darton sleeved ls2 block for FI and high power
#1
darton sleeved ls2 block for FI and high power
have been planning for over a year and finally with money to build the motor and im still stuck on choosing a block. this is a big investment that id like to last. the car will not be race only and i do not want to have to rebuild the motor as often as a race motor would require.
my goal is to hit the 1000RWHP mark ive been reading on the lsx block and warhawk blocks and really am starting to lean away from them. mainly dont want the lsx because it is iron and dontwant the extra weight. after reading into detail about the warhawk im also leaning away from that and the price tag isnt all that great too. so ive been reading up on the strengths of the ls2 block and so far im liking it. what im wonderings is two things.
1 would a darton MID sleeved (if available yet) ls2 block bored to 4.125" to make a 427 have enough wall thickness and be strong enought to handle the pressures of forced induction and 1000+FWHP? i am obsessed with that number and is why i considered the aftermarket blocks. my dream has always revolved around that size engine and now that i have money to accomplish this id really like to get a 427.
2 if not possible (427 ls2 for boost) then would i be better off with a stock bore ls2 block resleeved with darton MID sleeves? reason i want to get these sleeves is because ive read nothing but good about them and they're strength compared to the stock shitty liners....
my goal is to hit the 1000RWHP mark ive been reading on the lsx block and warhawk blocks and really am starting to lean away from them. mainly dont want the lsx because it is iron and dontwant the extra weight. after reading into detail about the warhawk im also leaning away from that and the price tag isnt all that great too. so ive been reading up on the strengths of the ls2 block and so far im liking it. what im wonderings is two things.
1 would a darton MID sleeved (if available yet) ls2 block bored to 4.125" to make a 427 have enough wall thickness and be strong enought to handle the pressures of forced induction and 1000+FWHP? i am obsessed with that number and is why i considered the aftermarket blocks. my dream has always revolved around that size engine and now that i have money to accomplish this id really like to get a 427.
2 if not possible (427 ls2 for boost) then would i be better off with a stock bore ls2 block resleeved with darton MID sleeves? reason i want to get these sleeves is because ive read nothing but good about them and they're strength compared to the stock shitty liners....
Last edited by C Murda; 11-15-2007 at 06:20 PM.
#2
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We have ran the ERL sleeved blocks with great results in power adder cars. Both Ohio boys cars are running sleeved blocks with turbochargers at over 1000 flywheel hp. Steve Turley's car is a LS2 resleeved that has been running all this season without trouble.
Kurt
Kurt
#3
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Darton Sleeves
Get in touch with Steve @ Race Engine Development in CA.
He did my N A LS2 block with 4.185 dry sleeves. I visited his shop and top notch.
He has 900+ hp alum blocks running around also. At that hp, you'll want the better LS7 main caps or similar.
I think a dry sleeve 4.125 would be fine for boost but the MID is stronger.
I was thinking LSx also but did'nt want the extra lbs.
Forgot to mention that he works directly with Darton for some of their R & D and also has many years of racing exp.
He did my N A LS2 block with 4.185 dry sleeves. I visited his shop and top notch.
He has 900+ hp alum blocks running around also. At that hp, you'll want the better LS7 main caps or similar.
I think a dry sleeve 4.125 would be fine for boost but the MID is stronger.
I was thinking LSx also but did'nt want the extra lbs.
Forgot to mention that he works directly with Darton for some of their R & D and also has many years of racing exp.
Last edited by davidws6; 11-17-2007 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention
#4
also ive brought back the warhawk into consideration and would like yours and any other engine builder honest opinion on wether or not i should do a sleeved ls2 or the warhawk. i really want 427 cubes so im thinking that may be too much bore for an ls2 to safely handle boost and 1000+hp correct? if not then i would surely go with the ls2 to save some loot. if not then i may just have to go warhawk. im just affraid cause it is a fairly new block that i havnt heard a single thing about it being used with boost and pushing its limits...
i need to come to a decision by december so i can have my motor for spring
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are these the same shortblock that you offer on your site?
