OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

Well I spun a rod bearing a couple months back and now my motor is being sent off for a rebuild by a friend, im also having the clutch replaced. I have done alot of searching and this is what I have come up with so far, in parts that I would like to order. Please let me know if these are good parts to purchase and if they fit my application. Also let me know if there is anything farily cheap to do that I have missed. Thanks for the help

ARP Main Stud kit(Line Hone Needed?)
ARP-234-5501
Billet Steel Girdle (Correct Girdle?)
CNC-0935000

Good Idea?



ARP Connecting Rod Bolts(Good idea?) Resize Rods Needed?
ARP-1346005
ARP Head Bolts
ARP-234-3701
ARP Pressure Plate Bolts
ARP-130-2201
ARP Flywheel Bolts
ARP-200-2807

Piston Rings
Brand, Size?

Head Gaskets
Victor Reinz 5898(looking to bump compression a little, good brand, thickness?)

Clevite 77 "p" Series Bearings
-Main Bearings
-Rod Bearings
-Cam Bearings

Oil Pump GM 12555884
Pick Up Tube 12550042
Melling Oil Pump Driveshaft Is-55e

Ram Powergrip Clutch kit#798-98516
Re-surface Flywheel
GM LT1 Master and Slave cylinder pre-bled
Rear Main Seal- Felpro QBS40520
Pilot bushing(Best one?)RAM BU656

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

No one?

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

ok my opinions main studs not bold make it a 4 bolt main as well (unless its a simple rebuild) hell fire rings i was told r great as well as felpro gaskets. and i would never resurface a factory flywheel. the factory ones r iron i believe? and wen u resurface them u make then thinner and hav a good chance of crackin/shattering and causing a problem go with a billet steel one spec has the best price. r u havin the block bored at all?

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

No im not having the block bored, im basically trying to do a cheap rebuild of the engine just replacing bearings, pistion rings, Oil pump, etc. My engine guy said he would be cleaning the motor to get rid of the tiny metal shavings in it (disassembly of the entire thing). I will ask him about the 4 bolt conversion next time I talk to him, that was one thing I was going to look into if its not to expensive to do. But if it is would the main studs be A good idea I hear you have to get a line Hone or you have to use stock bolts. Thanks for the help, now even more people chip in here!

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

what about all the valvetrain components r you replacing them or just reusing stock? id probably replace the lifters and timing chain. dont know the miles it had but those r 2 things to think of.

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

Only 24,000 miles actually, I was going to re use all the stock valvetrain for now. Then when its running do a cam swap and just switch it all then, Just dont have enough cash to do it all at once.

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

alright 24k isnt much at all i just thought if it was the usual 100 some thousand that you should do those things. good luck with the rebuild

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

thanks, im planning on ordering the following in the next couple of days.

Oil Pump GM 12555884
Pick Up Tube 12550042
Melling Oil Pump Driveshaft Is-55e


Does everyone like this combination? does it work? Or is there a different pump, pickup and drive shaft that I should be getting?

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

Anyone know there oil pumps.. *Cricket*Cricket*

please help! need opinions on this I would like to order the parts tonight if there correct.

TravisTA

just get a melling M-55hv with the larger 3/8 pick up hole option and the pick up to match of course. and the steel melling oil pump shaft.

OlMastaScrilla

iTrader: (3)

Thats the High volume, High preesure one though wont that be to much for my stock oil pan?

01fxst

I did a fair amount of research on this. The high volume pump needs a larger oil pan. I went with the stock volume melling pump with a high pressure spring. I picked up the Melling Select 10554 pump from Summit. It comes with the replacement steal shaft with steal coupler.

When we pulled the pan to replace the pump we found shavings galor .... I'm rebuilding the motor now. I'm still going to use that pump since I don't want to upgrade to a larger pan. I'm saving that for when I step up to the Golen longblock.

TravisTA

It will be fine unless you do sustained high RPM driving, but I doubt that is what you will do with the car. You wont suck the pan dry unless your bearing clearances are very loose to the piont that they just puke the oil out instantley, but if that was the case you wouldent have hardley any oil pressure anyway.

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

I would have to say if you have a quality machine shop let them do what they feel is needed based of your goals. This would probably make them stand behind it as well.

The ARP head bolt would be the extent of the basic rebuild for me. The other items are good if the budget allows, but personally I would put it towards a cam package. This would be the time instead of tearing back into the motor in the car later.

wait if the budget doesn't allow it to be all done at one time

NOTE: make sure to have the pickup tube welded to the pump for added insurance

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I would put in a junkyard shortblock before going too budget on a build. GM built us a good shortblock and it is not cheap to equal or better it.

Stuff like Golen is even often a step backwards reliability wise.