Conversions & Hybrids - LQ4/4L60E into 67 Chevelle

Hello all,
I am a little hesitant to post here as I don't know much about LSx's. My 14 year old son and I started to pull a 2000 LQ4 and 4l60E [I believe] out of a 2000 truck today. I have been reading and reading here for the last 7 or 8 months off and on but must admit I am a V8 newbie........ How do I make a long story short? I grew up with Volkswagens and I spent '05, '06 and restoring a '64 convertible bug from the ground up.
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/vert_pics/bug_11-7-06/100_1171_sm.jpg
I bought a 67 Chevelle [malibu] a few years ago with no motor and no trans
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/67_chevelle/images/Picture%20007.jpg
and my brother passed away last May which left me with his 2000 Chevy 2500 truck. Of course this is when I started researching putting a modern motor into the chevelle.....

Questions......
1] I know for sure I need motor mounts and a different oil pan to start [still researching to decide what parts to start with] any suggestions?

2] Thinking ahead.... My chevelle did not have power steering or AC, can I utilize these off my bro's truck? or will I have to go after market for these? I was thinking maybe I can use PS pump with after market PS box? No? What about AC? use compressor off bro's truck or have to go strictly after market for AC?

Oh yeah, one more......no matter what I search for in these forums, I get no results. What am I doing wrong?

I have already learned so much from all of you here at this site and I thank you.

Thanks

Rob

Never hesitate to post ,the worst thing is your question wont be answered,ask specific questions , theres plenty of help around here. if you go to the top of conversion & hybrids to the a body thread section there is plenty of info there , you will either have to notch your frame or go for some aftermarket setup for ac ,oilpan choice - steering and trans were my issues in choosing an oil pan. you will probably need headers too .this is all my experience so far . pistopete is also diong a 67 .JOHN

Thanks John,
I have been through your thread a few times. The more I read through the forum the more questions I have. I got my chevelle with literally nothing under the hood. So the more I can use off my bro's truck, the better off I am. I am not doing a body off restoration. Just hoping to get this thing running for the kid with the least amount of money possible. Then do the body work and paint later.

Has anyone here added functionality to their "conversion" from the stock LSx accessories [AC, Power Steering....]

I will keep reading.

Rob

This may be your problem, when searching. I think this happens to a lot of people.

Thanks LS1MCSS!
I swear I tried that before........:emb:

Does anyone have any negative thoughts on the whole BRP LS1 swap kit including the oil pan and cross member? Here? (http://ssl.hostingplatform.com/30729.30364/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=BHR&Product_Code=LCMMCM&Category_Code=1ABCGLCECSH)

From all the reading I have been doing, it sounds like this kit is as close to "bolt in" as possible. I also like the thought of running AC with as little modification as possible.

Thanks again!

Rob

Hello,
I am 6 bolts from removing my LQ4 from my 2000 2500 truck. the 6 allen bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. I cannot break them loose. I cannot fit my impact gun up in there and my air ratchet doesn't have the balls. I have tried a 2' pipe on the 1/2" wratchet and still no luck. Just not enough space.

Any ideas? they aren't reverse thread or something like that, are they?

I know most of you pull the engine and trans at the same time. I have never done this before and the book I have shows how to pull engine alone. I would be going backwards to have to bolt the tranny back up to the block. please give me any thoughts on pulling 6 bolts from underneath the truck.

Thanks

Rob

no way to fit a univresal & extension? it probably require the help of a buddy to steady it. with mine, as soon as the impact hit it the bolt was vey easy. put some pb blaster on it too.

thanks jomomma,
I ended up with a short extension, a U , and a long extension to the impact and still no go. I have gone ahead and bolted up the tranny back up to the engine and started disconnecting that to pull it all as one. I really don't have the room for that, but I don't know what else to do at this point.

Rob

the Tq bolts are a Bitch you will need to have to people to make it easier.
you will need a 15/16 for the crank pulley bolt and have some one turn it to the sweet spot,"dont forget to drop the starter if you havent already"
then on the starter side you can get 1 bolt at a time and use some brut force.
i also had to take the motor mount loose to get a impact in for one bolt.
good luck:D

Thanks mred,
I broke a universal and a few knuckles trying to get the tranny split while in the truck. I decided to pull it in one unit and finally got it today. I am hoping it might be a little easier to split out of the truck.

Got this....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-18-09/IMG_0107.jpg

out of this.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-18-09/IMG_0111.jpg

Time to start stuffing into this......

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-18-09/IMG_0091.jpg

Thanks for the help,

Rob

Cool project man, I like the Chevelle. Was there something wrong with the truck? You could have bought an already pulled motor from a wrecked truck at a junkyard for cheap, and used the truck to haul it home. And it is WAY easier to split the trans from the motor while it is sitting out of the vehicle.

Hi,
long story man. I have plenty of trucks [I work for a general contractor]. This truck was my brother's truck. He passed away last May. I have had the Chevelle sitting waiting for a game plan for a few years with no engine or tranny. It just all made sense. My mom didn't want to deal with the truck, the truck is a "construction" truck [my bro was an electrical contractor], and the truck/engine/trans was free..........so there you have it. I will either part out truck or just junk it.

Rob

Welcome Rob and good luck with you project.

I will definitely be following your thread as you are doing EXACTLY what I hope to accomplish (down to the 67 chevelle). This site is excellent, especially with the ls info, but when you get down to throwing wrenches at the chevelle be sure to go over to chevelles.com. Excellent site for straight-up chevelle info.

Shane

Nice set up you are doing. I am doing th same thing. I have not started a thread but will be shortly. It was long trying to do the research. I am going with a 2002 5.3 w 4l60e about 40k miles on it. I am pulling my sbc 350 and th400 this weekend. I am using a H3(LH8 pan) and edelbrock motor plate and headers. I also cut cost by using the stock cross member cut flip the braket and weld it. C5 z06 disk brakes front and rear with hotchkis suspension all the way arround with qa1 adjustables. All the accesories should work with no problem. You may also want to look at Pro-Touring.com thats were I spend most of my time.

