The "How many mods can you do before your 4L60/E bites the dust?" thread
10-20-2008, 10:31 PM
#1
The "How many mods can you do before your 4L60/E bites the dust?" thread For curiosity's sake, and also to help out the F-body noobs by giving them a better idea of what to expect, I figured we could use a real-world field service log on stock (unmodified) 700R4/4L60E's. 
So what's the "story" on your stock 4L60/E? How modded is the rest of your setup, and how much power are you putting through it? What do you primarily use your car for? (Daily driver? Street/Strip, track only?, etc.?) How is your stock tranny holding up?
And if you've ever broken a stock tranny, how many mods did you have at the time, and what were the circumstances involved in the breakage?
(Example: blew out all at once from a N20 shot vs. wore out slowly due to high mileage.)
Thanks.
So what's the "story" on your stock 4L60/E? How modded is the rest of your setup, and how much power are you putting through it? What do you primarily use your car for? (Daily driver? Street/Strip, track only?, etc.?) How is your stock tranny holding up?
And if you've ever broken a stock tranny, how many mods did you have at the time, and what were the circumstances involved in the breakage?
(Example: blew out all at once from a N20 shot vs. wore out slowly due to high mileage.)
Thanks.
10-20-2008, 10:51 PM
#4
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My old car started acting up @ around 60,000 miles. It would bang off the rev limiter between shifts. I band aided it with tuning. It was stock down tot he paper air filter at that point. Once I did heads/cam it blew out the rear planetaries.
10-20-2008, 10:55 PM
#5
Solve your problem by either getting a TH400 (BULLETPROOF!!!) or you can kill the electronic BS and just go build up a normal 700R4. If you go to www.eatmyshift.com they sell their Monster SS build package for the 700R4(includes almost everything) for $750.00 which can also be used for the "E" but you need different valve body gaskets. Some people say the 700r/4l60/E isn't strong, (which compared to Glides and 400s isn't) but my father (who taught me) is a professional trans guy who has rebuilt many a 700 that were backing everything from diesels to blown alcohol injected big blocks and he agrees with me and says that the trans will get about 125k stock. Remember HEAT kills transmissions. First thing you should do is get a good trans cooler and make sure you service it at regular intervals.
Last edited by 93Z2871805; 10-20-2008 at 11:10 PM.
10-20-2008, 10:57 PM
#6
My first LT1 I lost my trans at 69k and at that time the car was bone stock until about 65,000 where I installed LT's, ORY, Catback, CAI. At the time I was in high school and drove like a complete idiot (manual shifting and downshifting ALOT because I thought it was cool???) so that definetly had something to do with it. It was my DD with only 3 track runs ever on it.
My 4L60E in the '97 has held up so far with the SS3600, Cam, 1.6x '60 foots for about 4,000-5,000 miles and I don't at all baby the car. Its no longer my DD but I'm waiting for it take a dump on me when I take it out next summer especially with the added power. Will probaly be replaced with a T-56 to try something new but I've been happy with the 4L60E.
My 4L60E in the '97 has held up so far with the SS3600, Cam, 1.6x '60 foots for about 4,000-5,000 miles and I don't at all baby the car. Its no longer my DD but I'm waiting for it take a dump on me when I take it out next summer especially with the added power. Will probaly be replaced with a T-56 to try something new but I've been happy with the 4L60E.
10-20-2008, 11:04 PM
#7
It's hit or miss. Like you've seen some go easy and early. Mine on the other hand...
-Original trans
-117k miles
-Last 15k or so the car has been running 12.20s or quicker
-Cutting 1.60x short times
-3600lb raceweight
Trans has
-Transgo HD2 shift kit
-Summit deep pan
-B&M 26,000lb GVW cooler
-Fuddle 3400 stall
It still feels pretty healthy. I run the car hard and it sees the track often.
-Original trans
-117k miles
-Last 15k or so the car has been running 12.20s or quicker
-Cutting 1.60x short times
-3600lb raceweight
Trans has
-Transgo HD2 shift kit
-Summit deep pan
-B&M 26,000lb GVW cooler
-Fuddle 3400 stall
It still feels pretty healthy. I run the car hard and it sees the track often.
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10-20-2008, 11:15 PM
#9
LOL Great Sig!
