ChevyMan90

Im getting ready to start a build for an OBS truck with an LY6 block. Im wanting to use an F-body harness and computer, and basically run it as a Gen III set up. I know I need the 24X reluctor wheel and I do know about the Lingenfelter converter box but Id rather just use an older style crank. Have any of you had any experience with remanufactured crankshafts? This one comes with matching main and rod bearings. Also, since Im starting from basically a bare block I'd like to use ARP rod bolts. I know its recommended to use the .002 oversized Clevite 1776-P rod bearings if you resize the big ends. What rod bearings should I use if my rod ends were resized? The crank is supposed to be reground and polished so Im sure that the clevite bearing wouldn't work. If anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2254&ppt=C0364

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

FWIW I have installed many sets of ARP rod bolts without resizing the rod ends...all had correct clearances...If you were really worried about it, Katech sells a set of rod bolts that do not recommend resizing of the rod ends....

Check your clearances...most of the oem bearings/crank I put together are in the .016-.018 rod bearing clearances...A buddy of mine had a motor setup at .002 and oil pressure was a tad on the low side, never had an issue, just had to end up running thicker oil to get it back up...If you want to run .002 clearances make sure to get a high volume/pressure oil pump, or port and shim yours accordingly, 3.2mm shim maybe?

ChevyMan90

Yea I've had several buddies install the ARP's with no problems too. It just seems like its playing with fire when it comes to using them, I just hope I'd be as lucky as them and have no problems. I've heard a lot about the Katech's through researching on here though.

I bought a near complete used Gen III 5.3 a while back to use for parts for my swap and I thought about using the crank from it. The oil has been drained but the pan is still on. Im sure it needs some cleaning/degreasing but Ive considered having it checked out and using it instead. That way I wouldnt have too worry about using any oversized bearings. Thanks for your reply!

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Do it once, do it right. Even the katech bolts are not fool proof.

Fwiw, you can pick up a set of forged scat rods with arp 2k bolts for less than 300 bucks new.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

As for the crank, a friend of mine is using one of those and its heads and cam and a 200shot. Still going strong with no issues.

ChevyMan90

Well thats good to hear. Is he using the bearings that came with it? With ARP rod bolts?

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Yup, the bearings that came with it and stock rod bolts

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

What do you do for the cam signal when building a hybrid like this? Do you just have to use an early LS2 style timing sprocket and wire the timing cover mounted sensor to the LS1 computer?

What is the converter box for? Knock sensors? Rerouting wiring?

What is an OBS truck and why are you set on using the LS1 computer rather than going to Gen IV 58x stuff?

ChevyMan90

Yep, I will use an LS2 timing cover, sprocket and sensor. The converter box can be wired in and allow you to use a 58X reluctor wheel crank from a Gen IV with an F-Body style wiring harness and computer. The reason Im not using the Gen IV style computer is because the the drive by wire setup is a little more complicated than the cable, plus I'd have to mount the pedal and all. I can get an older style computer and stand alone harness for a pretty good price as well. From what I've seen most people drill and tap the sides of the block and mount the knock sensors there. An OBS truck is an old body style 88-98 Silverado/Sierra which came with the old SBC 350... Before all the new LS style motors.

Thanks 87silverbullet, thats what I needed to know!