Max stroke on a L92 with stock sleeve?
#1
Max stroke on a L92 with stock sleeve?
I've read claims that the L92 is almost identicle to the LS1/LS2 block, so I was wondering if the sleeve was the same length? Or in other words, what's the most stroke that the L92 will accept with the stock sleeve and custom rods/pistons?
#3
let me know the sleeve length and I'll let you know.
Let me know the sleeve length, and I'll tell you about the piston side of things. As far as the oil galleys or lobe/rod clearance...that's not going to be easy. -Brian Nutter-Wiseco
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#8
So isn't that my answer right there? Find out the max stroke for the LS2 and that'll be the same for the L92?
How much is taken out when finish hone the bore? If the bore is 4.065" stock, took out .005" which would put me at 4.07" and use a 4.100" crank, that would produce a 427 cu in motor.
How much is taken out when finish hone the bore? If the bore is 4.065" stock, took out .005" which would put me at 4.07" and use a 4.100" crank, that would produce a 427 cu in motor.
#9
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Why hone the block when it should come with a finish hone from the factory? Save the hone for a rebuild, unless you feel the 1/2 cube you gain will make that much of a diffrence. If you just want a "427", then just call it a 427. Mines a 453, but I call it a 454. As for the block, you need to let someone get there hands on one so we can see what there about. I'm sure most parts will interchange no problem, but there's always the chance GM threw something in there that might cause a problem with a long stroke. There's more to it than just sleeve legnth. Don't be like the LS2 intake guys who couldn't wait to pre order one. Then they got them and they were POS's.
#10
I didn't know they had a finish hone from the factory. I thought all blocks had to be "cleaned" up. I'm not trying to build a certain cubic inch motor as in a 427. I just wanted to put as much stroke as possible without changing the bore as I can't afford to resleeve right now.
#11
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finish honing
The blocks are finish honed from the factory. What you want to do is get the block vibratory stress relieved then have it honed again with deck plates and mains torqued to spec. You may end up .005" over on the bore (order .005" over pistons if that is the case) but the cylinders will now be round and stay round.
Steve
Steve
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
I didn't know they had a finish hone from the factory. I thought all blocks had to be "cleaned" up. I'm not trying to build a certain cubic inch motor as in a 427. I just wanted to put as much stroke as possible without changing the bore as I can't afford to resleeve right now.
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Steve Demirjian
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Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
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I would stick with the 4". With a bigger crank it wont be able to rev as freely, and you do have a race car. with a 4.125 crank with that bore would it be a 430 something cube.
Thomas
Thomas
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Originally Posted by Dragaholic
With a 4.07 (4.065/.005" honed) and 4.125" stroke, equals 429 cu. in.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
A member above mentioned that if I stick with the 4" stroke, it will have the best stroke to bore ratio, but I have no idea what the means.
Nate
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i think what someone means by equal bore and stroke is the motor is more square'd 4.0X4.0 or 4.1X4.1. something to do with having a bore and stroke that is equal allows the motor to be more balanced. but there are many engines that dont have equal bore and stroke that spin up just fine. if it were me and if i were building all over again i would have gone with a 4.030 X 4.100 crank on my LS2. if i were to do a L92 i would go for max out on the first build 4.080 X 4.125. worst case is a set of new pistons and another block in the future. Whats the chances of you roasting all 8 pistons and cracking the block?
#18
Regarding the block itself guys, i have a couple of questions regarding the quality. I read on another forum that cylinders were .120 thick on one side and .040 on the other. Also apparently there is ALOT of deburring that has to be done. How did you guys find the quality of the shipped block to be? Were these GMPP blocks?