Thanks rocky topper, Shane and 71_chevelle. I appreciate the help from all you guys already. Great forum! I have checked out chevelles.com before, but not pro-touring.com yet. My build will be a budget build for sure. mock it up, get it running, then maybe pull it all to attack body work and paint.

oh yeah, just figured out that the trans is a 4L80E not a 4L60E. If I remember correctly the 4L80E is a little bigger but should still fit in the chevelle, correct?

So how would I change the name of the thread [4L80E instead of 4L60E]?

Rob

i think you will need a lead hammer and go to town on the tunnel or you can cut it and weld in about 1-2" in.

Depending on what Oil pan you go with that 4L80E might be a tight fit. Might look into the CTS-V pan to get the engine a little further forward. I would say that is a great surprise those those 4L80s are tough trannies in stock form.

I am doing the same exact swap. It has been too cold here to get much done but I will catch up soon.

Depending on what Oil pan you go with that 4L80E might be a tight fit. Might look into the CTS-V pan to get the engine a little further forward. I would say that is a great surprise those those 4L80s are tough trannies in stock form.


ahhhhh, Maybe ordering the short/wide mounts was a good move also. My CTSv pan just came in about an hour ago. I would rather 'message' the tunnel as little as possible, but I am willing to do whatever it takes to get 'er done.

Supershift67,
a little cold? where are you. It isn't exactly warm here either. But I guess Cali is a bit warmer than some places right now..... :D It's all relative, right? :nod:

Rob

Robbie what are you going to do with the truck?Just pm you.

so far I havent had to massage the tunnel ,but it is TIGHT car should be running in about a month ,I'll let you know. JOHN

rob, I am in Iowa. I just built this garage and I have no wiring or anything yet but the chevelle takes priority over the garage. Its been 20 below zero her for a while but its alot warmer now at 24 degrees F.

rob, I am in Iowa. I just built this garage and I have no wiring or anything yet but the chevelle takes priority over the garage. Its been 20 below zero her for a while but its alot warmer now at 24 degrees F.

20 below? No thanks!!! You are a better man than I!

I got my engine and trans separated. I have a couple questions......

1] I bought a windage tray with my CTS-V oil pan, is there any reason I shouldn't just use the old truck tray and return the new one?

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-22-09/lq4%20windage.jpg

Also, The LQ4 has over 100,000 miles on it. Is there anything I should be looking for while I have the pan off?

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-22-09/lq4%20bottom01.jpg

Or is there anything to be learned about the engine with just the pan off?

I also have the valve covers off. I don't know that there is anything to be looking for in particular......

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-22-09/lq4%20valves01.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-22-09/lq4%20valves02.jpg

If not, I will be installing the pickup tube, old tray and CTS-V pan to start trial fit into chevelle.

Thanks

Rob

how bout some pics of the pan?

how bout some pics of the pan?

Hi John,
pics of new and old pan......
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/oil_pan_02.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/oil_pan_03.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/oil_pan_06.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/oil_pan_08.jpg

Rob

Wow,
I am starting to think I made the wrong decision on the oil pan. I am about 3" away from getting the oil pan past the frame. depending on angle, my heads are either hitting the firewall or the trans is hitting the tunnel [somewhere]. But all the pics I see of people who "modified" their tunnel seemed to have to cut a lot less than it seems I will have to cut. I am pretty sure I have to take some of the firewall along with the tunnel out just to get the pan past the frame.

Your thoughts? [sounds like Gary Radnich :D ]

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/not_fitting_01.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-23-09/not_fitting_02.jpg

I will keep searching the site to see if I can find pics of where someone took firewall and tunnel, but do you guys have any thoughts of how much to start with?

Thanks

Rob

the truck pan wont work?

Truck pan would sit to low. I am not sure but I believe the LH8 pan(H3) should fit.BRP has this as part of their kit. This is the pan I will be running once I get the correct motor. Also will you be lowing your car more than 1"-2 " as that will limit you of the shelf option and will need to go with a s & P type pan.

Engine is in. I had to cut tunnel out of the way and some of the firewall. Will get pics up tomorrow.

the truck pan wont work?

Jomomma,
the truck pan very well may work with the modifications I made to the firewall and tunnel. Along with that thought, as high as I need to put the engine to a] keep the pan off the cross member and b] keep the oil pan out of the way for steering clearance, I may put the truck pan back on to see how it fits.

I am very perplexed right now. To make the ctsv pan work with all clearances, I have to put the engine very high and the passenger side head is about 1/2" off the firewall. And I don't know how high is OK. I mean, how high is too high for the engine?

So, I have 4 pictures open on my desktop, the ctsv pan, Hummer pan, F-body pan and the truck pan. Now knowing first hand how the pan/engine interact with the frame/firewall/tunnel, it looks like I picked the wrong pan to start with. looking at all the pics, it looks like I should have started with the LH8 pan, [or the truck pan just to see how it all fits before spending my money].

71 Chevelle,
I think the LH8 is a good way to go [with all my experience now]. I chose the CTSV pan because of all the reading I was doing here. A couple guys used it with there Chevelles with minimal problems. I don't know what i am doing different than the other chevelle guys, but I seem to be having more of an issue than others. I know '68 and later have slightly more room between firewall and cross member, but I didn't think it was going to be this tight.

Isn't the LH8 on national back order? By the Way, if all the dimensions on the Oil pan sticky page are correct, the LH8 is only 3/4" shallower/shorter than the Truck pan.

Rob

I may end up using the autokraft even though it cost quite a bit. I was thinking of cutting the bottom of my truck pan also but I think it will only hold 4.5 quarts of oil then. It is still too cold to work outside ,its -11 deg.F. BRRRRR...

Robbied , by going by my install the steering clearence was my biggest issue , where the inner tie rods pass by the oil pan . i have a s&p modified f body pan i believe , which looks to me to have the most clearence up front. anything else and you will have to raise your engine higher which means you will have to enlarge your tunnel ,my trans is real tight and i might have to hammer it out in a spot or two.also i did not install the engine with the trans on it so i dont know if it would ever come out that way.JOHN

what intake and front acc. setup are you going to use???

