jow02327

iTrader: (21)

hey guys iam putting my motor back together and planned on using TSP's break in method to do the break in but i keep coming up on this website http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm that says to do totally different than TSP does. any thoughts would be appreciated. iam breaking in a 347 11.5+CR forged internals with all new parts.

transAm-98

iTrader: (1)

I heatcycled mine, changed the oil and then drove about 1 mile to the dyno. No complaints so far.

WickEdSix98

iTrader: (4)

FWIW. The way we break new race engines in is warming them up on the dyno, re-set the valves(not needed w/a hyd.), a quick look for leaks or obvious problems, make 2-3 easy pulls, then give it hell.

racecar

My engine builder had a great plan. Start the motor on the dyno, immediately bring it to 2000, and keep it runninng for 25 minutes. First 5 let it run no load, next 10 low to medium load, last 10 varying load, just like driving. After the 25 minutes, shut it off, let it cool, change oil, adjust rockers (solid lifters). Then you are ready for dyno pulls. After about 10-20 of those 10 second dyno runs, the engine is totally broke in and ready to install in the car, ready to race. I did keep the rpm down the first weekend on the track.

ls2pontiac

iTrader: (1)

when i got my GTO with 3 miles on the odo, i let it warm up for a few miles...then i held the trans in first and watched the tach bounce off the rev limiter over and over again.

ArKay99

iTrader: (1)

I've learned that cylinder pressure is what seals the rings. They get sealed by the roughness of the hone. The roughness wears off after a while. After the roughness wears off, you can't seal the rings any longer. Here's what I did with mine because I couldn't get to a dyno. Gave it a heat cycle. checked for leaks, verified afr. Then drove it like I stole it, the best I could in NJ traffic, late night highway stuff. Slowed to 25 mph then stomped it until 90. Did that for the first 30 miles. Oil got hot. Changed oil and filter. Did it again for the next 50. I'm there now. I will put another 50 miles on it and change the oil and filter. Then drive it around town and highway but always vary the speed and occasionally give it a mash from 40 to 65-70. When I get 500 miles on it I plan to change the oil and filter then put Redline 10W-40 with the Comp Cams additive.

BTW, I used Shell Rotella 15W-40 for the break-in. I also used Comp Cams cam lube on the cam, lifters, and rockers. I also used Comps new break-in additive with the Rotella. The Rotella not only has ZDDP, but it has very low ash and is very detergent and keeps all the stuff that comes off the new surfaces in suspension better.

I've been told that a new production engine has tighter tolerances and may benefit from a more relaxed break-in, but a built motor is looser and you want to get those rings sealed the best you can as soon as you can.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I would do what the engine builder you went through told you. This could help in the future if there any issues. I honestly think if it is a well built motor you will not have problems either way.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

not to sound like a new bee. but what is heat cycle the motor mean?

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (13)

All heat cycle means is to get it up to operating temperature then let it cool back down