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Why is this cam installed this way?

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Old 12-15-2013, 10:53 PM
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Default Why is this cam installed this way?

I bought this built long block by HKE from another user a LONG time ago and just got back to my project. I am putting a different cam in this motor and when I took the front cover off I found that the dots were not aligned. The cam specs are 232/238 114 +4. The motor spins freely. Why is this?

Old 12-15-2013, 11:35 PM
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I believe that advanced valvetrain events by several degrees
Old 12-16-2013, 03:28 AM
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That is a retard position. It looks like quite a bit though. I dont see any bushing in the cam gear though. I would double check it.
Old 12-16-2013, 06:57 AM
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The cam specs showed a +4 installed position. It may be that the other owner wanted the cam to be installed straight up, maybe to get a few more RPMs out of it on the top side.
Old 12-16-2013, 08:52 AM
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First I would check the valve events and write everything down for the .006 and .050 values. That right there along with 5 more minutes of math would tell you if the cam is in correctly or not. Then I would call HKE and ask to make sure, and email the pictures to Erik.

Given the location of the dots, that cam has to be retarded like 30 crank degrees or more. Unless there is something else going on which nobody understands, hence calling HKE.
Old 12-16-2013, 09:12 AM
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thats an adjustable crank gear and it appears it is not on the zero position which means that lower dot means nothing
Old 12-16-2013, 02:13 PM
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Should I install the new crank the same way? Or dot to dot?
Old 12-16-2013, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by X-Bomb Racing
That is a retard position. It looks like quite a bit though. I dont see any bushing in the cam gear though. I would double check it.

Agreed.... Each dot is usually 4 degrees. I would recheck it.
Old 12-16-2013, 03:37 PM
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You need to degree the new cam or just return the crank pulley to dot to dot
Old 12-17-2013, 09:42 PM
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Rotating the cam dot to the 6 o'clock position shows that the crank sprocket is advanced 1 tooth to the right. I see that if the front dot were on the crank key/groove, the dots would line up perfectly. I will degree the cam just to verify the valve events on the cam card but I do not see a point in pulling the crank sprocket and pressing it back on if it is the same thing as moving the timing chain one link over. I've ordered a degree wheel but I'm having trouble finding the tool to put in the spark plug hole to calculate TDC. Any help?
Old 12-18-2013, 07:40 AM
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Moving the chain is NOT the same as moving the crank gear. I'd suggest a lot of reading to get a solid understanding of the process
Old 12-18-2013, 08:21 AM
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The dots should line up, no matter what advance or retard it was setup with. Is it possible the previous owner swapped cams or installed it himself?
Old 12-18-2013, 08:34 AM
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...e/piston-stops

When piston #1 is at TDC the keyway groove in the crank does not line up with the dot on the crank sprocket. You need to find TDC and degree the cam before you do anything else with it.
Old 12-18-2013, 08:48 AM
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There are two dots on the crank sprocket, one on the gear and one on the oil pump drive. The key way should line up with the dot on the front of the drive if there is not going to be any additional advance or retard installed. The other key way slots are for installing the cam with advance or retard. The dot towards the back on the gear should line up with the dot on the cam gear no matter what.

I'd bet you the dot on the front of the drive was used to line up on the dot on the cam gear, and not the dot on the gear.
Old 12-19-2013, 01:37 AM
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If the dot on the front of the crank sprocket were used to install the cam "straight up" the cam dot would be closer to the 4 o'clock position.
Old 12-19-2013, 01:39 AM
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I don't believe the previous owner removed/replaced the cam. I called HKE but no answer. I emailed them with a link to this thread and they recommended I degree to verify.
Old 12-21-2013, 09:53 PM
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Alright folks. Degreed the new cam today installed the same way the old one came off and it was WAY off. Pulled the crank sprocket and pressed it on with the key in the snout dot. Put re-established TDC, tightened degree wheel and rotated to 0.050" intake valve lift and I was bang on the cam card. Got the intake closing degree perfect as well. Spot on grind from EPS with Patrick G's specs. Thanks for all the help folks. My engine stand was occupied by another project so I degreed this one on a storage stand kneeling and sitting the whole time. I'm worn out and my back hurts. Took longer than it should have, but peace of mind is priceless.
Old 12-30-2013, 12:59 PM
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Glad you got it sorted out!



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