I am a bit perplexed myself as to why you had so much trouble. I used the F-body pan on mine as I had told you before and it was a very tight fit sliding the motor in but once the oil pan is past the crossmember I had sufficient room. Maybe the fact that I am using a 700r4 makes a bigger difference that I thought?

what intake and front acc. setup are you going to use???

I have an F-body intake, rails, throttle body and injectors. I have also have an F-Body acc kit on the way.

John,
I remember reading your thread weeks and weeks ago wondering why you hadn't had the engine placement done yet. now I totally understand! How close is your passenger side head to the firewall? If i set the engine all the way down on the short/wide mounts, the head is 1/2" away from firewall. Maybe that's OK, but at that point I have the steering issue with the oil pan. I didn't want to have to spend a lot of money on a pan, maybe I will have to. Wish I had an LH8 pan to try.

Pistolpete,
I was at a big swap meet in Turlock today and saw a 4L60E there. It was quite a bit smaller than my 4L80E. If I remember correctly, your tranny is even smaller than the 4L60E. As we all know, John67 lowered his body down onto his frame after motor and trans were in. I think just the size of my tranny is the difference in engine installation.

I will have another go at it tomorrow.

thanks for all the input!

Rob

4L60 and 700r4 should be the same dimensions really the only huge difference is an electronic versus non electronic valve body. However, you are right the 4l80e is significantly larger. Still the relationship between the heads and bellhousing flange is the same no matter what tranny and knowing that I am surprised you are having so little room. My gut/logic tells me the F-body pan should work since you have cut the tunnel but I can't say for certain. Just for reference i would say my pass. side head is less than a 1/2" off the firewall.

i would still try the truck pan before getting another one.

Jomomma,
The truck pan is taller than the CTSV pan in the front of the pan. Using the truck pan would make me have to raise the engine even farther to clear the steering parts and then it would hang an inch and a half lower than the CTSV pan. The CTSV pan is only hanging below the cross member right now by about a half inch. I am pretty sold on using the CTSV pan, but you never know.

Pist0lpete,
I am glad to hear that your head is so close. I just want to make sure I am not the only one. I have the engine where it works for pan clearance and the head about 1" from the firewall. I started with the short/wide frame mounts and energy suspension motor mounts. I am using the this template as it lines up with the cross member best.....

http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/images/engine/LS1_motor_mount_plate_V2.jpg

With the short/wide stands and mounts. The short/wide stand has a dimension of 1" from bottom of stand to the center of the hole. With the engine in a spot where the pan clears and the head is about an inch from the firewall, here is the result with short/wide setup....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-24-09/IMG_0147.jpg

So, I swapped the adapter plates from one side to the other. Then using the mounts that were in my chevelle when I bought it switched to the opposite side [which are 1 1/2" from bottom of stand to center of bolt hole] and a 1/2" spacer, the engine sits where everything works.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0150.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0152.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0153.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0154.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0155.jpg

I have set the car at ride height [about 1" slant forward axle to axle- a little less than 1/8" per foot measured on the rocker] and the engine at about 4 degrees down to the back. The car looks like it slants more because the garage floor slopes toward the door at about 1-2%. May need to raise some more tunnel between the front seats.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0156.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0157.jpg

I don't want to run the stock '67 stands catilevered like in the pic. John67 has a pic of 3 different stands in his build thread. If I could get my hands on the 1 3/4" stands [bottom to center of bolt hole] I would be golden with a 1/4" spacer under them and they would be centered on the cross member.

The other thing I have noticed in all the build threads is that most of you guys have 6 bolt holes on each side of your block to mount the adapter plates to. I believe everyone is using the forward most 4 bolt holes. I only have 4 on each side of my iron block LQ4. It makes me think they may be in a different location than everyone elses because of the adapter plates I needed to make as compared to everyone else.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-24-09/IMG_0144.jpg

Any thoughts anyone?

Thanks

Rob

the stands are higher but htey are not the right width , i tried every combo . i have them if you want them . ill talk to you tommorow

I used the Tall and Narrow engine mounts and matching frame stands. I agree on the "cantilever" ones not working I tried it as well. I ended up using a few washers for spacing the engine up a hair but other than that they worked well. As far as the mounting pads being different on your block I doubt it since people often swap iron blocks into 4th gens and C5 vettes without any issues. However, I didn't know they didn't have the rearward bolt holes but I didn't use those anyways.

is robs truck pan the lh8 pan?

is robs truck pan the lh8 pan?

jomomma,
my truck pan is not the LH8 pan. This is my pan [from pan sticky]...

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k183/philntx/Misc/dim_oil_pan_02-06_truck-900x800.jpg

and the LH8 pan is this pan from the hummer.....

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k183/philntx/Misc/H3Alphaoilpan-1.jpg

Rob

I bit the bullet yesterday and made my own frame stands out of 1/4" steel plate. Don't laugh, I haven't fired up my welder in a year and a half or two. These set the engine 1/2" higher than the stock '67 frame stands [the ones that cantilever]. The stands are just tacked on a 5" x 5" bottom plate for now and the passenger bottom plate needs to be welded off center to keep it off the hump at the top of the cross member........

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-27-09/IMG_0159.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-27-09/IMG_0160.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-27-09/IMG_0161.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-27-09/IMG_0162.jpg

Cannot wait to get the engine/trans placement set so I can start seeing if all my accessories will fit.

Rob

thanks for clearing that up, robbie. i have the same truck pan you have then. i was hoping it was the lh8. i think i might try to modify mine.

Robbie, why didnt you do that in the first place? looks real nice.for the rest of your mods make 2 sets of everything , looks like you will be passing me soon. JOHN

Robbie, why didnt you do that in the first place? looks real nice.for the rest of your mods make 2 sets of everything , looks like you will be passing me soon. JOHN

Thanks John,
I didn't do this in the first place because I had no idea what I was getting into! Once I understand things, I come around....... :D . Very slowly though.

