SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

im purchasing all the parts needed for my cam swap soon so i can jump on it the second i have time. i also plan on doing my 150k mile head gaskets and want to replace the head bolts. i just wanted to make sure that these are the right ones. or atleast ones thatll work

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

if anyone has any other recommendations i have an open ear! thanks

blake110106

iTrader: (9)

If I was you I would throw in the extra money for the stud kit. Especially if your doing the stuff with the engine still in the car and you will be alone. it a PITA trying to line the heads up to start the bolts while keeping the gaskets inline also.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

would i have the room to pull the heads off the studs while its still in the car ?? id rather have a hard time lining up holes rather then not get my heads on and off. i also heard somewhere about studs haveing air or something getting trapped and they come lose ? can anyone chime in on that ?

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Have you ever taken heads off an LT1 before? Stud kits make it a lot harder to install/remove heads with the engine in the car. Also why would it be difficult to line up the gaskets/heads when there are dowels on the block for them?

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

ty for chiming in. if it were my 82 impala studs all the way. but i dont plan on dropping the engine ANYtime soon. id figure studs would make it near on impossible to pull the heads off the engine while its still in the engine bay

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

personally I bought the factory replacements through scroggin dickey for 26 bucks and i haven't tried to fit a socket on them but I am almost positive I can reach head bolts without removing valve train

blake110106

iTrader: (9)

Im never pulled heads off an lt1. Have did so on other cars tho. Not all egines have dowel pins on the block for the heads which is why I brought it up. When I end up pulling the head off this car. im going studs. I was just saying what I would do.

JB_97ws6TA

iTrader: (6)

i just installed heads by myself today, the dowels are huge, studs are a waste IMO

2XR95Z28

iTrader: (4)

those are the ones i just used the other day to put my heads back on, good product. Worked well for me!

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

thanks for all the input guys! i like making sure im buying the right part

2XR95Z28

iTrader: (4)

Yep just check my old email from that order and those are infact the bolts i went with. Will work perfectly for ya!

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

thanks for the clarification!

2XR95Z28

iTrader: (4)

n/p man

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Yes for the head studs. Better to make up the torque with fine threads on the head than with coarse threads in the block. You'll need to put the head in place and then spin in the studs. Not so hard as the ARP studs have a internal hex (allen) in them.

Yup, more money, more work. Better stuff usually is.

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

I prefer the 12 pt heads over the hex. if you are running a larger spring the hex wont fit. studs vs bolts depends more on what the motor is built for

shbox

IHMO, studs are truly not necessary, unless you have a race build that needs some extra assurance in clamping force. I have read so many threads of people not being able to get studs to seal it's not even funny. Could be that they did not know what they were doing, but bolts with sealant work every time and you will be perfectly happy with it.

BTW, I have never seen an SBC engine that did not have locating dowels for the heads. That's not even an issue.

For the OP, the bolts in your link are the ones I bought and am using.