Go Back   LS1TECH > LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LS7 PERFORMANCE > Generation IV Internal Engine
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Register iTraderTimeslips Photos Members Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Used CarsVendor Directory
Search

Generation IV Internal Engine
2005-2014 LS2 | LS3 | LS7 | L92 | LS9
Sponsored by
ERL Performance

Welcome to LS1Tech.com!
Welcome to LS1Tech.com.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join LS1Tech.com today!


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-07-2008, 11:11 PM   #1
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default VR1 Racing oil

Just wondering if it would be alright to run VR1 racing oil on a daily driver, or if not, what reasoning is there.

Thanks,
Adrian
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 03:11 AM   #2
Launching!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Dark Shadow's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: a place
Posts: 206
Default

dont see why not as long as its the right weight
__________________

NO Bitchassness!
Dark Shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 05:56 AM   #3
Race your car!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 49
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,296
Default

It doesn't have the detergents that a regular oil has and the oil life isn't gonna be anywhere near as good.

Race oil is that, race oil. IMO you're asking for problems putting that in a car for 3000 miles. If you are gonna change it every 1200, then yeah you could run it, but you're pissing alot of $ away at that point.
JL ws-6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 06:10 AM   #4
JBM
TECH Enthusiast
Garage is empty, add now
 
JBM's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 15
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 565
Default

Vr1 does have detergents and is very suitable for street use. The "not street legal" Valvoline is the oil with low detergent levels.
__________________
99 SS A3 Viper Red 8.29@164.49 all-motor
JBM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 06:47 AM   #5
TECH Resident
Garage is empty, add now
 
andrew69_04's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 142
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crete, NE & Firestone, CO
Posts: 823
Default

I've used it in 2 different f-bodys. its good oil. for the money you might as well run a full synthetic.
__________________
07 Z06 --Black of course!!
03 S10 Xtreme LS1 & T56 --(SOLD)
*92 Camaro RS-LS1 T56 swap...SOLD
69 Z28 LS1 T56 swap...9" swap..on hold!!
79 Z28 LS2 Auto swap & Resto in progress
andrew69_04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 07:15 AM   #6
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default

I'm just looking for a cheaper alternative to Royal Purple, that ***** just too expensive. Plus I'm finding that once regular royal purple gets hot it basically turns to water.
I did run Royal Purple XPR 20W50 motor oil, and it held up extremely well and retained its thickness.

VR1 isn't a synthetic motor oil?
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 08:24 AM   #7
Race your car!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 49
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,296
Default

What weight oil do you want to run? Reason I ask, is that if you need to run a thicker oil because of a built motor with looser tolerances (like mine for instance) there's one oil that's reccommended by alot of top engine builders because it has alot better properties, better metal content, etc.etc. that's really good for race engines.

You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.

If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
JL ws-6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 08:44 AM   #8
TECH Junkie
Garage is empty, add now
 
WKMCD's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 2
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 3,427
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JL ws-6 View Post

You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.

If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
Rotella is good for break in even though it doesn't have the levels of ZDDP that it used to. Valvoline NFS still contains substantial levels of ZDDP and is also great for the break in period. The problem with dyno oil is it doesn't hold up to high temps anywhere near as well as synthetic. If your making HP, your going to make heat.

My

Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
The Gentleman's Cruiser - Deceased 12/6/2013
Mild 427 - 576RWHP 530RWT WCCH Stage 3 L92's (Still with a very small cam)
Build Thread
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...b-c-d-e-f.html
WKMCD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 09:27 AM   #9
Race your car!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 49
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,296
Default

I change the oil after every trip to the track, the rotella is in ther for 2 to 10 passes and it gets changed as well as the filter.

No problems at all, I have over 150 track passes on thei motor all at 10 to 9 second speed, and probably 50 dyno pulls if not more.

Valvesprings once, oil and filter after every track trip, that's all I've done with it since it went together and it runs as strong today as it did the day it went together, compression/leakdown are great too.


What do I know.
JL ws-6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 10:19 AM   #10
9 Second Club
Garage is empty, add now
 
ONEBADWS6's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 22
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,474
Default

I just run German Castrol, have since day one.
__________________
402 LS2, 13-1 compression, EPS Cam, TEA TFS 245's and custom Super Vic intake.
ONEBADWS6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 11:20 AM   #11
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JL ws-6 View Post
What weight oil do you want to run? Reason I ask, is that if you need to run a thicker oil because of a built motor with looser tolerances (like mine for instance) there's one oil that's reccommended by alot of top engine builders because it has alot better properties, better metal content, etc.etc. that's really good for race engines.

You might laugh, but the Rotella Diesel oil that you can get at walmart and the like, is very VERY good oil. 15/40 is what I run in my car, I used to run castrol 20/50 which I had no problems with, but the rotella is alot better oil.