Make 2 of everything? :confused:

John, I saw you mention to someone that you had a template for your AC brackets. I may want to get my hands on that very soon. Is that a possibility?

Thanks for the call yesterday!! I appreciate the help!

Rob

Looks like you did a nice job of fabrication there looking good!

yes pm. me your adress JOHN

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/626526-need-help-please-1964-1967-chevelles.html#post6091103

I thought this old thread might help.
The Hot Rod Project Build has some good reference pics. for a 67.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/113_0308_1967_chevy_chevelle_malibu/photo_04.html
Good luck
Malcolm
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/13247

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/626526-need-help-please-1964-1967-chevelles.html#post6091103

I thought this old thread might help.
The Hot Rod Project Build has some good reference pics. for a 67.
http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/113_0308_1967_chevy_chevelle_malibu/photo_04.html
Good luck
Malcolm
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/13247


Thanks, that was a cool build!
Nice car by the way Malcolm

Oh yeah, What is Hydo-boost?


Rob

Thanks, that was a cool build!
Nice car by the way Malcolm

Oh yeah, What is Hydo-boost?


Rob

Thanks. Oh I just remembered the white 67, first pic in my showroom, is not mine.
just a pic I was sharing with someone on Chevelles.com wanting to see pics of 67s painted white.
There are pics of my unfinished project on over in my showroom, although I do need to update
because I am a little further along now.

Hydro-Boost is a power brake booster that uses pressure from the power
steering pump for brake assist rather than a vacume type booster.

Thanks. Oh I just remembered the white 67, first pic in my showroom, is not mine.
just a pic I was sharing with someone on Chevelles.com wanting to see pics of 67s painted white.
There are pics of my unfinished project on over in my showroom, although I do need to update
because I am a little further along now.

Hydro-Boost is a power brake booster that uses pressure from the power
steering pump for brake assist rather than a vacume type booster.

Thanks for the info Malcom.
Would love to see updated pics!!!!

Rob

I thought I was going to have to fab a trans cross member, but thankfully I looked in the trunk where previous owner stored a bunch of parts and found the stock one. I cut the tab off, turned cross member 180 degrees, set car at ride height, set engine at 4 degrees angle and welded the tab back to the cross member with a half inch shim on the tab.

I started hanging accessories this weekend. spent a few hours nibbling on the power steering gear box to get the truck alternator to fit....I don't think I have ruined the gear box. I can install the belt without pulling the alt....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0172.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0173.jpg

I then went to the power steering. I got a new reservoir with the F-Body kit so I assumed that I could just switch reservoirs and install. No Go! the truck PS pump is totally different. I ordered pump last night.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0174.jpg

Then onto the A/C compressor. I again mistakenly assumed I would be able to use the truck a/c without issue. So, I modified the truck a/c bracket to move it back 3/8" [that coupled with the 3/8" difference in a/c belt placement on the F-Body crank pulley gives the needed 3/4"]. This works great, but the truck a/c belt doesn't fit now because I didn't realize the F-Body pulley diameter is smaller than the truck pulley. I hope there is a way to make up the difference.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0175.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0170.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0169.jpg

Still have plenty of room behind a/c compressor with this setup.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-1-09/IMG_0171.jpg

Any input? ideas?

Rob

Looks like you had the same issues with the steering box and the alternator that I did. I ended up grinding down the steering box quite a bit and still didn't strike oil or anything major. Seeing where your alternator is and how you were able to fit AC makes me hopeful. As far as the belt goes or would suggest getting some string or something and getting an idea of what length you need then heading to the parts store and seeing if they have something that will work.

Hey, Pm What you are looking to get for that truck. Nice swap BTW!!!

Looks like you had the same issues with the steering box and the alternator that I did. I ended up grinding down the steering box quite a bit and still didn't strike oil or anything major. Seeing where your alternator is and how you were able to fit AC makes me hopeful. As far as the belt goes or would suggest getting some string or something and getting an idea of what length you need then heading to the parts store and seeing if they have something that will work.

Reading through your thread, I knew you ground on your box, but I didn't realize how much. How about your rag joint? did it end up OK? I know someone ended up with some sort of cv type joint but can find it right now. How come your thread dropped off and then all of a sudden you are driving the car? I would kill for the everything in between, like the harness info, wiring up the car, and whatever else happened when you went underground.. I will be bugging you relentlessly soon..... :D

As for AC, after looking at john67 build, my ac compressor and the compressor he got of vintage are totally different. I believe his is the same as normal F-Body compressors. I assumed I would have problems too beings that my passenger side head is about 3/4" off the firewall, I thought I had the engine way back and the ac was going to hit. I was surprised it didn't. I just find it wierd that each ls1 into an A body seems so different for different people.

Rob

im dreading when the time comes that i start fitting my motor/trans!

Looks like you have got it all under control.http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/848321-67-6-0-chevelle.html Nice job

Reading through your thread, I knew you ground on your box, but I didn't realize how much. How about your rag joint? did it end up OK? I know someone ended up with some sort of cv type joint but can find it right now. How come your thread dropped off and then all of a sudden you are driving the car? I would kill for the everything in between, like the harness info, wiring up the car, and whatever else happened when you went underground.. I will be bugging you relentlessly soon..... :D

As for AC, after looking at john67 build, my ac compressor and the compressor he got of vintage are totally different. I believe his is the same as normal F-Body compressors. I assumed I would have problems too beings that my passenger side head is about 3/4" off the firewall, I thought I had the engine way back and the ac was going to hit. I was surprised it didn't. I just find it wierd that each ls1 into an A body seems so different for different people.

Rob
I actually ended up ditching the rag joint in favor of a CV joint maybe its me you are thinking of. Surprisingly, the Very last 1/8" of the stock shaft is 3/4" DD so I just cut off the ragjoint mount and ground a bit more of the shaft into a DD shape and slipped the ragjoint on.

