ss427ci

iTrader: (3)

I am changing to an LS6 cam and I already have NGK TR55 plugs, so I'm not changing them. Is there really a need to take them out during the cam/spring install or is that just if you want to change them??

gomer

iTrader: (13)

You need to take them out in order to pressurize the cylinders while changing valve spings if you are leaving the heads on the car.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

not if you do the TDC method

gomer

iTrader: (13)

But you'll get hemmaroids trying to turn the motor over to do the TDC method with the plugs in!!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

lol, ya, i kinda forgot that they stick out into the cylinder :doh:. im using the TDC method now for my cam swap, couldnt get the compressor method to work. and for the record my plugs are out

jmX

It takes maybe 10 minutes to remove plugs, and it makes the TDC method MUCH easier, so yes...definitly I suggest removal.

Dave Carney

You don't have to remove them. I left them in, and turned the motor over by hand with a standard 1/2" drive ratchet. Heck you aren't trying to start the car! lol...., you only need too turn the crank bolt a quarter turn after each 2 cylinders are done to get the next 2 to tdc, that's only about 5 teeth on the crank sprocket. It does not take superman strength. The piston does not hit the spark plug, changing valves or running the engine, tdc is tdc.....

Removing and then reinstalling the plugs is a bigger job then 10 minutes for sure....

jmX

I definitly do not think it takes superman strength to turn the motor over, but its a lot easier to get precisly where you need to be with the plugs out. Once the valve covers are off and stuff is out of the way, if it takes more than 10 minutes to remove plugs then something is wrong.

Everybody does stuff their own way I suppose.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

LMAO at Gomer.

Dave Carney

Do you reinstall them afterwards? Is that in the 10 minutes? Either way, I'd like to see it done in 10 minutes!! I've already done it without removing the plugs and it is SIMPLE, and it's not difficult at all to get to precisely where you need to be.

Remember back in the day when the JMX install doc suggested discharging the a/c system? Guys try things, they think outside the box, come up with better and faster ways. Same thing here, no reason, waste of time and effort. Absolutely pointless for TDC method.

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

definately not pointless.....
you get it at TDC...you cant drop a valve....
definately you can do everthing with the plugs in...but its easier to do it with them out.....not only that....but pull 'em out and check them for deposits and stuff...double check the gap while you're at it...no necessary to replace if they're still new....but if they're not new...then just do it so you dont have to in a couple of months

air compressor method works...if you have an air compressor..or want to spend the money to rent it.... and you have to buy the fitting too????

save money...do TDC....not that hard...not much time involved...more time involved in removing the spark plug...putting in the fitting...letting some air in...letting air out....putting back in spark plugs.....
TDC = Easy

Dave Carney

Soundman you need to re-read my reply I think I whole-heartily endorse the TDC method, just not the removal of the spark plugs to do it.

ss427ci

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys, Yea I'm doing the TDC method and its a nice workout. I'll just leave the plugs in.

jmX

1) I never had an install doc that recommended discharging the A/C.
2) I personally pull the plugs out so that not only is it easier to turn the crank to exactly where I want without having to compress air, but I also can check the condition of the plug as well as stick something in the hole to make 100% sure the piston is up top.

I'll time myself sometime as far as removing plugs. I'd say 10 to remove, 10 to install. I never said one way was quicker than another, just that the payoff is worth the time, and thus, I recommend it.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I second this! I agree 100%! Like Dave says, think outside the box guys, don't be like sheep!

And may I add another tid-bit to it . . . if you let the valve hit the piston when you compress the spring to pop loose the retainer, you even have a "fail safe" in case you screwed up and didn't get the piston for that cylinder at TDC. You will know how far to compress the spring after you've done the first cylinder . . . if the retainer hasn't popped off the keepers by then you know you screwed up and will drop a valve if you continue without rechecking TDC.