Drag Racing Tech - Thinking about dumping power steering. how?

Hey guys i am thinking about dumping my power steering so i can cut some more weight off the car. I dont want to buy a manual steering rack if i dont have to so can i just take the pump off and plug the lines on the cylinder? thanks guys. :chug:

I have my stock rack looped, I just cut the lines down near the rack (so there's a couple stubs left) and I put a hose on the 2 to connect them, and that's it. It's a little harder to turn, but with skinnies on it's not that bad.

I also took the rack and turned the wheel back and forth a bunch of times to get as much of the fluid out as I could, so there wasn't any fluid in there to have to push back and forth.

I have my stock rack looped, I just cut the lines down near the rack (so there's a couple stubs left) and I put a hose on the 2 to connect them, and that's it. It's a little harder to turn, but with skinnies on it's not that bad.

I also took the rack and turned the wheel back and forth a bunch of times to get as much of the fluid out as I could, so there wasn't any fluid in there to have to push back and forth.

So if you do this is it just the reservoir/pulley and lines you remove? Did you weigh it? If it is significant I'll probably end up pulling it but this thing just becomes more of a racecar every day :emb:

I pulled the lines, the pump and bracket off of the head, and I had the power steering cooler in the car, so I got the regular firebird/camaro upper radiator hose and ditched that thing too.


It was about 16 lbs total.

I also put a race electric waterpump on the car at the same time, and got the BMR alt. bracket, so there's just the pulley on the crank and the alt, that's it. The BMR bracket saved about 5 lbs too.

I also, put a motor plate on the car at the same time, that was installed with the stock motor mounts still on the car so I know the motor didn't shift foreward or backwards or side to side, I put a torsional support on from the block to the frame, then removed the stock motor mounts and stands off the stock k member. Now I can drop the headers in and out in about 5 minutes with the motor mounts out of the way, and the motor plate saved about 10 lbs from the stock motor mounts, plus the motor is more solidly mounted to the car.

Only problem is changing the front 2 plugs, I used to be able to reach under the header to get to them (passenger's side) and catch the old olug, and start the new one that way, but now I can't, it's more of a pita on those 2 cylinders, that's the only downside to the motor plate.

thanks thats what i was wanting to know. I am trying to put this pig on a diet,lol. how much is the BMR Alt. bracket? That may be the best way to go for me also since i already have the electric water pump. Do you remember what size belt i will have to go with? thanks again

The belt I had to play a game of trial and error, to be honest I don't even know what size it is, I found a 4 rib that worked and just bought 2 of them.

I can check the # when I get home and see.

The bracket I thinkw as 150 bucks maybe less I don't remember exactly, I ordered it thru thunder.

Here is a picture of what I did with mine. Two hose clamps and a double ended barb thing.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f131/tmacadam/0321082123.jpg

Sorry the pic sucks. You can see the hoses looped though.

I have my stock rack looped, I just cut the lines down near the rack (so there's a couple stubs left) and I put a hose on the 2 to connect them, and that's it..
Same thing I done

I couldn't come up with the link, but there is a huge thread on this subject in here somewhere. It even had lots of pics....