As far as me falling off the map I apologize. I guess things just really got rolling and I didn't take time to document and post like I should have. Oddly enough, seemed like all those details like fuel and wiring went really fast looking back at it. For wiring I would say getting the Current Performance auxiliary fuse block was a good investment. As for fueling, if you can spring for it I would recommend the Spectre tank. I modified my stock tank with a tanksinc kit then used stainless steel braided lines and the common corvette filter/regulator. Feel free to ask me questions as you run into things and I will be glad to help where I can.

What is your compressor off of?

Pist0lpete,
My Compressor and bracket are off of a 2000 HD Truck. I have just assumed it is a normal LQ4 [truck] compressor and bracket.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I will track down info on the Spectre tank, Current Performance auxiliary fuse block and the cv joint. But you explain cutting off the rag joint and grinding shaft, then putting another rag joint on? did you mean the cv joint is what you put back on?

I am waiting on parts [PS pump and Hooker Headers] before I finalize engine placement, so I was going to start wrapping my head around harness/wiring but I am have not located the info I need. I need to know how much harness to I take, Do I take the Truck fuse box [sure is big] or leave it, do I take anything inside the cab? Then how to modify it all...... I'll keep looking.

Rob

Pist0lpete,
My Compressor and bracket are off of a 2000 HD Truck. I have just assumed it is a normal LQ4 [truck] compressor and bracket.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I will track down info on the Spectre tank, Current Performance auxiliary fuse block and the cv joint. But you explain cutting off the rag joint and grinding shaft, then putting another rag joint on? did you mean the cv joint is what you put back on?

I am waiting on parts [PS pump and Hooker Headers] before I finalize engine placement, so I was going to start wrapping my head around harness/wiring but I am have not located the info I need. I need to know how much harness to I take, Do I take the Truck fuse box [sure is big] or leave it, do I take anything inside the cab? Then how to modify it all...... I'll keep looking.

Rob

You take the whole engine harness, trans harness, and fuse block. Dont cut any thing on the harness. Take your time and get it out in one peice... if you damage any of the wires they can be repaired but may cause you alot of headache later on... I don't think you need the actuall wiring harness stuff inside the truck. Maybe the main plug but You will have to rewire it any way... If you find out you do need a Plug from the fuse box to cab PM Me. I have a spare fuse box with the plugs that you can use to rewire if need be...

1fastbrick,
I pulled the engine harness w/ trans harness and ECU. I unbolted the engine harness from bottom of fuse block. So I actually need to unbolt the others from bottom of fuse block and get the fuse block too.

I found the harness threads [finally - :emb: ] and have been reading through them. Probably take quite a few more times to even start to grasp it.

Thanks,

Rob

Rob you caught me there I did have a typo I then mounted the CV joint to the stock shaft.

Check out Rockauto.com for the best price on the spectre tank(search google for an addititonal discount code) and currentperformance.com for the fuse block.

Good idea waiting on the parts to finalize your engine placement. As far as the harness goes you want all the wires that plug into the computer and you could use the stock fuse box but as you mentioned it is quite large. That is where the current performance box comes in. As far as modifying the engine harness you will need to check the stickies for a pin out diagram and then you can trace and remove the un-needed wires.

Edit: I know this wiring stuff seems daunting but its really not bad once you have the wires you need to get power to and hook up for ignition it all comes together quite easily. In my case (maybe not the prettiest) I left all the wires in the harness till I had the engine running then started deleting things.

In my case (maybe not the prettiest) I left all the wires in the harness till I had the engine running then started deleting things.

Ahhhh. Good thinking.

Is the EFI gas tank everyone is talking about from Spectre Industries or Spectra Premium? rockauto.com has an efi tank for a 67 chevelle from Spectra Premium, but every post I see about the EFI tank say's that spectre Industries makes it. Are they the same tank?

The current performance box makes my truck fuse box un-needed, correct?

Have you bought from rockauto.com before. I saw that you suggested it to someone else. the tank is a good price, but shipping to CA is almost $60. So that would be around $500 for tank/sump/pump. I don't have a tank to start with so the SPI has got to be better than the tank and tanksinc sump/pump combo, huh?

Rob

I am not sure which tank brand is correct or if they are the same but whichever one has the internal pump should be the one I don't think anybody else is making that tank that I am aware of.

The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.

I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.

Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.

I am not sure which tank brand is correct or if they are the same but whichever one has the internal pump should be the one I don't think anybody else is making that tank that I am aware of.

The current performance fuse block should make your fuse box unnecessary. I can't speak from experience since i used an F-body harness but a quick email to currentperformance should clear that up.

I believe I bought a couple fittings from Rockauto in the past and shipping was fast and I have heard nothing but good things from a couple others on here so they should be fine. The SPI tank is probably the best option out there right now and had it been available I would have likely used it myself. Certainly my $150 tanksinc setup hasn't let me down yet (knock on wood) but having internal baffles would be a great improvement not to mention the SPI tank is much more bolt in. You say you don't have a tank anyways so $200 for a tank+$150 for the tanksinc and you already paid for over half the SPI tank.

Of course the Current Performance fuse box and the SPI tank aren't the cheapest options out there but they would save some headache and work for sure. The only reason I mention this is becuase I was on a tight budget on my project and I saved money where I could and a modified stock tank and modifying the truck fuse block are a couple of ways to do that I just wanted to give you a couple helpful products to use if they could fit in the budget. I don't want you to think there isn't another way is what I am saying I guess.

Oh man you Jinxed him... That was your 666 post right there.

what is a tanksinc kit include or is there a site out there with the info on it???

666 that is odd...ha try www.tanksinc.com

666 that is odd...ha try www.tanksinc.com

Oh... so they sale the repop gas tanks and then more like a universal EFI conversion kit to fit the tank???

Ya ist definitely a universal type deal except I believe they may sell an entire fuel injection rated tank for the 1955-1957 chevys.

Pist0lpete,
I do want to save money. But some things are just smart like your explanation of the tank/sump/pump. I bought the Spectra Premium tank from rockauto.com. I also bought the current performance fuse/relay block. A little ahead of myself, but I can't stand waiting on parts.

