screming_z28_95

i was looking through my jegs magazine and i notcided that lakewood makes lca but these ones are called traction action lca supposebly helps hook better any body heard of them or used them?

ryeguy187

i use just the regular lca's and they work great, got rid of all my wheel hop... btw the regular ones are just the black part without all the other crap involved hehe

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

i use the regular Lakewood LCA seem to be working good for me,3 years..

screming_z28_95

well i have edelbrocks now im just trying about to try ne thing to get my car to hook better any sugestions

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

i have the regular lakewood lca's their nice and a good price

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

buy a pair of DRs, nittos last a good amount on the street..

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

I use those with all the junk removed. To run that set-up you remove the TA. Didn't know that when I purchased them. Just buy some good LCAs.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

if you already have aftermarket pieces, its time to buy parts elsewhere. one companys setup isnt going to hook better than another. they are all the same design.

some relocation brackets might help if you dont already have those....

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

The hit will be softer with the torque arm in place. You just need to modify the front bushing on the torque arm to allow a little movement.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

They work fine when properly set-up. I would say that a chassis mount torque arm is a better idea. I have tried several different traction bars over the years and none worked better than an aftermarket torque arm.

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Didn't know that. But I didn't care for the fact that the rear of the car felt like it had no movement at all. You couldn't even push the backend down a 1/4 inch. I doubt a little play at the front of the TA would have helped that much, but maybe I'm wrong. I also started hearing of problems with the brackets breaking, so I decided against the whole idea. I do like my Spohn though, and I highly doubt I'll ever have enough HP to break that piece.

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like it was in a bind. I managed 1.41 sixty foot times with mine on my Formula , but had problems with the brackets cracking (approx. 380 rwhp N/A). I switched to Pete-Z bars after that and had similar sixty foot times, but without the bracket failures. I have since gone to a BMR Extreme torque arm and non-adjustable lower contol arms.

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Maybe yours was one of the ones I heard about. Nice to hear your cutting such good 60ft. times. I can only dream at this point.

screming_z28_95

so in other words get an adjustable TA i just need to get my car to hook im puttin a stroker motor in it in the next week or two and i have a 355 pushing like 320 and i cant even get that to hook right now i mean i have after marker panrod bar sway bars lca and a non adujstable torque arm with some comp enginereing shocks any ideas at all

Z-RATED94

iTrader: (6)

Yes, you need a adjustable chassis mounted TA. Through in some good tires, like the MT street radials and go from there. It would help if you had some 15 inch rims too, more sidewall. Ditch the front swaybar for the track.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

I have a set of these. They work pretty nicely. But with the price tag it's no wonder not alot of these were sold. I bought mine used. I like them I just didn't want to have to mess with adjusting them. That's why they are sitting in my garage collecting dust.

Mighty Whitey

I too have the regular lakewood LCA's on my car. I originally planned on boxing my stocker's, and adding urethane bushings, but would have had a considerable amount of money in the whole deal, and still had sh*tty looking stock LCA's

not to rain on your parade or anything, but there are numerous 9sec and to a lesser amount, 8sec cars running stock-style suspension. so the Torque arm CAN be your friend.