If you call around to some engine builders, you'll hear the same thing I am sure of it.
I was running 10W30 RP, but it just is not holding up well, after about 8k miles on the motor its just not a heavy enough oil, and once i make some good runs, idle psi drops down to about 30-35 with some flucuations, and i just don't feel comfortable letting it get down anymore. I put in one change of RP XPR 20w50, and my pressures were rock solid and steady, idle psi at 40-42 (at 750 rpms) and never dropped below 40 after as much WOT runs I could do.
Esp during the summer months, after some WOT runs, checking the oil, its almost like water....terrible. The XPR oil was MUCH better and held its flow much more consistently. This leads me looking for a cheaper alternative, thats why I'm curious of VR1.

This is a daily driver, 427, bearing clearances were around 28thou when motor was built (according to my build sheet), had proper breakin etc...

I do like the anti-scuff properties of the racing oils, but just need to know how they hold up to daily driving use
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 11:21 AM   #12
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default

Oh yea, i also don't want to change the oil every time I hit 7K rpms.
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 01:21 PM   #13
Race your car!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 49
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,296
Default

I change the oil like crazy because if there is ever a problem starting, I'll find it sooner then later.
JL ws-6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 01:51 PM   #14
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default

Understandable, but again, this is a daily driver, so, I won't be changing the oil every time I drive the car.

How does VR1 oil hold up? And is it suitable for daily driving use. I've gotten two different suggestions, i just need something more concrete.
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 03:07 PM   #15
FormerVendor
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 53
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Hobart, WI
Posts: 874
Default

Shell Rotella T (diesel) has two grades- non syn and Rotella T Synthetic. The Synthetic is 5-40 and is diesel GF-4 so contains ~1200 ppm of ZDDP (zinc) as it does not have to meet low Phos for gas cat converter standards. If you really want to zinc up add a pint of Red STP (thinner than the STP Blue) as additive which is really zinc rich and cheaper than GM EOS.

I use Rotella T as startup with a jug of STP and then go on to plain Rotella T Synthetic with no problems.

Last edited by See5; 09-08-2008 at 03:24 PM..
See5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 03:53 PM   #16
Launching!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Dark Shadow's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: a place
Posts: 206
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haans249 View Post
I was running 10W30 RP, but it just is not holding up well, after about 8k miles on the motor its just not a heavy enough oil, and once i make some good runs, idle psi drops down to about 30-35 with some flucuations, and i just don't feel comfortable letting it get down anymore. I put in one change of RP XPR 20w50, and my pressures were rock solid and steady, idle psi at 40-42 (at 750 rpms) and never dropped below 40 after as much WOT runs I could do.
Esp during the summer months, after some WOT runs, checking the oil, its almost like water....terrible. The XPR oil was MUCH better and held its flow much more consistently. This leads me looking for a cheaper alternative, thats why I'm curious of VR1.

This is a daily driver, 427, bearing clearances were around 28thou when motor was built (according to my build sheet), had proper breakin etc...

I do like the anti-scuff properties of the racing oils, but just need to know how they hold up to daily driving use

your expecting oil to last 8,000 miles with beating on it daily driving and that much heat out of your motor? thats asking alot for that oil. plus i would even wait that long between changes. the most i would wait is 4,000miles
__________________

NO Bitchassness!
Dark Shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 08:44 PM   #17
TECH Addict
Garage is empty, add now
 
Haans249's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 24
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 2,041
Send a message via AIM to Haans249
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Shadow View Post
your expecting oil to last 8,000 miles with beating on it daily driving and that much heat out of your motor? thats asking alot for that oil. plus i would even wait that long between changes. the most i would wait is 4,000miles
Ugh, where did you get 8K miles from? I would never run oil for 8K miles, and I don't beat on the car daily, I'm just looking for more consistency in the oil if I do decide to be a little spirited.

See5 has a good suggestion, although I can't run a 5w40 oil as thats not heavy enough, i would probably eat through it as well. But the additives are a good suggestion and is not something that I thought about.

I think I'll just try out some VR1 racing oil first and see how it holds up. If I don't like it, I'll give some Royal Purple 20w50 with the additives a try and see how that works.

Again, is VR1 synthetic based or not?

Thanks again everyone,
Adrian
__________________
Haans249 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2008, 09:19 PM   #18
Launching!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Dark Shadow's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: a place
Posts: 206
Default

sorry i read it wrong i thought you said you were putting 8,000 miles on the oil.
__________________

NO Bitchassness!
Dark Shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 04:48 AM   #19
Race your car!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Trader Rating: 49
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,296
Default

After seeing your bearing clearances and whatnot you probably should be running a 20-50 oil, my guess is the ring gaps are a little loose too, you might be getting a little fuel into theoil and watering it down.

In that case the VR1 may be a good idea, being a race oil it's designed to have this type of contaimination happen and might work out good for you.
JL ws-6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 11:52 AM   #20
Launching!
Garage is empty, add now
 
Dark Shadow's Avatar
 
Trader Rating: 0
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: a place
Posts: 206
Default

the RP 20w50 should be good. try that.
__________________

NO Bitchassness!
Dark Shadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2008, 11:52 AM
LS1Tech
Pontiac Firebird




Paid Advertisement
Reply

Tags
1030, 20, 20w, 50, content, engine, motor, oil, racing, synergen, synthetic, valvoline, vr, vr1, zddp


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.5.2
Advertising - Terms of Service - Privacy Statement - JOBS
Emails & Contact Details