hymey

Hi guys,

I have read a lot of posts and many searches on chains here Just want to find out to date has anyone had a failure with the rollmaster iwis chain set?

I used to use dbl rows in all my engine builds and cam swaps, generally with the SLP pump, makes life a lot easier doing this. However in times when it is harder to remove sump entirely(to elongate pickup holes) I have been using the single sets more commonly, in a few builds the katech chain(including my solid roller 434) and zero issues. In Australia these are harder to get for short notice cam swaps in customers cars so I have been using the rollmaster single sets and ls2 damper, I get these overnight and is a fast easy install. If anyone has positive or negative feedback with these plz let me know

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

No problems with mine. 2000 miles on it.

Tim

usdmholden

Guys, how far off was your Rollmaster / IWIS when you timed your cams? I recently timed a JP 5618T (which I understand is now the same as a Rollmaster but the JP uses a Rolon chain) and it was off seven degrees, so I sent it back for an exchange. IE:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...s-typical.html

I am thinking about getting the Rollmaster with IWIS chain or the Cloyes 9-3153A instead. There's a $40 price difference between the two. I actually specified the Cloyes on my SD return form, but I may call them and change the order.

Thanks.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

Mine was on the $. Not sure how a set could be 7 off

Tim

usdmholden

My guess is that the keyways in the sprocket were machined wrong.

Gray86hatch

iTrader: (83)

did you verify it with a stock timing set.

Tim

hymey

Normally spot on. I have had some come in 2 degrees retarded. I have had to advance them 6 degrees to get them back to plus 4. But only had this once. Usually within a degree mostly spot on. I use JP sprockets and katech chain on my race engine it was spot on. If there is a lot of slack in chain it cam make timing more retarded. I normally put cams in the ls square port engines at 0 advance. Just double check your work. Check intake centreline, exhaust centreline and intake valve close. Sometimes the intake centreline is right and the intake valve close at 50 thou lobe lift is out. Get a compromise between the two.

usdmholden

If you read through the link I posted I went through all the math. I did re-do the measurements several times, and reset TDC several times. I also re-verified my previous measurements (from July) one time with the stock timing components, and I got within half a degree using the stock timing components. I did all the re-verification after I made the first post and I never updated the thread.

The only thing I did not try was to mix and match the OEM parts with the JP chain and sprockets to isolate the actual problem. I did not do that because Scoggin Dickey told me to send them back and I already knew there was a problem with them.

This is the first time I have timed a cam in an LS, but I've timed many SBFs over the last 20 years, and the process is the same.

Thanks

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

Still waiting for your visit to take the Cruiser for a spin.

There were some counterfeit C5R chains out there a while ago. Can you get Cloyes sets over downunder?