MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

I finished up my aps /408 build today and fired up the car with buddy there.
It started instant,ran great. We ran it maybe 5 minutes. Then checked oil and it was Milky white!
Antifreeze in the oil!
So reading a bit and three things can cause that..
cracked block..cracked head, blown head gasket or maybe mismatched head gasket.
I used ls7 head gaskets but am sure they were ok to run with my afr 225 heads and 408 iron block.
So don't think it was gasket mismatch. And checked heat gaskets were put on right ,torqued right..no white smoke out the back only in the oil..
Does that give any ideas?
Also considering its a dud turbo me and buddy have plan to test out that theory with plug on water lines to turbos. The 20 g do come with no water line housings optional so maybe can run them same way if it is water leakage into oil from turbo problem.
I am at the end of my ropes over this and am thinking of getting out of hotrodding, selling all my stable and buying a stock c6 and that would be the end of it.
Just getting too old for this crap. Today should have been my happiest day and now its my worst nightmare..

So if you guys have any ideas on how to test for cracked block, cracked head, bad turbo ..etc lets here the ideas.It was not fun putting engine in and turbos are very hard to get out. I assume only way to remove turbos is to drop k member . But don't want to pull turbos if its something engine. And pulling engine is not likely happening this season if ever.

ninety4three4

iTrader: (13)

well you could pressure test the coolant system first see how fast you are losing pressure as you pretty much know its a coolant leak, then cap off the turbo lines and see if anything changes when you pressurize the system, if no loss boom its your turbos, if not you could air up the cylinders and see which ones you lose pressure in which would help pinpoint the problem area, was the block/heads magnafluxed prior to installation? if you were beating on it and this happend it could be a lifted head but if you just start it and ran i dont think that would be the case, not claiming to be an expert here but its somewhere to start as no one else has posted up yet, im sure you will get some more input, good luck

Silver_TransAm

iTrader: (2)

More than likely it is a turbo. I just read a something on here from Bob at EPP about something like that with an aps kit. He put the kit on and also an electric water pump, then primed the water pump and checked the oil and there was water in the oil. Turned out to be a turbo. Maybe you can pm him and find out what they did to fix it. I'll try and find the link.

Silver_TransAm

iTrader: (2)

Here it is.

Quote from Bob-

Take a look at this build that we did. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=39 I don't see where a Ron Davis radiator would be a problem with the intercooler and it's plumbing. We used a Meziere pump on this build, which saved this engine. Before we fired up the engine for the first time after we installed the APS kit, we ran the Meziere pump to get the air out of the coolant system. We then checked the dipstick prior to firing up the engine, and it was full of coolant! It turned out that one of the seals in the water cooled turbos was bad, and the coolant got into the oil system. Had we not had a Meziere pump, we would not of known of this problem until damage had occured. Bob

Firechikn

iTrader: (15)

I think if you were pressurizing the coolant system via the engine, you might be able to see bubbles at the radiator cap. Like stated, you could disconnect the water to the turbos and run for a couple of minutes. Should be o.k. without water for a minute or 2.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Umm the turbos are mits 20gs and you can buy them with optional housings with and without water cooling so think the water cooling is optional...how optional not sure what the deal is there..Have all winter to send then out maybe to get upgraded.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well plugged the coolant to the turbos and changed oil and ran car for quite a bit after that..no milkly colored oil and no climbing up the dipstick..
So think have same issue as EP dud turbo ...hopefully not two dud turbos!

So going to run them without coolant for now and see how it goes. Was terrified it was my engine ,cracked block or head..So turbo is much better than engine to be fubar.

KWIKKAR

iTrader: (15)

You can check mark off dud turbo now in your poll. What a big surprize.
That ***** crazy didn't even run for 5 minutes and now you have a turbo bad. What happen to these turbos being great and all. Thats a big joke.

Sorry about your luck.. I now its alot of work and now you have to do it all over again. If anything you want it to be the passengerside one.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah not so good. I am trying to figure out which side is the bad one. Possibly put compressed air into them and listen for leaking out the oil side but that is still a pain to test with them in the car. From all my research they can be run no water cooling they come like that a lot of the time and the coolant ports are optional.

So it seems there is no other way but to drop the kmember to get them out. ??

or is there?

I do have cherry picker so its not too bad can support the engine easily with that but yeah still a pain taking kmember off . What can you do.

I would possibly do upgrade on mine like you did on yours. When are you getting yours back its been a long time already? Wanting to see your results.

My car is parked in a week anyway. Main thing is new engine seems ok think the 5 minutes didn't hurt anything lucky caught it fast like we did. Oil is clean and clear already from just one oil change. There is still some slight possiblity that it isn't coolant in the oil just break in lube or maybe the gm eos turning white like that?..I have no oil in my coolant and there was zero white smoke out the tailpipe. How can I tell 100% that it is coolant in the oil..from the smell maybe? Haven't smelled the oil yet.

And while I might be be of course pissed off to have a bad turbo I still have to say that there is a lot of high quailty parts in the aps kit. No kit is perfect..you should buy an sts or other make you will find that out pretty quick. There is lots to like in the aps kit .Manifolds are nice they should offer ceramic coated option on them though and the windshield washer reservoir, coolant overflow bottle, tig welding on the dowpipes and intercooler pipes and intake pipes..the tial gates..the intercooler ..that is all top quality first rate.
The install was brutal but the manual was excellent and we got thru it just took a lot of time to do.

Some problems are also do to think install mistakes. Easy to leave the cardboard in between the intercooler and maybe the condenser. Easy to put oil return fitting right over the little shipping plug.
And wondering if some guys have the one way valve backwards possibly.

I am not going to freak out on APS just yet. I am going to buy new intake pipe or upgrade my turbos not sure yet. The sway bar issue is simple fix. And if my car does overheat a bit then get better rad and better water pump. They did mention that in the manual.

But please keep me posted on how your upgraded turbos do. Are you also getting the smaller msd starter so they fit in there ?

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

I would also pull the valve covers and ensure there is no milky oil hanging around between the valves, give everything a good flush a couple times - cheap insurance compared to getting a blob of water in a bearing and ruining it.

Glad it turned out not to be something awful - I know that feeling and it sucks.

Jim