Are Torsen and Auburn posi's interchangeable?
#1
Are Torsen and Auburn posi's interchangeable?
I haven't found a clear answer on this. I have a '97 with the stock 10 bolt, 3.23s and the Auburn posi, and the posi appears to be shot (one wheel burnout). What I want to know is if a Torsen posi unit from a 99-02 car would be a direct bolt in replacement for the Auburn. I might be able to pick up a working Torsen unit for a decent price, plus I like the idea of there not being any clutch material that can wear out, unlike the Auburn.
Before anyone suggests a 12 bolt or 9", this is a mostly stock car, automatic, runs high 13s. The only thing it has that really puts any extra stress on the rear are the drag radials, but those are just Nitto NT555Rs, much less aggressive than say ET Streets. It might get a 2800-3000 stall at some point. So I don't really feel the need to drop over 2K on a rear, I think replacing the posi with a working unit will suffice.
Also, from what I've been reading it looks like the Tru Trac diff is not available for a stock 10 bolt, is this correct? Are there any other choices I should consider?
Thanks for any help.
Before anyone suggests a 12 bolt or 9", this is a mostly stock car, automatic, runs high 13s. The only thing it has that really puts any extra stress on the rear are the drag radials, but those are just Nitto NT555Rs, much less aggressive than say ET Streets. It might get a 2800-3000 stall at some point. So I don't really feel the need to drop over 2K on a rear, I think replacing the posi with a working unit will suffice.
Also, from what I've been reading it looks like the Tru Trac diff is not available for a stock 10 bolt, is this correct? Are there any other choices I should consider?
Thanks for any help.
#4
Thanks guys. One more question: would there be any issue with using a three channel torsen posi in my four channel rear? Obviously it has the reluctor wheel on the carrier itself, which would not be used. Would that cause any problems with fitment/clearance etc? For example, could the reluctor wheel hit the cover? Probably a dumb question but I want to cover all the bases.
#5
the carriers are physically the same sized, if you don't need the reluctor wheel due to the 4 channel vs 3 channel, you simply leave it off. The difference would be simply the shims used to center the carrier between a 4 channel and 3 channel.
#6
Now I'm confused. So I would need different shims to use a three channel carrier in my rear, even though it's the same size? Where do these shims go? The only shims I knew of inside the rear were the pinion shims, which as I understand it do not need to be disturbed to remove and replace the posi unit.
Also, does the reluctor wheel just pop right off? Here's a link to the Torsen unit I was looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-Tr...mZ390006991880
Hard to tell from those pictures how the reluctor wheel is removed.
Sorry for all the questions, I'm a noob when it comes to rear end stuff, I'm learning out of necessity. Thanks.
Also, does the reluctor wheel just pop right off? Here's a link to the Torsen unit I was looking at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-Tr...mZ390006991880
Hard to tell from those pictures how the reluctor wheel is removed.
Sorry for all the questions, I'm a noob when it comes to rear end stuff, I'm learning out of necessity. Thanks.
#7
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just leave it on. It clears fine. The shims are on each side of your carrier bearings, keep them where they are and you should be fine,just make sure you have some backlash (.008) aprox. If you need some larger or smaller shims let me know, I gots 100s of the damn things. ooh yeah, make sure its a 3 series carrier if you have 3.23 or lower gears!!