For a budget build I am already $3000 into the swap [$2994.36]. I expected to pay out at least $4000. I still need to buy a few things.....

1] radiator [bought car without rad]
2] fans
3] fuel pressure regulator/filter
4] fuel lines
5] front disc power brake conversion kit [don't need, but I want]

Does anyone have any input on what radiator to use and what fans to use along with anything else in the list?

Thanks

Rob

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-V8-Radiator.html

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-UpRadiatorBrckt.html


This is what I am trying, bought from my local GM dealer for about $140
Fab saddle brackets or JTRs may be adapted.
LS1 upper hose works great, and have# for lower but dont know application.
96 F*** mustang fan fits, needs mounting tabs.

Malcolm

I can definitely understand that and if there is one thing that helps these swaps move more quickly its having all the parts in hand because one part may affect another part in a way you never imagine.

As for your needed parts:

1) I used the stock radiator because I had recently replaced it and it cools great but for some reason I have yet to figure out even after buying a new cap it still purges an ounce or so into the overflow between oil changes. That radiator 67mal posted looks interesting might be a better option. Or you can always splurge for an aftermarket radiator made for an LS1 swap.
2) I used some dual fans off of a 95ish dodge intrepid at pull-a-part and they fit not perfect height wise but width wise it was perfect and they move quite a bit of air.
30
3)Rockauto will probably have the cheapest price on the filter/regulator but your local parts store won't be much more. I paid too much for mine at the stealership.
4)From the tank to the filter(return and feed) I used some braided stainless line from Summit and some of the AN to quick disconnect fittings. From the filter to the engine I used a 3/8 fuel line off an early 90's silhoette sp? minivan at pull-a-part. The length happened to be just about perfect for where I mounted my filter on the fuel rail.
5) I did a stock setup on mine but you should seriously look into a C5 brake setup if you are planning to run 17" or larger wheels. It can be done for cheaper with used parts but check out kore3.com for an idea of what is required.

Hmmmmmm. Thanks for the load of info. I wonder if there is a setup that has the radiator and trans cooler together or in kit form. Or, maybe the trans cooler is something I can actually use from the truck. I just sware I remember the trans cooler lines going from trans to cooler to radiator back to trans. Maybe I am wrong. Will have to look when I get home.

Looks like I have some more homework.......

Pist0l, any links to the "LS1 swap radiators" you mentioned?

Malcom, what makes you go with the S10 rad?

I was just looking at a stock disk brake setup for now. C5 is Vette, correct?

Rob

I know you can find the swap radiators on ebay and probably summit as well. I don't have any links handy maybe I can dig something up this weekend. Usually you can buy a radiator that has a built in trans cooler in the bottom part and I am sure that is how the truck you are "harvesting" from is setup. It also sounds like it has an external cooler which makes sense on an HD truck. If you could re-use the external cooler in conjuction with a radiator cooler it would make for cooler temps in you tranny which is always a good thing.

As for the disk brakes C5 is a vette and they can be adapted to work on our chevelles using a drum hub in which the outside diameter is turned down a bit on a lathe some have even done it with a grinder. The price for C5 brakes is really reasonable especially if you can find some of the parts used (try searching ebay and the classifieds here and on corvetteforum). However, as I mentioned before they do require 17 inch or larger wheels so if those aren't planned then a stock setup is probably your best bang for the buck.

project is looking good man

Rob,
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/67Malibu_009.jpg

And more later pics
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/13247

The rad is for a 84-88 Corvette w/1&1/4" flues that JTR says cools V8 converted S10s very good. I figured it would cool a 5.3
I like the looks of a crossflow better.
Has internal trans cooler, I actually tried to find a place to mount an external
cooler that I bought, but an AC condensor leaves very little room for any thing else.
It was almost $100 cheaper than the original rads I priced.
I wanted to use all the "off the shelf" parts that I could.
Hope the pics help,
Malcolm

Just went through the finances. put all recent purchases into my spreadsheet. Not happy. I am going to get into full budget mode for a while. This makes me very interested in the '88 vette rad. I used the part number from the jtr site to check scoggin dickey for a price. they don't have it. gmpartsdirect.com say's it lists for $303 which is what my stealership will charge me. I see the JTR site selling it for $195 shipped. How do I get it at the price you got it for? rockauto.com has an SPI aftermarket rad for cheap [$130 i think] but the JTR say's the GM original is the best cooling. Wouldn't you think if the SPI rad could cool an 5.7L it could cool a 6.0?

Probably need stock disc brake conversion in the future too.

Thanks

Rob

You don't know sombody that knows sombody in parts dpt at local dealership?

You know at $195 JTR is making some $$

I just did a 6.0 243 heads with a 4L60e swap into my 79 Cutlass it was a bit of a headache at times and costed way more than I thought it would. I didnt read anywhere on what Wirring harness you'll be using to run the setup. I went with the painless harness, it worked out great though it ran me a good $600. I aslo went with a camaro oil pan for clearance on the crossmember and it worked great, keep in mind you have to change the oil dip stick and tube along with the oil pickup tube and crank splash plate for it all to work. Also you may run into clearance problems with the truck intake hitting the stock hood, I had to swap for the smaller and shorter LS6 intake because I didnt want to get a cowl hood.

You don't know sombody that knows sombody in parts dpt at local dealership?

You know at $195 JTR is making some $$

No I don't. If I did, I wouldn't be snivelling so much. :emb:

79OldsCutty,
thanks, I have the harness from the truck the LQ4 came out of. I will mod myself. I already have an F-Body intake, rails, injectors and throttle body to go with the F-Body accessories I have converted to. My pan is a CTSV pan with all the parts that go with it.

"I didnt read anywhere on what Wirring harness you'll be using to run the setup."

It's all in the thread above.


Rob

I got my Hooker swap headers in tonight. got excited to go see how they fit....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-9-09/IMG_0213.jpg

So I took them into the garage to see if I could bolt them up quickly.....
They hit my floor. I can't get all the bolts in because they hit the floor of the car....

