ls3fbody

Hello everyone I am new to the LS world I have had plenty GM's and still have Gm vehicles but never a LS. So I started and new project I have a 88 Camaro that is a back half car fully tubbed in the rear short rear end 14 point cage and etc but my plans are to go turbo LS2 or LS3 haven't quite decided yet but im leaning more towards the LS3. The help on the combination to run with this setup would be appreciated thanks again!

JoeNova

Depends on goals, purpose of the car, budget, etc.

LS2 and LS3 are usually a bad starting point for a turbo build.

Aaron at SDPC

Like mentioned above budget, and goals of the car are going to play a huge deciding factor on exactly what direction you go.

ls3fbody

Please help me out why is the LS2 OR LS3 bad starting points JoeNova and Aaron my goal is to make my car go 9.99 or less in the 1/4mile

Aaron at SDPC

They aren't necessarily bad starting points at all. Plenty of guys that have exceeded what you plan to do with one. In comparison though an iron block based build is typically stronger, and more cost effective. Only draw back to going iron in my opinion is the added weight. For your goals though you really can go just about anyway you'd like.

ls3fbody

OK Aaron I got a nice roller for this project so if I do decide to go with the ls2 or ls3 should I have the block sleeved or just leave it along

JoeNova

I have a lot of problems with the idea of using an LS3 for a turbo build.

1. Very expensive.
2. Gen 4, not the most user friendly.
3. Displacement matters very little with boost.
4. The rotating assembly isn't any stronger than any other floating rod LS.

The LS2 is a better choice, but still falls in the categories of the above.

The truck engines are the go-to for boost for several reasons.

1. Much cheaper
2. Far more abundant
3. Gen 3 engines everywhere.
4. Easier to tune/work with stock ECU.
5. Several displacements to choose from.
6. Replacement parts are everywhere.
7. Drive-by-cable made easy.
8. I can keep going.....


Unless you have zero budget, the truck motors are the go-to for boost. Even the smaller 4.8 has powered half a dozen cars into the 8s in the quarter mile on a stock long block. There are more 8-second stock shortblock 4.8s than 8-second stock shortblock LS3s.

Aaron at SDPC

I definitely wouldn't go to the trouble of sleeving one. At that point cost wise you could be into an aftermarket block realistically. What does the car weigh? For a 9.99 pass in a back half Camaro which I imagine is pretty light a huge amount of power is not going to be required to reach your goal. So once again either of the blocks you mentioned will do the trick. Im not saying its the best way to go, because to me Id rather save the money and go to a stonger iron setup, but for what you are looking to do we aren't going to be putting the LS3 or LS2 blocks integrity into question. I guess the main thing to ask yourself is if 9.99 is going to be enough? How far do you intend to push this car? What power are you wanting to have the potential to safely make?

ls3fbody

JoeNova ok I see exactly what you are sayin so a 5.3 out of a truck would probably be the way to go

ls3fbody

Aaron the car weighs 3270 and I think you all have swung toward the truck motor. I would like to start at 9.99 but eventually work my way down to the low 8's and Im wanting to be around that 800hp range!

Aaron at SDPC

Then I would recommend the iron setup for not only the cost savings but the added strength.

JoeNova

I use an aluminum 5.3 truck motor that I have a whole $1200 in. That's about 25% of a used LS3. The ONLY thing that I can't use from an LS2 engine on this motor is the pistons. Everything else will bolt right up.

I throw an insane amount of boost at it, and it runs well enough that I drive it basically every day the sun is shining, even in the winter.

I've done similar with a $350 4.8.

If you want an aluminum block, the 5.3 is the way to go. There is a huge amount of material between the cylinders and you're not going to have strength issues. Anything bigger than the 5.3, I would probably have went with an iron block, especially since an aluminum 6.0 short block is typically twice what I spend on my entire engine.

ls3fbody

Aaron should I run with the 6.0 or the 6.2 and should I have the heads and cam done

ls3fbody

JoeNova so the iron 5.3 is the best way in your opinion and did you have your manifold custom made or did you buy one from somewhere and what turbo setup are you running and how much boost

ls3fbody

And what trans should I put behind it

JoeNova

Iron 5.3 with wiring, ecu, all accessories, runs about $600.
I use a stock driver's side truck exhaust manifold with a KB Racing turbo manifold on the passenger side.

I've ran 30 PSI on my stock aluminum 5.3 long block.

Best trans for big power? Depends.
Track only? TH400 or powerglide. Lots of street/highway use? 4L80e.

ls3fbody

wow and in that light truck what did you run? This is a track only car and I want to do fender exit exhaust and dump! and with your truck and a th400 with a brake shold work good

JoeNova

My setup is in a 69 nova. Has a 4" Fender dump and I drive it everywhere. Use a 4L80e because I can tune every single aspectacular of it in HPTuners, and I get converter lockup and overdrive. Not to mention it's almost completely stock and can handle the abuse.

ls3fbody

Nice man while we were talking I got a 5.3 here at my job out of a 11 Silverado im talking to them now about getting I would just need the harness and a ecu for it