LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Is the cam in a 1994 Vette different from the cam in a 96 formula?

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Old 01-06-2009, 10:42 AM
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Default Is the cam in a 1994 Vette different from the cam in a 96 formula?

Is the cam in a 1994 Vette different from the cam in a 96 formula? Does anyone have the specs for the stock cams? My buddy has one from a 1994 vette just laying around. Wondered if it would work in my 96 formula and if there would be any gains.
Old 01-06-2009, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by shaguar_red
Is the cam in a 1994 Vette different from the cam in a 96 formula? Does anyone have the specs for the stock cams? My buddy has one from a 1994 vette just laying around. Wondered if it would work in my 96 formula and if there would be any gains.
Yes - it will work, No, it's not worth the swap. Do yourself a favor and research some popular cam swap kits and get a real cam to see some real results.
Old 01-06-2009, 10:53 AM
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LOL the engine is out of my car. I didnt really want to cam it because I didnt want a stall. Just thought if the vette cam was a lil better, and its FREE why not. Anyone know what the vette cam specs are? I searched and couldnt find em.
Old 01-06-2009, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shaguar_red
LOL the engine is out of my car. I didnt really want to cam it because I didnt want a stall. Just thought if the vette cam was a lil better, and its FREE why not. Anyone know what the vette cam specs are? I searched and couldnt find em.
I honestly don't think it would be worth the time and the price of new gaskets.
Old 01-06-2009, 11:10 AM
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you really wont see any gains that are worth the time and effort you put into it.
Old 01-06-2009, 11:23 AM
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I would looking into something moderate that will work with your stock engine and stock stall. I think you would be very happy with something like a Hot Cam. IIRC its a 218/228 on a 112.
Old 01-06-2009, 12:52 PM
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You don't need a stall with a cam. They make stock power band cams, and you can always get a custom grind to make it around that RPM range. You'd be much much better off going with 1.6 rockers, full roller is suggested, but there's your average stamp steel roller tips or just flat out 1.6 stamped. I think it's Comp Cams who makes true 1.6 stamped rockers, since all stamped non roller tip rockers lose ratio as they pivot. So they went and adjusted their die I guess to make it 1.6 the whole lift.

Vette motors are 99% the same as F-Body with the only real worth while part being the cool composite valve covers some of them got Sure, they have 4bolt mains but that doesn't really mean much anymore.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Formula350
You don't need a stall with a cam. They make stock power band cams, and you can always get a custom grind to make it around that RPM range. You'd be much much better off going with 1.6 rockers, full roller is suggested, but there's your average stamp steel roller tips or just flat out 1.6 stamped. I think it's Comp Cams who makes true 1.6 stamped rockers, since all stamped non roller tip rockers lose ratio as they pivot. So they went and adjusted their die I guess to make it 1.6 the whole lift.

Vette motors are 99% the same as F-Body with the only real worth while part being the cool composite valve covers some of them got Sure, they have 4bolt mains but that doesn't really mean much anymore.
Well I have 1.6 RR from GMPP and springs. So like you guys said, I should probably go with a mild cam then. LOL Thanks for your help. Ill keep my eyes peeled for one.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:15 PM
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Get all of the following...

-Get a real cam that suits your needs/goals (I went with the CC503 224/230 .502"/.510" 112lsa)
-CC 1.6 Promagnum NSA roller rockers
-TF guideplates
-TF chromemoly pushrods
-ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
-CC 918 beehive springs w/ seats, locks, and retainters (I am running the crane dual spring kit)

You can always add a stall and gears later (not necessary with all cams), but valve train parts will be much easier to put in with the engine out. And as stated above, you can get a cam that will work with your stock power band if you insist on staying with a stock torque converter.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:17 PM
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GMPP 1.6 rr's will work fine. What springs do you have?
Old 01-06-2009, 01:54 PM
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Get a LPE 211/219, behaves like stock just with more power and tq everywhere + like 2-300 longer RPM range.
Old 01-06-2009, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by krill
Get a LPE 211/219, behaves like stock just with more power and tq everywhere + like 2-300 longer RPM range.
yes +1 on this cam
it is quiet enough to fool the average however the power from this cam is awesome for the size TQ is king
Old 01-06-2009, 05:59 PM
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if you had a 6-speed you would not have to worry how big a cam is
Old 01-07-2009, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996camaross
if you had a 6-speed you would not have to worry how big a cam is
LOL i have a 5 speed daily driver and it got old after a while.
Old 01-07-2009, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
GMPP 1.6 rr's will work fine. What springs do you have?
I have Comp Cam beehive springs and titanium locks and retainers.
Old 01-07-2009, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shaguar_red
I have Comp Cam beehive springs and titanium locks and retainers.
Cool, now order the guideplates, pushrods, rocker arm studs, and the cam.
Old 01-07-2009, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
Cool, now order the guideplates, pushrods, rocker arm studs, and the cam.
Just curious, why the beefier guideplates? I have to get rocker arm studs anyways, the guy I bought my engine from put iron heads on it. He was running nitrus. I have a set of stock aluminum heads Im having polished and surfaced. They are from a 95 Formula. Im looking for a cam thats got a smooth idle and not too crazy because this will be a street car. I just want her to be able to keep up with the new v6 when it comes out. LOL Probably a daily driver in the summer and spring, and put up in the winter. She wont see a drag strip but maybe once just to get some recorded times when she is done.
Old 01-07-2009, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by shaguar_red
Just curious, why the beefier guideplates? I have to get rocker arm studs anyways, the guy I bought my engine from put iron heads on it. He was running nitrus. I have a set of stock aluminum heads Im having polished and surfaced. They are from a 95 Formula. Im looking for a cam thats got a smooth idle and not too crazy because this will be a street car. I just want her to be able to keep up with the new v6 when it comes out. LOL Probably a daily driver in the summer and spring, and put up in the winter. She wont see a drag strip but maybe once just to get some recorded times when she is done.
Beefier? You don't already have guideplates do you? Guideplates help to stabilize your valvetrain, for added insurance. They are easy to put in, and since you are already getting rocker arm studs, why not.
Old 01-07-2009, 02:13 PM
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From this thread I think that you will be happy with a cam such as the CC305:

cc305: (220/230 .544/.544 114lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Very similar in size to the LT4 Hot Cam but with 2 more degrees of duration on the intake and exhaust side at .050 and a bit more lift. Comes in a 112lsa and 114lsa. The 114lsa will have increased bottom-end power over the 112lsa while that will have increased top-end power. The 114lsa is sometimes favored by cars running Nitrous or Blowers because it provides less overlap than a 112lsa which helps maximize the power coming from the Nitrous or Blower. Features Comp's Magnum lobes which are older but proven to not take a beating on the valvetrain.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6300rpm
Idle Characteristics: 114lsa will have a Smooth Idle, 112lsa will have a Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
Old 01-07-2009, 06:09 PM
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What's wrong with a stall!? That's gonna give you the same gain that a cam will with WAY less work.


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