also ive brought back the warhawk into consideration and would like yours and any other engine builder honest opinion on wether or not i should do a sleeved ls2 or the warhawk. i really want 427 cubes so im thinking that may be too much bore for an ls2 to safely handle boost and 1000+hp correct? if not then i would surely go with the ls2 to save some loot. if not then i may just have to go warhawk. im just affraid cause it is a fairly new block that i havnt heard a single thing about it being used with boost and pushing its limits...
i need to come to a decision by december so i can have my motor for spring
also ive brought back the warhawk into consideration and would like yours and any other engine builder honest opinion on wether or not i should do a sleeved ls2 or the warhawk. i really want 427 cubes so im thinking that may be too much bore for an ls2 to safely handle boost and 1000+hp correct? if not then i would surely go with the ls2 to save some loot. if not then i may just have to go warhawk. im just affraid cause it is a fairly new block that i havnt heard a single thing about it being used with boost and pushing its limits...
i need to come to a decision by december so i can have my motor for spring
Happened to a buddy of mine with a 402ci & TTiX kit pushing 900rwhp. And you want to talk about boring it out even more than the stock bore? It won't be a matter of if, but when.
If you want reliability at that power level, go with the iron LSX or Warhawk, and even then, there's still no guarantee.
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horespower > aluminum
I debated trying to go 1k hp with aluminum. Then I woke up and realized how ridiculus it was to expect such a good thing to last. It would work... but I wouldnt bet on how long.
I debated trying to go 1k hp with aluminum. Then I woke up and realized how ridiculus it was to expect such a good thing to last. It would work... but I wouldnt bet on how long.
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Blocks
Talk to Race engine development (Steve).
He knows what will hold up and won't steer you wrong
With that power I would either use the c5r block sleeved by Steve ,or lsx
Turn up the boost ,why worry about a extra 100 lbs
I would think the war hawk would do it if it is machined properly.
Steve is the guy @ RED
Stephan Demirjian
E-mail Address(es):
race-engine-development@***.net
He knows what will hold up and won't steer you wrong
With that power I would either use the c5r block sleeved by Steve ,or lsx
Turn up the boost ,why worry about a extra 100 lbs
I would think the war hawk would do it if it is machined properly.
Steve is the guy @ RED
Stephan Demirjian
E-mail Address(es):
race-engine-development@***.net
#9
I have been debating over the same thing and can't stand the thought of adding 100 lbs to the nose of a perfectly balanced machine.I would like to know from some of the experienced folks here whom will not only build my longblock to go 1000RWHP reliably but will do it in a timely fashion.I ordered 1 year ago a 1500 HP capable longblock from VT engines for my mustang and still to this hour don't have anything to show for my dollar or to have fun with.It's rediculous and takes the fun out of a great sport.I am so fed up with the whole thing that I bought a 06 C6 and am now seeking out someone who will build a motor in a month or two and actually deliver?I have looked into wheel 2 wheel,livernois,borowski,and now after viewing this thread Steve from california.
Thanks in advance for the priceless advice.
Thanks in advance for the priceless advice.
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The engines on our website that make 1000hp are the stock LS2 block, but they won't make 427. A ERL block at 4.125 bore would take care of your needs without issue.
Kurt
Kurt
are these the same shortblock that you offer on your site?
also ive brought back the warhawk into consideration and would like yours and any other engine builder honest opinion on wether or not i should do a sleeved ls2 or the warhawk. i really want 427 cubes so im thinking that may be too much bore for an ls2 to safely handle boost and 1000+hp correct? if not then i would surely go with the ls2 to save some loot. if not then i may just have to go warhawk. im just affraid cause it is a fairly new block that i havnt heard a single thing about it being used with boost and pushing its limits...
i need to come to a decision by december so i can have my motor for spring
also ive brought back the warhawk into consideration and would like yours and any other engine builder honest opinion on wether or not i should do a sleeved ls2 or the warhawk. i really want 427 cubes so im thinking that may be too much bore for an ls2 to safely handle boost and 1000+hp correct? if not then i would surely go with the ls2 to save some loot. if not then i may just have to go warhawk. im just affraid cause it is a fairly new block that i havnt heard a single thing about it being used with boost and pushing its limits...
i need to come to a decision by december so i can have my motor for spring
#11
now what exactly is an ERL block? this will be going in my 02 camaro and i will be using ls1 ET heads and a t88 turbo. like i said if it can be a 427 and have enough cylinder/block strength to handle 1000RWHP with boost then count me in. also if it is no more expensive then the warhawk block which i am still considering.
