I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

Should be firing my motor up here soon.

I have been looking at break in oil. I do not care if you think its ok to run synthetic out of the box because the factory does or blah blah blah.


I am looking at Comp cams break in oil which I can get for like 4.89 a quart.

also looking at joe gibbs. I plan on running VR1 20w50 fully synthetic in the car after we do a few changes and seat the rings.

I mean comp is a leader in valve train so youd think they did there homework.

But I hear that the thinner oil primes easier so maybe running 5w30 may have benefit over running heavier weight. I dont know, I just want the best for this jewel.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

I initially used Comp Cam 10W-30 because it was like you said $5 a quart. I bought it from Summit Racing and wasn't smart enough to buy 12 rather than 6. I have Royal Purple 10W-30 Break-in in it right now for the second oil change. My personnel feelings is you should not use a thick oil, and stick with what is recommended by GM or your engine builder.

You can't go wrong with any of the top brands. Joe Gibbs, RP, Comp....

If you do go Comp Cam, buy it from their website. You can buy a case of 12 for $60 shipped.

Mell00

Lots of good oils to break in with. Use 10w-30 breakin for an LS V8 and then 10w-30 synthetic for long term.
other oils that are good breakin oils as well: Maxima, RP, Lucas and a few more

keith102371

iTrader: (20)

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...test-data.html

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Heard from several people and Kyle recommended me vr1 20-50. I will be running that.

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

i hear ls1s shudnt need broken in?

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

There is nothing magical with the LS1. It sure does need a "break in" just like any other new engine out there for longevity and performance. Break in oil simply contains additives for added protection not normally found in off the shelf oil.

Now I don't buy into that synthetic is bad and will prevent the rings from seating because all GM LS crate's instructions tell you to put Mobil 1 from the get go.

I put break in oil just to say I did everything I could to ensure it was done right. What I wouldn't do is put a thicker oil in there. With tighter bearing clearances, you may do more harm than good.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

That an interesting thread, but the method of test could vary the results. I have personally seen the Royal Purple test, its a lot better than that thread claims. I have a seen a loaded bearing run without oil being coated with RP and kept going. Some of the other oils seized with less load.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Gibbs

What are the rod and main clearance that you need 20-50

Tim

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

ahh okay got it!!

litle88

iTrader: (20)

What did your engine builder recommend you?

AES built my short block and they said to run vr1 20/50 for Breakin and normal use. I then asked if I should switch to the synthetic 20/50 and they said absolutely not. Gotta go with your builder bud. IMHO.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

We've always used Valvoline VR40 for break in and never a problem seating rungs,bearings ect. After that alot of the cars stay on the same oil. Needing 20/50 just tells me the motor is too loose.

brnmw

I agree with this.
Most of your name brand "Break-in" oils are good > example... Comp Cams 10w-30, Lucas Oil SAE 30, etc... however even though High Zinc properties are great for initial break-in, to be honest many cars have just used a simple conventional motor oil for break-in periods ex. Pennzoil SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil have worked great. If the price is right go with the "Break-in" formulas but the conventional motor oil route will not hurt your engine. GM cars nowadays do come with Mobil 1 synth. oil in them along with Ferrari's, SRT8's and Vipers are coming with Pennzoil "Ultra" in them as well.

If anyone read my profile they will see that I was once a GM guy, but I do drive a Ford now but stay close to the LS family I mention this only as an example for when I purchased my car back in 2006.
I purchased my '06 Mustang GT with only 6 miles on the OD, found out Ford put Motorcraft Semi-synth 5w-20 in it from the factory and said stay with that for the first oil change or two then go full synth. I got with a couple of guys with '02 Camaro's and T/A's at a car show and one of them admitted to using the Motorcraft in his engine for the break-in as well "It's cheap and really good oil he said so no worries". (I have actually heard now time and again that the Motorcraft brand is in fact Valvoline which also produces an SAE 40 "Break-in" formula for Roush industries... pretty expensive though about $7.00 a qt.)

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I use Castrol gtx 10w30 for brake in with zinc additive.

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

im gona try the vr1 conventional 10w30

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

not sure what the clearances are. I just tell them I want a motor, they build it, and ship it. I am not a hands on person. I do the research and tell them what I want.