Jemo

I'm definitely at home in the newbie forum because I don't know much. I talked to a company yesterday that re-tunes and the guy said very few of the places out there really know what they're doing when tuning and that he is one of the few in the country that does.

What does he mean by that and who are the tuners with the best reputation?

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

There are multiple ways to tune a car. You can either kinda "cheat" the system to acheive your desired results or you can properly calibrate your MAF and speed density tuning to reflect the correct AFR. Some people will just calibrate your wide open afr by hacking up the power enrichment tables but skip over all the important steps for tuning driveability. Also some people have "generic" tunes they just load into a car if it has similar mods, instead of tuning the individual car the way it needs to be done. The guy could just be trying to sell himself.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

know what your wanting before you go - just more hp? all around tune deleting sensors that are no longer used or match a stall converter? hell in todays world, better gas mileage? maybe you want to adjust gagues to a rim size change or something? know what you want and grille the hell outa any prospective seller itll save you heartache and $$. Alot of guys like the diablosport handheld because it allows YOU to tune your car to its specific setup. But be ready to learn a little about tuning yourself. Or you can look around for a respected local speed shop that has a dyno. IMO this is the best way - more than likely the tuner does just that all day every day, hes got expirence & best of all you will have a dyno sheet - basically a chart that allows you to say "look at how big my dick is on paper bitch". And not so much so if it aint running right. Either way you know. Hand helds and dyno tunes cost roughly the same +/- $100 or so. You decide.

Jemo

Thanks a bunch. Sorry though, I should change what I meant to say. I meant to say that I'm putting a pull-out LS1 in an old Chevy so I guess I need the whole 9 yards so the car will first start and then run decent (re-flash?). Not looking for a bunch of power, just good driveability. I just plan to change the cam, torque converter, and add long tube headers.

Any suggestions on who is good but not outrageously priced?

SS Enforcer

Buy yourself Efilive or Hpt and a wideband and start to ,learn to tune your own car and you won't have to pay for a tune ever again.

cheers

Jrp1978

iTrader: (10)

+1 on buying your own seems a few places i have been the give you that all mighty # and **** the rest of the car ! I made 500 hp but my car drives like **** ! Take the time learn yourself and you will save so so so much money !

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Well if the motor is going in an old school car i would have to ask are you possibly going carb or gonna try EFI on an older platform? If you have more expirence with carburation maybe that would be the easier way to go. Some dudes just have a thing against electronics (not me) and feel that is more simple. Either way, good luck & let us know how it turns out.

BTW - EFI live and HPtuners, wideband, EGT sensors after you add it all up that aint cheap - although invaluable to getting an exact tune if you go EFI.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

good, not outrageously priced Buddy if you ever find such a thing hell, u let me know.
as much as i hate to say it i need to - a pull out genIII elect. controlled motor in an old school platform is not the combo for driveability - it could take awhile if you want a nice street car - drag racing is another thing and nothing is cheap about that, hell a good cam & stall isnt cheap really.

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like an interesting project. What are your ultimate goals for the car? Is this a full frame off restoration or more plug and play? Do you have any future desires for forced induction of some sort? N20, Blower, Turbo? What sort of time frame are you planning on?

We do our tuning on a flat rate basis. Assuming all EFI systems on the vehicle are in proper working order, the wonderful thing about these EFI GEN III motors is max power and efficiency can be had in short order with the right tools and experience.

When a setup challenge outside of normal operation arises, we stop the tuning process and troubleshoot and repair on a hourly shop rate. For example, a leak in the exhaust system. When the system has been repaired we will continue the tuning process, all included in the original flat rate.

poconojoe

iTrader: (43)

I'm for buying your own programing software, but I'd do the swap first and the upgrades later. This will allow you some learning time with the software. You'll have all the swap changes under your belt, such as turning off the rear cats, Disabling the EVAP system, disabling the VATS, some guys turn off the EGR, so they don't have to tap in to their headers. You'll need to correct the tire size and rear end ratio, to get the speedometer to work correctly. Once you get the motor in and running you might decide you don't need any upgrades.

Bird

iTrader: (25)

I found a tuner who was willing to work with me - did the initial WOT and drivability tune on his dyno (mainly WOT with MAF calibration, etc) and then after purchasing EFI Live and a lot of study, I finished the drivability tuning (my choice) to where my car is very pleasant to drive. He's always been available to answer my many questions and his rates are very reasonable - he isn't one of those "your hour on the dyno is up" kind of guys - takes as long as he needs on the dyno and afterwards will take it on the street for drivability tuning.

Guess I'm lucky.....................

Bird

Jemo

Thanks everyone. This is a frame off. I've got most of the metal work finished and plan to take the body off the frame in a month or so. These swaps are pretty common in the tri-five cars. I'm definitely all for EFI.

I don't have any plans to do forced induction, nitrous, etc. Just the cam, torque converter, and maybe headers. It will just be a weekend driver for me and the family. We have an active car club in Dallas, too....so it will probably be driven to drive-in movie theaters, car shows, etc. I don't think it will ever be taken to a drag strip unless I am just curious to see it's 1/4 mile time a time or two.

Honestly, I don't have any interest in buying the software and learning how to use it. I'm still a little ways from needing the re-programming but the guy's comment just made me wonder. BTW, he asks $450 for a mail order tune. Seems high. I know there are a couple of tuners here in Dallas and I've read very positive and very negative comments about a lot of them on the Texas forum. I guess you'll never know until you try yourself.

Thanks for the help.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

There are good tuners, and there are bad tuners out there. Then there are some guys claiming themselves as tuners that are still learning.

I prefer Bryan Herter from PCM's for less personally as a supurb tuner. I could list more than a few bad tuners, but don't want to get in trouble, as many of them happen to be sponsers on this board.

FWIW, if you are already finding companies telling you "we will re-tune it for free if you have any problems", then that should be a warning sign to stay away.

IMO, there should be no reason for a "re-tune". If its tuned correctly, it should be tuned correctly from the initial tune. It should not take multaple attemps to make things right.

SSickLS1

iTrader: (2)

Dosent that sponsor **** suck . Its like - they pay us money so dont dare speak negatively or the smack down will be applied. All for higher res junk and flashey icons....(kinda like in communist politics saying the wrong thing may mean the "other" B word).

I agree that the tune should only need done once FOR THE SAME SETUP or something is wrong.

A true dyno tune should cost around $400 and a mail order a little less - HPtuners is $550 + laptop and time for just the software. Notice no one argued about the expense of wideband etc. despite its usefulness.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

if your doing a pullout then couldnt you just use all the stuff from the donor car and slap it on the shoebox? if' it's basically a stock setup there shouldnt be any tuning problems. by the sounds of what your saying your cam would be relativly mild so it would be a easy tune (going by drive in's cruises car clubs....places you arnt racing at)

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Bad tuner = Car runs bad after tuned

Good tuner= car runs good after tune and stays running good.

Thats the simple answer. There are many ways to tune a car and many ways to tune it right.