#12
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Block strength
There is no reason why an LS aluminum block won't hold a thousand horsepower if properly built and tuned.
The Darton sleeves, whether wet or dry, are made from the exact same material as used on their top fuel and funny car sleeves.
I have several dry sleeved LS2 blocks (twin turbo) making 900+ to the wheels. However, I much prefer the MID in an LS1 or LS7 race block for max. strength. The LS1 block has solid mains (no vent windows). There is an LS7 race block available with solid mains which would be just as strong and have steel main caps as well. I can dowel the caps on the LS1 and LS2 blocks as well to keep them from walking. The stock powdered metal caps are plenty strong.
To give you an idea of how strong the sleeves are: 1800cc Honda race engines making close to thousand horsepower with MID sleeves with stock iron two bolt caps. Nissan 3.5 liter V-6 making 2,200 horsepower with MID sleeves at over sixty pounds of boost. VT has the 5.4 aluminum MID making over two thousand. I have several of my wet liner Viper blocks in street cars making a thousand to the rear wheels.
All the above blocks have four fasteners around each cylinder by the way. Keep the compression ratio in line with boost levels for pump gas and you will be fine. If an engine detonates, it's toast, I don't care if it's iron or aluminum.
Steve
The Darton sleeves, whether wet or dry, are made from the exact same material as used on their top fuel and funny car sleeves.
I have several dry sleeved LS2 blocks (twin turbo) making 900+ to the wheels. However, I much prefer the MID in an LS1 or LS7 race block for max. strength. The LS1 block has solid mains (no vent windows). There is an LS7 race block available with solid mains which would be just as strong and have steel main caps as well. I can dowel the caps on the LS1 and LS2 blocks as well to keep them from walking. The stock powdered metal caps are plenty strong.
To give you an idea of how strong the sleeves are: 1800cc Honda race engines making close to thousand horsepower with MID sleeves with stock iron two bolt caps. Nissan 3.5 liter V-6 making 2,200 horsepower with MID sleeves at over sixty pounds of boost. VT has the 5.4 aluminum MID making over two thousand. I have several of my wet liner Viper blocks in street cars making a thousand to the rear wheels.
All the above blocks have four fasteners around each cylinder by the way. Keep the compression ratio in line with boost levels for pump gas and you will be fine. If an engine detonates, it's toast, I don't care if it's iron or aluminum.
Steve
now what exactly is an ERL block? this will be going in my 02 camaro and i will be using ls1 ET heads and a t88 turbo. like i said if it can be a 427 and have enough cylinder/block strength to handle 1000RWHP with boost then count me in. also if it is no more expensive then the warhawk block which i am still considering.
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
#13
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There is no reason why an LS aluminum block won't hold a thousand horsepower if properly built and tuned.
The Darton sleeves, whether wet or dry, are made from the exact same material as used on their top fuel and funny car sleeves.
I have several dry sleeved LS2 blocks (twin turbo) making 900+ to the wheels. However, I much prefer the MID in an LS1 or LS7 race block for max. strength. The LS1 block has solid mains (no vent windows). There is an LS7 race block available with solid mains which would be just as strong and have steel main caps as well. I can dowel the caps on the LS1 and LS2 blocks as well to keep them from walking. The stock powdered metal caps are plenty strong.
To give you an idea of how strong the sleeves are: 1800cc Honda race engines making close to thousand horsepower with MID sleeves with stock iron two bolt caps. Nissan 3.5 liter V-6 making 2,200 horsepower with MID sleeves at over sixty pounds of boost. VT has the 5.4 aluminum MID making over two thousand. I have several of my wet liner Viper blocks in street cars making a thousand to the rear wheels.
