Report on my 6.6/402 LS2 Firehawk !!! And it has LOTS of bottom torque
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Report on my 6.6/402 LS2 Firehawk !!! And it has LOTS of bottom torque
UPDATE - DAY 1 with TEXAS SPEED 402 LS2: FINALLY after over 2 months it's back and running. It was a reeeeally good Christmas present I've got most of the part-throttle tuning finished already; took about an hour or so.
Put in a new OZ700 because my other one was over 3 years old and down to the bolts. LS7 lifters, and I have to send the Meziere to Cali for repair (4 years old now). A few other baubles that needed replacing.
The TSP ported LS6's were transfered over to the new motor which had dual .660 lift springs etc. I put a Vindicator in for the next month whereas I had the MS4 previously which was trashed when the head gasket blew on the 346; unfortunately I don't want that high a lift anymore . . . .651 lift was more than I want in a cam for my new motor.
I have a couple of head choices that I'll decide upon in late January and a camshaft to match the heads. I'll get my FAST ported at that time as well. I've had my FAST 90/90 for a few years now and I'm very satisfied with it's performance.
I'm amazed at the increase in forward thrust below 3K rpm's at part-throttle; it's a serious increase over the stock displacement set-up I had previously. I was surprised because I'm running 1 7/8" stepped to 2" Kooks . . . most people post that headers this big wouldn't be good for torque under 2500 rpm's.
The oil pressure is lower than on my 346; 20-25 at a warm idle but a pleasant 40-45psi at part-throttle. Is that because of the break-in oil? I transferred my TSP ported LS6 oil pump over since it was working fine. But the guys forgot to put my dipstick back in LOL . . . I'll pick that up this weekend
I'm not gonna go WOT until I top 1K miles so I won't have a dyno graph to post until then.
Christopher
UPDATE - FAILURE - DAY 2 WITH 89.8 MILES on the new motor: Tapping noise from the engine. Cause unknown. Cruising at 40 mph at ~2100 rpm's - motor stumbles hard - CAR DIES. Repeated attempts at restart; cranks but NO FIRE. Being towed back to the shop just TWO DAYS after I picked it up FROM the shop after 2 months
Put in a new OZ700 because my other one was over 3 years old and down to the bolts. LS7 lifters, and I have to send the Meziere to Cali for repair (4 years old now). A few other baubles that needed replacing.
The TSP ported LS6's were transfered over to the new motor which had dual .660 lift springs etc. I put a Vindicator in for the next month whereas I had the MS4 previously which was trashed when the head gasket blew on the 346; unfortunately I don't want that high a lift anymore . . . .651 lift was more than I want in a cam for my new motor.
I have a couple of head choices that I'll decide upon in late January and a camshaft to match the heads. I'll get my FAST ported at that time as well. I've had my FAST 90/90 for a few years now and I'm very satisfied with it's performance.
I'm amazed at the increase in forward thrust below 3K rpm's at part-throttle; it's a serious increase over the stock displacement set-up I had previously. I was surprised because I'm running 1 7/8" stepped to 2" Kooks . . . most people post that headers this big wouldn't be good for torque under 2500 rpm's.
The oil pressure is lower than on my 346; 20-25 at a warm idle but a pleasant 40-45psi at part-throttle. Is that because of the break-in oil? I transferred my TSP ported LS6 oil pump over since it was working fine. But the guys forgot to put my dipstick back in LOL . . . I'll pick that up this weekend
I'm not gonna go WOT until I top 1K miles so I won't have a dyno graph to post until then.
Christopher
UPDATE - FAILURE - DAY 2 WITH 89.8 MILES on the new motor: Tapping noise from the engine. Cause unknown. Cruising at 40 mph at ~2100 rpm's - motor stumbles hard - CAR DIES. Repeated attempts at restart; cranks but NO FIRE. Being towed back to the shop just TWO DAYS after I picked it up FROM the shop after 2 months
Last edited by The Dragon; 12-25-2008 at 08:48 PM.
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Thanks guys! I'm excited
My bad about the photos Jay . . . I was just focused on getting my ride back before Christmas and then I had last minute shopping to do. But photos uploaded this weekend definitely
Jay . . . Quick question. Do I use the same oil filter or is it a different size now? I'll be using the Valvoline dino oil and makin changes often during break-in so I gotta get filters.
Christopher
My bad about the photos Jay . . . I was just focused on getting my ride back before Christmas and then I had last minute shopping to do. But photos uploaded this weekend definitely
Jay . . . Quick question. Do I use the same oil filter or is it a different size now? I'll be using the Valvoline dino oil and makin changes often during break-in so I gotta get filters.
Christopher
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Thanks guys! I'm excited
My bad about the photos Jay . . . I was just focused on getting my ride back before Christmas and then I had last minute shopping to do. But photos uploaded this weekend definitely
Jay . . . Quick question. Do I use the same oil filter or is it a different size now? I'll be using the Valvoline dino oil and makin changes often during break-in so I gotta get filters.
