Drag Racing Tech - Help me get to the 9's.

My previous goal for my car was a 10 second street car that gave up as little of the original stock driveability as was possible. I have accomplished that goal but the car is getting old now so I am shooting for a new goal of a 9 second street car that traps 140+. I've got some ideas for the engine (so don't worry about the 140+) but would like some chassis help here. The only undercar mod that has been done is the BMR crossmember that relocates the torque arm to the crossmember. I had to do this because I was tearing the trans. mount and was afraid the torque arm would rip out of the sheet metal bracket. My best 60' ever is a 1.71. The tires I would like to use are my MT 315 drag radials but I also have some MT 17" ET streets I could use (I want to retain the stock wheels). My questions:

1-Shocks? I would like something that could be adjusted so after the track it would be close to stock. Do I need to do both front & rear or just front?

2-Lower control arms + relocation brackets, panhard bar, etc.? Not really sure how these help, are they something I should get?

3-Torque arm? I still have the stock 10 bolt which I plan to retain until it lets go. Is there anything to be gained from this.

4-Anything else to help transfer weight and get it to bite?

I have a 6 point bar on order but have not done subframe connectors, would these help with the 60'? Weight is something I want to work on to because the car is very heavy being a convertible + probably 100 lbs. of blower stuff.
I know a 6 point in a convertible is only good till 10.99 but I'm hoping the tracks will be lenient. I REALLY don't want a 10 point but if I got to I got to.
Thanks for any replies, Tom.

Hey Tom, you can totally run that barge into the 9's. I went 9.40@143mph with my old YSi setup, was like 3500 raceweight. What pulley combo are you running? What size torque converter?

Didn't you have a manual rack, lightweight K member, A.C., ABS delete, lightweight brakes etc.? I run a 2600 converter (which I love) and a 214/224 cam in a 427 (idles like stock). I'm willing to give up some things to get her moving but I think I want to get the chassis working first to see what I've got to do from there. I talked to Mark and he said to start with some double adj. shocks front & rear and maybe lower control arm relocation brackets. I run a 2.75 Reichard pulley and have to put VHT on the belt to avoid slip. I may go to the RMCR cog drive.