All the above blocks have four fasteners around each cylinder by the way. Keep the compression ratio in line with boost levels for pump gas and you will be fine. If an engine detonates, it's toast, I don't care if it's iron or aluminum.
Steve
The Darton sleeves, whether wet or dry, are made from the exact same material as used on their top fuel and funny car sleeves.
I have several dry sleeved LS2 blocks (twin turbo) making 900+ to the wheels. However, I much prefer the MID in an LS1 or LS7 race block for max. strength. The LS1 block has solid mains (no vent windows). There is an LS7 race block available with solid mains which would be just as strong and have steel main caps as well. I can dowel the caps on the LS1 and LS2 blocks as well to keep them from walking. The stock powdered metal caps are plenty strong.
To give you an idea of how strong the sleeves are: 1800cc Honda race engines making close to thousand horsepower with MID sleeves with stock iron two bolt caps. Nissan 3.5 liter V-6 making 2,200 horsepower with MID sleeves at over sixty pounds of boost. VT has the 5.4 aluminum MID making over two thousand. I have several of my wet liner Viper blocks in street cars making a thousand to the rear wheels.
All the above blocks have four fasteners around each cylinder by the way. Keep the compression ratio in line with boost levels for pump gas and you will be fine. If an engine detonates, it's toast, I don't care if it's iron or aluminum.
Steve
#14
This is the ERL block that Mike is running. He ran it in the yellow TA, and now in the new TA to 7.9 ish and won the LSX shootout street car challenge with the cruise and 3 consecutive passes. I believe it's now going in his street car while we test the new 5 bolt version for where the heads deflect at the exhaust port. We just introduced the 5 & 6 bolt version at SEMA.
Steve is running the same with a best pass of 7.79 to be #1 qualifier at the shootout, but starting with an LS2 block. Both blocks have the bay to bay windows and 1/2" head studs.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=#post5922992
Steve is running the same with a best pass of 7.79 to be #1 qualifier at the shootout, but starting with an LS2 block. Both blocks have the bay to bay windows and 1/2" head studs.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=#post5922992
#15
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ERL is a company that sleeves/prepares factory blocks for high hp use. We have tested a few different sleeved blocks with reasonable results, and the ERL prepared blocks work well for us in engines meeting your goals. We can build a complete engine to meet your goals, or sell you the parts that will perform for years to come.
Let me know if we can help.
Kurt
Let me know if we can help.
Kurt
now what exactly is an ERL block? this will be going in my 02 camaro and i will be using ls1 ET heads and a t88 turbo. like i said if it can be a 427 and have enough cylinder/block strength to handle 1000RWHP with boost then count me in. also if it is no more expensive then the warhawk block which i am still considering.
#16
Kurt, I'd have to say that is the single most conservative horsepower estimate I've ever seen. Isn't that around a 50% safetly factor? -Brian Nutter
#18
#19
ERL is a company that sleeves/prepares factory blocks for high hp use. We have tested a few different sleeved blocks with reasonable results, and the ERL prepared blocks work well for us in engines meeting your goals. We can build a complete engine to meet your goals, or sell you the parts that will perform for years to come.
Let me know if we can help.
Kurt
Let me know if we can help.
Kurt
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I would not have any fear running the ERL sleeved block in a daily driver. As for the Merlin, I have never used one. I have seen one at SEMA 3 years ago I think it was, but it did not have any water jackets that I remember. You should be able to find someone that uses them on this board.
Kurt
Kurt
now what would be best for longetivity an ERL LS2 block with a 4.125 bore or a warhawk block with 4.125 bore? i know this may be a tuff question as the warhawk hasnt been out long enough for this king of testing but as you are a professional and well respected engine builder what would you choose? not sure what kind of sleeves the ERL uses but if wet, then ive heard of possible leaks after a while and not good for cold starts? my car will be 70% daily driven and it needs to last as long as it possibly can. i know with this power goal there are no promises but i also dont plan on running at full boost 1000HP all the time.