transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

Well after finding metal shavings in my oil and since my clutch is going out I decided to just let her sit and open up a new bank account solely for funding my car. First I planned on getting a pressure plate from autozone and a spec 3+ disk and breaking it in on my current motor for 500 miles so that clutch will be ready for the new motor.

I don't really have a power goal in mind for this. I suppose 400 rwhp would be a mark I would like to hit and don't think that it would be out of the question but I'd rather have something that makes power all over the board and not just peak numbers.


so far this is the list of parts I have come up with

fuel system:
racetronix fuel pump kit
delphi 42# injectors

rotating assembly:
stock crank
Eagle "ESP" forged h-beam connecting rods
Mahle forged pistons & rings

bearings:
main, cam, and rod bearings will all be coated Clevite

heads:
AI 200cc
arp head studs

cam:
custom grind from AI

valvetrain:
magnum NSA 1.6 roller rockers
guide plates
chromoly pushrods
arp rocker studs
ls7 lifters

intake:
professional products 58mm tb
ported intake

oil system:
new stock oil pump and pickup

timing chain:
cloyes double roller

misc:
keyed hub
gasket set
either street or dyno tune

do you guys see anything missing? if so what? and could anyone give me a ballpark est of what it cost them to rebuild their botom end in machine work?

oh and i'll be using non wear parts from this motor on my new motor like:headers, meziere water pump, etc

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

With a nice but not crazy cam you will easily hit 400 RWHP with that recipe. Throw a crazy cam in and there will be even more power. I sent you a PM regarding rebuild info.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

bump ttt

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

depending on cam size you could be anywhere from 410-450rwhp. I would go with another TB tho, the professional products piece is made in china.

The spec stage 3 is a strong clutch, if you do any racing plan on picking up a new rear. I would go with at least a 3.90 gear, 4.10 or 4.30 depending on the plans for the car.

I would add some support to the mains if you ever plan on spraying the motor, or if it will see a lot of high rpm use.

Otherwise your build looks good.

KY95Z28

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I would definately go ahead an add ARP Studs to the mains...otherwise everything looks pretty good.

You can get by with a smaller injector also, 36-37lbers will be more than enough.

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

not sure if u put down on your list a manifold...get it ported by AI "street/strip manifold"...
oh and a Th350

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

on and drop on a 150wet shot..

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

manifold porting added to the list and i love my t56..theres no way id buy an auto for a street/strip car..now if it was purely drag then sure

hence the reason im going forged rods and pistons

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

your build looks alot like mine...but im going th350 since my car is auto..im hoping to hit mid 10's with 150 shot....outlawZ did it, thats where i got my set up from..so will see if i can hit the estimated ets i want

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

with that 58mm tb i would add a SLP CAI or any type of good functional intake

goldmecham

iTrader: (1)

he has the best intake setup already no need for a cai. if it was a ss i would say get a cai but hes a ws6 and its a direct path in the intake like a ls1 car

texas94z

ARP hardware up and down.

$O$OE

iTrader: (14)

oh thats right i missed that..i mentioned it cuz i dont have the ram air..