Drivers side....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-9-09/IMG_0215.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-9-09/IMG_0216.jpg

Passenger side....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-9-09/IMG_0217.jpg
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-9-09/IMG_0218.jpg

Do I beat the floor up, return these to summit [if I can] and find headers that are longer before they flatten out, or what?

This is the first "Costly" mistake so far.

Thanks

Rob

oh boy..... if you do decide to return them, make sure you get some good measurements off of them first! is there anyway to "adjust" your motor mounts?

Are they actually made for this application or something that was supposed to be close enough???

I should have forseen this issue with as high as you have the engine mounted. My headers are very close to the floorpan and my oilpan is less than an inch off the crossmember with the F-body pan. Thats a bummer I would look into moving the engine down or possibly find some headers that hang lower.

Edit: Just saw your PM I don't know if I would be able to check the part number maybe if I can dig up the receipt. However, as I mentioned above mine are very close to the pan as well.

oh boy..... if you do decide to return them, make sure you get some good measurements off of them first! is there anyway to "adjust" your motor mounts?

I can "adjust" anything at this point. Double check my thinking on all this please........ The engine is where it sits now due to oil pan to cross member to tie rod clearance. This is only 1/2" higher than the stock '67 mounts would have put it. But I believe that is higher than Pist0lpete and John67 put there's. The passenger side head is about 3/4" from the firewall. Also, then engine is sitting at the angle it is because I put the car at the angle I want it to sit when it is all said and done, and I then fabbed up the trans cross member to get the engine to sit at right about 4* down to the back.

I should have forseen this issue with as high as you have the engine mounted. My headers are very close to the floorpan and my oilpan is less than an inch off the crossmember with the F-body pan. Thats a bummer I would look into moving the engine down or possibly find some headers that hang lower.

What angle is your engine sitting at? Also, did you remove all the washers from under your motor mount, or do you run like the early pics show in your build thread? If you are still running with all the washers and the stock '68 and later frame stands, I am not [shouldn't be by my calculations] much higher than you. If you did in fact find a way to get the engine lower, than I am sitting higher than you.

Are they actually made for this application or something that was supposed to be close enough???

These are the Hooker LS1 swap headers, part #2289-1HKR. They say that "Their" conversion plates need to be used for these headers to fit, but they certainly don't say which mounts and stands to use.

Stealth71 just suggested replacing body mount bushings which turns a light bulb on in my head. I wonder if the Previous owner of my car maybe took this thing apart and didn't put the bushings in or if the bushings are just shot. He took a lot of shite apart and just loosely put things back together. That would explain a lot to me about why I am having issues that some of you others didn't.......hmmmmmm

Rob

you should deffinatly replace the body bushing. even though some of mine had been replaced they were still roting. But i am not sure you would gain that mucheven if you went with the polly bushings. Maybe at best I would say another 1/2 inch... but only time will tell also check the mounting points on the frame... there notrise for roting out or being damaged to some degree.

I see body mounts in there, although they are probably worn.
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/1-25-09/IMG_0156.jpg

Looking through the thread your motor is a little high and forward compared to some of the other setups. Most people come nowhere near close to fitting the A/C compressor.

I see body mounts in there, although they are probably worn.

Looking through the thread your motor is a little high and forward compared to some of the other setups. Most people come nowhere near close to fitting the A/C compressor.

hmmmmm, But yet my passenger side head is 3/4" off the firewall. And I don't think lowering the engine 1/2" [or even an inch for that matter] allows me to move the engine further back........ does it?

This is what confuses me. It seems I am doing something totally different than the others who did this before me or I have a different setup than at least pist0lpete and john67 because none of my reference points jibe with theirs judging from reading their threads.

If it was easy, anyone could do it, right?

Thanks for the input

Rob

I went home today at lunch to look and see how I can lower my engine and trans. I started thinking I need to bite the bullet and get an F-Body oil pan and get this thing lower. I have done a lot of work to get it where it sits now, but I am not so stubborn that if I have it wrong that I won't go back to the beginning and start over. I pulled the engine to compare where the CTSV pan hits the cross member with a printout of the F-Body pan.........

as I was jacking the front of the car up by the cross member, I noticed that the front of the frame flexes quite a bit. I started to look for why it flexes so much and I found this crack in the passenger side frame. I don't think this is why the frame was flexing, I think the frame just flexes. But this cannot be good......

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-10-09/IMG_0226.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-10-09/IMG_0227.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-10-09/IMG_0228.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-10-09/IMG_0229.jpg

Is this something that can just be welded and gusseted?

Rob

bummer... that frame has been in a wreck. your front half of the frame is pushed up Thats why the headers dont fit. I would try and find a replacement... or take it to a good frame shop.

I agree with 1FastBrick looks like your car has some frame damage beyond just the cracks there. At the very least you should try and find the stock specs and do some measuring to see if it is indeed out of spec. That is a definite bummer I feel for ya.

I agree with 1FastBrick looks like your car has some frame damage beyond just the cracks there. At the very least you should try and find the stock specs and do some measuring to see if it is indeed out of spec. That is a definite bummer I feel for ya.
Lets just say I am well trained in automotive collision repair field. I also used to be heavily into chevelle's. If you can give me a few days I can get you specs for that frame. I know some one who has a collection of that stuff for old cars.

I have seen the frame spec sheet posted over on team chevelle before I just haven't taken the time to search for it. If you find it and post it I will have to be sure and save it this time.

I have seen the frame spec sheet posted over on team chevelle before I just haven't taken the time to search for it. If you find it and post it I will have to be sure and save it this time.

This is old school stuff on paper.... But If you need it I can get you and him a copy

Hi Guys,
I will take anything I can get as far as specs. What do you guys see from my pics that I don't? Just a visual inspection of the frame doesn't show any impact points or abnormal bends/dents/turns. One side of the frame looks like the other, except of course the crack. I just don't see anything that would make you say 'this thing was hit here'. Maybe this thing was launched like the dukes of hazard and bent and broke the frame. I am not an expert [as you guys already know] I would just think there would be more evidence [No CSI here either] if impacted. I will go search on team chevelle for specs.

