2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

ok.....dilema:

should i splurge on new forged H-beams, or if i could pick up a set of GOOD used titanium LS7 rod, should i get them instead for less than the cost of new Compstar (for instance) H-beams?

exactly how much are LS7 rods meant to handle? they would be going in a 11.5:1-ish NA LSX. shooting for 580-620rwhp...ballpark. MAYBE putting a 150-shot on much later down the road...


thoughts?

thanks,
ben

muscleSS00

get em I did for insurance

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

get what?

racecar

Buy the H and sell me the LS7. I would love to have Ti yum yum rods. They are super light. If you can find a set of TI that are good Ti, I would buy em.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

One thing you need to be aware of is the fact that the LS7 rods are 6.067 inches in length. That's shorter that stock LS1 rods at 6.098 and most aftermarket 6.125 rods. They might necessitate a set of custom pistons depending on what you're using them with.

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Beat me to it. Get the h-beams for sure. Remember the what and why behind the engineering on the LS7. Its the first of this platform with 4" stroke from the factory and able to spin 7K rpms. They did it for rotating mass reasons. The Ti. alloy they used is also cheaper than aerospace and typical high grade Ti. alloys.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

yeah....i knew it wasn't the optimum choice for rods, BUT...you gotta think, there are C6 Z06's out the running stock bottom ends making huge power to ground. if i built the motor i have in mind, it'd be in the 650/600 range at the flywheel. is that too much for GM Ti rods?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Think of titanium as light all you want. But dont think of it as a fix for a high hp build. Be it 600, 800, whatever. Spend what I thought was about the same money, or just get a set of eagle rods. I wont lie, but as understand from others experiences, I would personally run entry level eagle rods over what you are presenting. The only up side would be a lighter assembly, and unless you are spinning a solid setup to 8K+ rpm, it doesnt really matter. Be safe and run a normal setup thats proven. Dont let some "neat" rod be the part thats takes out a nice shortblock.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

No, it's not. For added insurance if you like you could send them off to Katech to have the stock bushings replaced with their bronze ones, but it's not cheap. I'd at least buy a good set of ARP rod bolts for them. How many cubic inches do you plan on running? What bore by what stroke?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Haha, now you beat me to this one by 1 minute. This is a very good point. In reality if that's all you ever plan on running you don't need to build this thing to take a thousand horsepower. You have to think though on what you plan on using this for. You mentioned in the other thread you'd probably throw a 150 shot on there. Well, what happens when you realize you can run a 200 shot with only a retune? Then, that you can run a 300 shot with a stand alone fuel system? Like xfactor_pitbulls said, "Dont let some "neat" rod be the part that takes out a nice shortblock."

There are everyday benefits to running a lighter rotating assembly though. You'll produce less wear and tear on the engine and it'll rev faster than a similar setup with the only difference being a set of steel rods. Like I said before the LS7 rods can be beefed up majorly, but largely they are untested at high HP applications. That and by the time you've had them beefed up they'll probably cost more than a really top of the line set of billet steel rods. There aren't too many people running them ***** out every day for years at a time like there are people with forged steel rods.

For 600 flywheel hp I'd run the LS7 rods with good rod bolts. If you ever plan on doing anything more than that though I'd really reconsider your choice.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

i was interested in them for their weight properties, and i really don't think the car would actually see a bottle, it's just a possibility. the only real reason i asked is because there's a set at a dealership that were taken out of a totaled Z06 with under 10K on it that an old man bought for his wife. they're in great shape, and i dunno what Katech charges to put bushings in, but i figured i'd have a decent set of rods for the cost of steel H-beams, and 200-300 grams lighter.

it's just a thought, i'm leaning towards a Compstar assembly

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

I am shortly putting together a 454 short block assembly for a Tech member using the GM Z06 rods. Katech bushings were already in the rods when I received them. The stock bolts leave much to be desired. Replace with ARP bolts. This is not a simple bolt replacement. The rods must be chamfered or the ARP bolt head will seat on the chamfer due to the larger shank diameter. This is easy to miss. Also the rods must be resized. They close up close to .002" with the better bolts.

Steve

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

hm...i wish we could fast-forward to see how much power this makes and how long it holds together. the rods i was looking at are no longer available, but i may come across some more.

i hate it when there's never a definitive yes or no answer. i'll always wonder "what if" if i don't use the rods, but it's better to take the safe way out and imagine how much the sight of a Ti rod sticking through the side of my block would suck

drain89

iTrader: (13)

What we need to do here is band together and convince Howards Racing Components to offer a powder forged 6.098 and 6.125 rod for the LSX family. The ones they offer for gen 1 & 2 SBC's are badass. 4620 chomoly forged sintered metal rods rated for 800 hp with only 585g recip. weight for 680.00 and they're US made ......sweet!
It would be a great affordable alternative to these chinese **** rods.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

YES, well put