BTW my STOCK trans went 50K with every thing from a blower to Nitrous and Heads and cam with every bolt on under the sun at one time or the other. It was still going when I Opened it up! It looked good inside to!
Tuning tuning tuning!
BTW my STOCK trans went 50K with every thing from a blower to Nitrous and Heads and cam with every bolt on under the sun at one time or the other. It was still going when I Opened it up! It looked good inside to!
Tuning tuning tuning!
10-21-2008, 10:42 AM
#12
I had one in my car that has 25K on it, blew it apart on a street race. I just had my built Hotcam LT1 at the time. I broke the Ring and Pinion at the same time too..lol It just hooked right up and blew. I shattered the Rear Planetary, and broke the back of the Sunshell off.
Since then I've shredded 3 different ones with my 402 Stroker, I said **** it and I'm puttin in a T56.
Since then I've shredded 3 different ones with my 402 Stroker, I said **** it and I'm puttin in a T56.
10-21-2008, 01:53 PM
#14
I’d blow a stock transmission right off the dealer’s lot!
Seriously, it depends on how hard you beat on it and some luck. It seems that some units are "built just right" from the factory and last for a zillion miles with daily beatings and some are lemons that are apart more than they're together. Stock units slip during shifts to make the shift smooth by design but this slowly eats away the friction material on the clutch packs. This eases the shock on the gears and shafts. A shift kit quickens the shift so there’s less slippage and heat generated at the cost of increased shock to the hard parts.
A stock 700R4 unit is no stronger than a stock 4L60-E unit. You’ll see no increase in strength or durability going to a 700R4.
A TH400 is certainly stronger but the mods pretty much reserve the swap for track cars with big axle ratios. A special crossmember and other things will be needed.
The next best thing to do is upgrading the 4L60-E to 4L65-E specs. Five pinion gear sets and stronger shafts. Some aftermarket upgrades are hardened input & output shafts, thicker, better drums and more clutch packs. An external fluid cooler is essential as heat kills transmissions. Don’t forget the converter, which can include hand brazed blades, heavy duty anti-ballooning plates, heavy duty Torrington bearings, high strength steel stator and heavy duty sprag.
Some guys have really gone to super duty with a 4L80-E or 4L85-E upgrades. These can be made to handle like a thousand horsepower. Similar chassis mods as a TH400. There’s an adapter cable that’ll allow you to connect your 4L60-E plug into the 4L80-E.
Seriously, it depends on how hard you beat on it and some luck. It seems that some units are "built just right" from the factory and last for a zillion miles with daily beatings and some are lemons that are apart more than they're together. Stock units slip during shifts to make the shift smooth by design but this slowly eats away the friction material on the clutch packs. This eases the shock on the gears and shafts. A shift kit quickens the shift so there’s less slippage and heat generated at the cost of increased shock to the hard parts.
A stock 700R4 unit is no stronger than a stock 4L60-E unit. You’ll see no increase in strength or durability going to a 700R4.
A TH400 is certainly stronger but the mods pretty much reserve the swap for track cars with big axle ratios. A special crossmember and other things will be needed.
The next best thing to do is upgrading the 4L60-E to 4L65-E specs. Five pinion gear sets and stronger shafts. Some aftermarket upgrades are hardened input & output shafts, thicker, better drums and more clutch packs. An external fluid cooler is essential as heat kills transmissions. Don’t forget the converter, which can include hand brazed blades, heavy duty anti-ballooning plates, heavy duty Torrington bearings, high strength steel stator and heavy duty sprag.
Some guys have really gone to super duty with a 4L80-E or 4L85-E upgrades. These can be made to handle like a thousand horsepower. Similar chassis mods as a TH400. There’s an adapter cable that’ll allow you to connect your 4L60-E plug into the 4L80-E.
10-21-2008, 04:12 PM
#17
I have 72K miles on mine, it has had a Vigi 3200 since 2003, I guess thats probably about 15K miles, has had a trans cooler for the last 30K miles. Hasn't given me trouble yet. I don't really beat on the car all that much, but it has its fair share of 1/4 mile passes, street and track.
10-21-2008, 05:57 PM
#18
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My 4l60e is still going im asuming its the stock one, Bought the car with 117k miles, blowed the engine at 135k miles. Raced it multiple times a week, constant beating on it. Still shifts very firm. It was stock for majority of them miles.
10-21-2008, 06:38 PM
#19
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