psi? I plan to use the Arp head bolts.

Do you think that a 700-750ish hp l92 that sees an occasional spray would need the arp main studs? The cost is a bit of an issue, so are they necessary?

have others made this kind of power reliably on stock mains and given it a little daily abuse for a few years without any issues?

2000PewterT/A

If you going that far, I would do it even if it is just for piece of mind. I am running ARP main studs on my engine, not as crazy as the one you are talking about but regardless you can never be too safe.

6D9 Matt

Couldnt agree more... if you are gonna spend that much coin on a setup, might as well.

Sales1@Texas-speed

Agreed small price to pay for the added insurance.

BigAce

yes, glad to hear from someone who has tried it before.

Fafnir, if you dont mind me asking, How hard do you push it in that car? How long has your setup been running like that?

I will be driving this truck every day and want to be sure that it is going to last.

Just about every day at some point I like to really get all over it like a bank robber with 2 strikes for a short period of time. Ive got to know that it can withstand this long term without issues.

I tend to like overbuilding things for the added secuity, but the price of the studs and machine work would add a lot to the cost of my build. I would only do them if I REALLY need them.

Defenitly going to use the arp head bolts.


Aaron@Texas Speed, we spoke on the phone last week when i ordered my rotating assembly and cam. Sure, a little added insurance is nice but do you agree that i can get away with using the stock studs at this power level just fine? my decision will rest on your opinion.


Ive scoured the web looking for answers on this and found a lot of mixed opinions on it. but i have seen a few say it doesnt really matter until at least 900-1000rwhp

Thanks

dogsballs

i'd be more worried about the heads lifting than the crank walking.

Sales1@Texas-speed

Yes you can definitely do without the studs, but I still stand by my opinion that if its in the budget its not a bad idea.

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

Factory studs in my ls3. the main caps are the strongest part of the ls motor. I didnt see the need for the expense under 1000rwhp

litle88

iTrader: (20)

If your spending money for a 6-700 RWHP build, what's 150 dollars for an added insurance and piece of mind? Why cut corners? Do it once and do it right, or you'll be paying twice!

I did it on my build.

Why is 1000 hp the cutoff? Says who? When your FI and spraying that is some violent **** happening.

Nothing wrong with ARP mains, but it's up to you since you've mentioned this is your daily driver before iirc.

BigAce

Thanks for your responses guys,

so no one has ever heard of someone breaking a main stud or anything? or a failure caused by the crank walking that could have been avoided by using ARP?

The arp main studs are actually about $240 dollars. then i think i would need an align hone thats probably 150. so its quite a bit actually, especially when im already stretching it with the engine build. Another 400 would make it tough.

I dont want to spend the money on something unnecessary

The motor is at the machine shop now, and i think im going to ask him if they have already finished the align hone.

and if they have not yet, Il buy the studs. If they already did it im going to use stock. dont want to pay for the align hone twice plus the cost of studs.

My engine builder already told me that they were unnecessary and just to go with stock.

I would have loved to have built it myself, I love wrenching but I have never assembled a v8 before and dont want to experiment for the 1st time with my 40K+ truck. I cant afford to make a mistake so I decided to let someone that really knows what they are doing have at it.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

From a sponsor, don't know where your shopping for parts but here is one bud,
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...main-stud-kit/

Might be closer to you
http://speed-eng.com/store/engine-ar...79c92bcaa652e1

DirtyDirk

I thought the factory bolts we're torque to yield so they need replaced anyway. Subtract the cost of factory to the arp and its not a big expense.

dogsballs

waste of money!

dodson55

iTrader: (18)

just to be honest if your worried about something that will be less then 400 bucks for parts and machine work you need a new hobby horsepower and relabilaty aint cheap why take a chance of losing thousands of dollars if the factory bolts fail you said you were looking at a whipple down the road just run it na for now spend the money for the added piece of mind that way you can enjoy you engine for a long time once you boost it

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Main bolts are fine. From a machinists standpoint, the ARP's are easier and faster than the OEM bolts, but GM sells their 750hp LSX crate motor with OEM main bolts so I think you can save the money and put it somewhere that will do more good. Upgrade to tool steel pins or a nicer ring pack if you haven't already.

BigAce

Thanks,
If GM's engineers think that the stock main bolts can reliably hold 750hp, Then i believe them.

Il probably go with the stock, but what's this about the mains being TTY and only usable once?
Is this true? I thought it was only the head bolts that were TTY.

but if i have to buy new bolts and they still have not finished the line hone i will buy the ARPs.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

They just use a similar method to TTY, but they aren't stretched as close to yield so they can be reused.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

The factory mains are tightened using the torque + angle method, but that does not mean they are torque to yield. The tightening method just gives more consistent clamping. From what I understand, the LSx factory main bolts can be reused.

I put studs in my block which will see about half the power you are looking for because I am stupid and like to waste money. No really, I am. I can't justify the expense at all for what will likely be around a 500 crank hp engine. Even as insurance goes, it's a bit of a waste. It was one of those "while I'm here, I may as well" sort of decisions. I don't regret it much though because I've since forgotten what I spent on it. If I was in your shoes potentially abusing a stroker with a turbo and/or spray, I would buy them even though I can't logically justify it. If good is good enough then better is better than good enough. I want better than good enough and for me the added expense is just not that big of a deal in the grand scheme of things.

BigAce

Thanks little88, Speed enginering is based in my hometown.
at TSP and many places online they were $235 and up.

I ended up ordering the studs because i thought that it would help leave a solid foundation for future mods in case i decide to push over 1000whp
with nitrous on top of boost.

litle88

iTrader: (20)

Good for you sir!

Keep me posted on you build man.