GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs
09-24-2003, 12:41 PM
#1
GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs I am getting ready to do a head/cam swap and need to get some bolts. The question is are the ARP bolts worth more that the GM bolts? I have heard people having sealing problems with the ARP bolts. Also are the ARP studs worth the extra money( they are about twice the cost) over bolts on a 400 rwhp car? If they are are the 12 points better than the 6 pts?
I am trying to make some decisions before Thunder Racings sale on the ARP stuff runs out
PS also what head gaskets should I use, the GM 97-2001, the new GM 2001+ or some aftermarket gasket
Thanks for the help guys
I am trying to make some decisions before Thunder Racings sale on the ARP stuff runs out
PS also what head gaskets should I use, the GM 97-2001, the new GM 2001+ or some aftermarket gasket
Thanks for the help guys
09-24-2003, 12:54 PM
#2
Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs ARP Head Studs.....I WILL NOT do a head/cam install on a car that’s not doing/already has them.
They are:
1) stronger
2) reusable
3) torque to spec (not torque to angle)
4) make placing the head on the block easier
5) don't wear the block threads out
They are:
1) stronger
2) reusable
3) torque to spec (not torque to angle)
4) make placing the head on the block easier
5) don't wear the block threads out
09-24-2003, 01:36 PM
#3
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Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs New stock bolts work OK...
...my GM dealer has re-used old torque-to-yield head bolts for many years without issues....obviously, this is not recommended, however...
...my GM dealer has re-used old torque-to-yield head bolts for many years without issues....obviously, this is not recommended, however...
09-24-2003, 01:38 PM
#4
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Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs Well, I'll agree and disagree.
A head stud on 98% of the cars out there in my opinion is money thrown away. If you are planning on putting the heads on and forgetting about it, just put stock head bolts on. Stock is cheap, easy, and will be just fine for a heads/cam car or even a heads/cam/stroker/bored out motor. Once you start adding boost or spray, then maybe a stronger fastener is needed.
On the other hand, if you see yourself changing heads a few times in the future, or are going for an extreme setup that may require some removal and reinstall of parts before its all setup right, then go with an ARP bolt or stud.
As for making placing the head on the block easier...that sounds like a stretch to me. There are dowels in the block already and not once have I ever had an issue placing a head on the block. The rest of the reasons are valid and meaningful if you'll be using the bolts a lot.
A head stud on 98% of the cars out there in my opinion is money thrown away. If you are planning on putting the heads on and forgetting about it, just put stock head bolts on. Stock is cheap, easy, and will be just fine for a heads/cam car or even a heads/cam/stroker/bored out motor. Once you start adding boost or spray, then maybe a stronger fastener is needed.
On the other hand, if you see yourself changing heads a few times in the future, or are going for an extreme setup that may require some removal and reinstall of parts before its all setup right, then go with an ARP bolt or stud.
As for making placing the head on the block easier...that sounds like a stretch to me. There are dowels in the block already and not once have I ever had an issue placing a head on the block. The rest of the reasons are valid and meaningful if you'll be using the bolts a lot.
09-24-2003, 05:00 PM
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Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs I agree with JMX I have had my heads on and off twice using new stock GM TTY bolts. Do the sharpy marker trick to help out with the angle torque. Unless you plan on taking them on and off often or force induction the GM bolts work just fine.
09-24-2003, 05:18 PM
#6
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Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs Hi,
The ARP bolts are not only reusable but ARP says that the clamping load is higher when installed to their specs and with their lube. This means that your engine is good to a higher cylinder pressure before the gasket is at risk. The studs not only give a greater clamping load than stock bolts but are also easier on the block threads.
The twelve points are designed to give you greater clearance in the region of the nut. They do not change the load on the stud.
The head gasket you use in a function of the head casting you have. The early heads will not seal water when using a late gasket. If you have a cutout on the outside of the deck of the head near cylinder 3-6 then you need early style gaskets.
Some after market gaskets give you the opportunity to change the deck height to vary your compression.
Good luck,
Steve
The ARP bolts are not only reusable but ARP says that the clamping load is higher when installed to their specs and with their lube. This means that your engine is good to a higher cylinder pressure before the gasket is at risk. The studs not only give a greater clamping load than stock bolts but are also easier on the block threads.
The twelve points are designed to give you greater clearance in the region of the nut. They do not change the load on the stud.
The head gasket you use in a function of the head casting you have. The early heads will not seal water when using a late gasket. If you have a cutout on the outside of the deck of the head near cylinder 3-6 then you need early style gaskets.
Some after market gaskets give you the opportunity to change the deck height to vary your compression.
Good luck,
Steve
09-24-2003, 07:04 PM
#7
Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs
As for making placing the head on the block easier...that sounds like a stretch to me. There are dowels in the block already and not once have I ever had an issue placing a head on the block. The rest of the reasons are valid and meaningful if you'll be using the bolts a lot.
I agree that for the "average" H/C car, studs are WAY overkill, but I am a big believer in build it right the first time and never look back.
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09-24-2003, 07:47 PM
#8
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Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs I'd like to see you drop a head on the block with studs while the engine is still in the car. I don't think there is enough room under the cowl section for the head to get over the studs.
09-24-2003, 08:02 PM
#9
Re: GM head bolts, vs. ARP bolts, VS ARP studs
I'd like to see you drop a head on the block with studs while the engine is still in the car. I don't think there is enough room under the cowl section for the head to get over the studs.
really.......I have "managed" it on 3 different f-bodies on 4 separate occasions.....Vettes have even more room.... :p
Once a person actaully starts working on an LS1 F-body, they find out how much room there really is under that hood. The big "clog up" is the coil packs and headers. Once those are out of the way, you can just about do anything you want. The only thing I don't think you can do in the car is remove the #8 piston out the top. Other than that, you could basically strip down the entire motor in the car.
