Need some help after a cam swap
11-23-2015, 10:31 PM
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Need some help after a cam swap Hi everyone!
I've got a 2010 Yukon Denali with the 6.2. It's just out of warranty and a lifter went bad. My other car is a G8 and I was planning on doing a cam swap over my vacation. Instead I get to fix the wifes car...
Anyway, I'm keeping the VVT, but deleting the AFM. Ordered a cam out of a 2009 Escalade (L9H), it has VVT but no AFM. I sent my pcm to Brendan at LTSwap to delete the AFM. Did the full cam swap, LS7 lifters, valley cover from a 4.8, new gaskets, oil pump (pressure is good), water pump, heads were cleaned, new timing chain, sprockets, cam phaser and bolt/solenoid. All went well till I started it.
Initial startup was fine but the idle was erratic, then I got several codes about the throttle position sensor. Unplugged it, cleaned it (wasn't dirty), reset the codes. Started and ran great again for 5 minutes, then got p325, p327, p353 codes and started running rough again. Ugh...
Reset those codes, started and ran great for 5-10 minutes. Then the CEL came on again and Stabilitrack off light. Started idling rough again. Both my code readers show no codes now, but CEL light on? WTH?
I did not get any tune, just the AFM delete. The only mod is a CAI. Please help, what do I need to check?
BTW, pain in the *** dropping the oil pan (4wd). Actually the pain is reinstalling the Diff. I was all hopped up to put a big cam in my G8 until this.
Thanks,
Steve
I've got a 2010 Yukon Denali with the 6.2. It's just out of warranty and a lifter went bad. My other car is a G8 and I was planning on doing a cam swap over my vacation. Instead I get to fix the wifes car...
Anyway, I'm keeping the VVT, but deleting the AFM. Ordered a cam out of a 2009 Escalade (L9H), it has VVT but no AFM. I sent my pcm to Brendan at LTSwap to delete the AFM. Did the full cam swap, LS7 lifters, valley cover from a 4.8, new gaskets, oil pump (pressure is good), water pump, heads were cleaned, new timing chain, sprockets, cam phaser and bolt/solenoid. All went well till I started it.
Initial startup was fine but the idle was erratic, then I got several codes about the throttle position sensor. Unplugged it, cleaned it (wasn't dirty), reset the codes. Started and ran great again for 5 minutes, then got p325, p327, p353 codes and started running rough again. Ugh...
Reset those codes, started and ran great for 5-10 minutes. Then the CEL came on again and Stabilitrack off light. Started idling rough again. Both my code readers show no codes now, but CEL light on? WTH?
I did not get any tune, just the AFM delete. The only mod is a CAI. Please help, what do I need to check?
BTW, pain in the *** dropping the oil pan (4wd). Actually the pain is reinstalling the Diff. I was all hopped up to put a big cam in my G8 until this.
Thanks,
Steve
11-24-2015, 06:18 PM
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ok, an update for anyone that might find themselves in this situation.
So today, same thing. Would run great for a bit, then start running rough and throwing codes. Kept getting cylinder 3 misfire, knock sensor voltage, and coil voltage codes. I swapped plugs, then wires, then coils, no difference. Still showed the same. So i began tracing wires looking for shorts and continuity and eventually made it to the PCM leads. When I took off the bottom one, I saw moisture (think it was antifreeze). I cleaned it with MAF sensor spray and blew it out good. Must have got in there while my PCM was off being programmed?
Anyway, plugged it all back in and voila! Runs great now. Smooth and responsive, better than before. I don't notice any difference in power (sucks to do all this work for no change) but didn't expect too with stock cams. Gives me something to look forward too when I do my G8.
Overall, pretty straightforward. I dropped the oil pan to make sure I got the debris from the lifter out (wasn't much and everything looks good), and to make sure oil pump o ring was seated right. The oil pan was the biggest and most time consuming part. Specifically getting the front diff out while on the garage floor. Actually, getting it in was the hard part..... But at least I don't have that nagging voice saying "you should have dropped the pan"
So today, same thing. Would run great for a bit, then start running rough and throwing codes. Kept getting cylinder 3 misfire, knock sensor voltage, and coil voltage codes. I swapped plugs, then wires, then coils, no difference. Still showed the same. So i began tracing wires looking for shorts and continuity and eventually made it to the PCM leads. When I took off the bottom one, I saw moisture (think it was antifreeze). I cleaned it with MAF sensor spray and blew it out good. Must have got in there while my PCM was off being programmed?
Anyway, plugged it all back in and voila! Runs great now. Smooth and responsive, better than before. I don't notice any difference in power (sucks to do all this work for no change) but didn't expect too with stock cams. Gives me something to look forward too when I do my G8.
Overall, pretty straightforward. I dropped the oil pan to make sure I got the debris from the lifter out (wasn't much and everything looks good), and to make sure oil pump o ring was seated right. The oil pan was the biggest and most time consuming part. Specifically getting the front diff out while on the garage floor. Actually, getting it in was the hard part..... But at least I don't have that nagging voice saying "you should have dropped the pan"