Christopher
My bad about the photos Jay . . . I was just focused on getting my ride back before Christmas and then I had last minute shopping to do. But photos uploaded this weekend definitely
Jay . . . Quick question. Do I use the same oil filter or is it a different size now? I'll be using the Valvoline dino oil and makin changes often during break-in so I gotta get filters.
Christopher
Same filter dude
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Broke down
Thanks dude.
The point is moot now since I didn't make it to my first oil change
Started to hear a ticking noise AGAIN Sounds like the valvetrain . . . Strange huh???
NO FIRE.
Cruising at 40 mph at 2000 rpm's and car shut off dead. Coasted to the side of the road and here I've sat for over an hour trying to restart with 0 success while I wait for a tow.
It keeps cranking but won't turn over. I'm fairly certain the no fire issue is MAF related but it does not explain the ticking on my brand new forged TSP 402.
The point is moot now since I didn't make it to my first oil change
Started to hear a ticking noise AGAIN Sounds like the valvetrain . . . Strange huh???
NO FIRE.
Cruising at 40 mph at 2000 rpm's and car shut off dead. Coasted to the side of the road and here I've sat for over an hour trying to restart with 0 success while I wait for a tow.
It keeps cranking but won't turn over. I'm fairly certain the no fire issue is MAF related but it does not explain the ticking on my brand new forged TSP 402.
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Hard to say why it just stopped. But I will say that your oil pressure seems unusually low. I'd start pulling things apart if I were you. I haven't seen any LS1's running as low as 25 psi
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Thanks dude.
The point is moot now since I didn't make it to my first oil change
Started to hear a ticking noise AGAIN Sounds like the valvetrain . . . Strange huh???
NO FIRE.
Cruising at 40 mph at 2000 rpm's and car shut off dead. Coasted to the side of the road and here I've sat for over an hour trying to restart with 0 success while I wait for a tow.
It keeps cranking but won't turn over. I'm fairly certain the no fire issue is MAF related but it does not explain the ticking on my brand new forged TSP 402.
The point is moot now since I didn't make it to my first oil change
Started to hear a ticking noise AGAIN Sounds like the valvetrain . . . Strange huh???
NO FIRE.
Cruising at 40 mph at 2000 rpm's and car shut off dead. Coasted to the side of the road and here I've sat for over an hour trying to restart with 0 success while I wait for a tow.
It keeps cranking but won't turn over. I'm fairly certain the no fire issue is MAF related but it does not explain the ticking on my brand new forged TSP 402.
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The new SDPC 427 in my DD Formula would go down to 25psi oil pressure in heavy traffic at stoplight when running Mobil 1 10-30, not down to 20 psi though. It would be fine(40- 45psi) at cruising speed and part throttle. I've ran Valvoline VR1 20-50 and the oil press would stay at 45-55psi at warm idle and always at 60ish cruising/part throttle. I have Mobil 1 10-30 in it now w/ Lucas Synthetic Oil additive and the press stays at 40psi warm idle and 45-55psi cruising/part throttle.
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Dinner right now so post quick and again later once I start pulling things.
Reflashed PCM and still no fire. Gonna put a stock maf on and try again. Only code was MAF 101. The noise before shut down might be the LS7 lifters settling . . . Won't know yet.
Reflashed PCM and still no fire. Gonna put a stock maf on and try again. Only code was MAF 101. The noise before shut down might be the LS7 lifters settling . . . Won't know yet.
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Wasn't the MAF; I put the stock MAF with my old Direct Flo Lid and the same no fire conditions.
As many of you mentioned already, it must be fuel or spark related. I'm leaning more towards a possible fuel delivery problem I already spoke with my mechanic and it's being towed back to the shop first thing in the morning.
When this is all sorted out . . . I'm gonna tune it in Speed Density and be done with it.
I'm gonna keep updating the initial post as well.
As many of you mentioned already, it must be fuel or spark related. I'm leaning more towards a possible fuel delivery problem I already spoke with my mechanic and it's being towed back to the shop first thing in the morning.
When this is all sorted out . . . I'm gonna tune it in Speed Density and be done with it.
I'm gonna keep updating the initial post as well.
Last edited by The Dragon; 12-25-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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WTF! Wow man, that sucks. Hurry up with an update. Crank sensor can do that too.
You remember we had a similar problem with your car? What did that end up being? A ground or something?
Good luck brother, everything will be fine.
You remember we had a similar problem with your car? What did that end up being? A ground or something?
Good luck brother, everything will be fine.
Last edited by JayplaySS; 12-26-2008 at 04:12 PM.
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FYI -A bad cam sensor will not cause a no start problem as long as the PCM can still receive the crankshaft signal. It will cause a hard start, but not a no start. I agree about verifying all of the grounds have a solid, tight connection.
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Check the single wire that comes off the alternator, it may have broken off or is about to, that was a problem I had. I heard a loud ticking and it turned out to be the wire arc. Although mine did start after it sat for a while, then it would run great until the battery could not sustain it and died out again. check you battery also to make sure it isn't bad.
Check the crank sensor also.
Check the crank sensor also.