This is a huge set back! If/when I find specs, I assume it would be best to have the body off the frame to check, correct? If so, I will start heading in that direction....

This would definitely explain all my confusion as to why my build's reference points didn't jibe with any of yours [Pist0lpete] and John67's.

I have found a '66 frame on craiglist in Bakersfield. My research say's the '67 and '66 frames have the same dimensions. Can anyone confirm this?

Once again......Thank you for all the help.

Rob

Hi Guys,
I will take anything I can get as far as specs. What do you guys see from my pics that I don't? Just a visual inspection of the frame doesn't show any impact points or abnormal bends/dents/turns. One side of the frame looks like the other, except of course the crack. I just don't see anything that would make you say 'this thing was hit here'. Maybe this thing was launched like the dukes of hazard and bent and broke the frame. I am not an expert [as you guys already know] I would just think there would be more evidence [No CSI here either] if impacted. I will go search on team chevelle for specs.

This is a huge set back! If/when I find specs, I assume it would be best to have the body off the frame to check, correct? If so, I will start heading in that direction....

This would definitely explain all my confusion as to why my build's reference points didn't jibe with any of yours [Pist0lpete] and John67's.

I have found a '66 frame on craiglist in Bakersfield. My research say's the '67 and '66 frames have the same dimensions. Can anyone confirm this?

Once again......Thank you for all the help.

Rob

Yes, you should be ok 66-67 frame. I would not pull the body just yet. there is not always direct evedince that a frame has been hit. As far as Gm frames in General go, there really soft in that front kick up area. Its hard for the average person to see very minor damage. It's hard to explian but from what I see It looks like it was wrecked. Maybe not major but enough to bend the frame... That's most likely the root cause of the "crack"

66-67 frames are the same except rear spring pockets in the frames.
67 takes pigtail at top 66 does not have pigtail (use 66 springs w/66 frame).
I have a 66 Elcomino frame under my 67 Coupe, rear section had to be shortened
under trunk area.
I think cracks in that area of our frames may be common just from stress.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259972

My reasoning was that in the bottom pic the frame looks a bit sunken in just to the left of the crack. I am just going off memory as I am not looking at my frame right now but I did not remember it looking quite like that. While you are looking into frames you may want to consider an El-Camino frame like 67mal used since they are fully boxed but it will take a little more work as far as shortening the rear of the frame under the trunk.

Pist0lpete,
to the left of the crack on the bottom pic does look a little funky in the pic, but it does have a definite factory contour there. It looks exactly the same on the passenger side. Hard to tell because the pics are different....
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-7-09/IMG_0188.jpg

I know there are differences from side to side, but for the most part, whatever you see on the drivers side you see on the passenger side. I have a couple buddies with Chevelles and one of them has had a couple stress cracks over the years. He welds them up and gussets them. My other buddy say's he has seen a lot of stress crack too. He is a 4x4 guy so they just weld everything up and move forward.

I have a good resolution 66 spec pic. still hoping to find a good 67 spec pic. I am going to pull the body and check against specs. If all is well, I will get it welded, gusseted and continue. If it doesn't match specs, then I will be looking for a replacement.

One step forward, two steps back...........:bang: :bang:

Rob

Snowball effect. Sounds like a PITA, but in the end it will be worth the extra work. You never know what you're getting into until it all comes apart.

Snowball effect. Sounds like a PITA, but in the end it will be worth the extra work. You never know what you're getting into until it all comes apart.

Yeah, you are right. I guess I should be happy I found it now instead of months down the road.

Gee didn't take long to find this... I didn't even have to go down to my source either

66 frame specs
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1987031&postcount=2

this is a 69 frame
http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z238/1badss396/Team%20Chevelle/?action=view&current=framedims.jpg

Don't forget to copy and save this stuff guys....

Ya I knew it was on there I just had not taken the time to search for it yet. Thanks for the link.

Ya I knew it was on there I just had not taken the time to search for it yet. Thanks for the link.

:chug:

so you think you will get to measure it this weekend???

so you think you will get to measure it this weekend???

That's the plan. but as you guys know, my plans don't always work out :emb: I have all the body bolts pulled, I just need some muscle to help me pull it off. Going to have to have the kid invite a few friends over and feed them or something. I built a car dolly a few years ago for my convertible bug, hoping to use it again for the chevelle. Couple mods here and there might get it done.

I have the 66 specs also, has anyone found the 67 specs with the side view yet? Doesn't seem to be as readily available as the 66 specs.

I have been in touch with the guy that has the 66 frame in bakersfield. It seems I have a few parts he wants so if this turns out bad after measuring, maybe I can get away with a straight up trade. Just don't want to drive all the way to Bakersfield and find something wrong with that frame. Or worse yet, my dumbass going down to get that frame and not seeing something wrong with it and dragging a crap frame back home........

Rob

And remember this when the time comes, the body bushings that are under the front seat area are different than the rest , they are shallower , most sets do not give you the correct bushings for this area, JOHN

my under standing is they are the same. The only difference being the rear spring mounts and springs were changed on the 67 model. I had the same issue when looking for spec's for my 65 chevelle. They did not have an actual print because the frame demensions did not change. some were in that book it made note of things like that.

Rob,
Sorry it took me a while to find this, Year One faxed it to me in 02.
It does not say it's for 67 but thats what I ask for and it checked out
with my frame.
All body styles in 66-67 had the same wheelbase, with the stationwagon
and Elco only being longer in the rear section.

hope this helps,
Malcolm

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/frame_specs.jpg

Thanks guys!
I got the body off the frame today.
http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0238.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0240.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0243.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0242.jpg

I will check specs tomorrow. Something I noticed on the top of the frame right above the crack. Is this indentation on the top inside edge on the passenger side of normal? It is directly opposite the crack in my frame.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0245_markup.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0246_markup.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-13-09/IMG_0248.jpg

thanks again........and again......

Rob

Edit...... I see the same indentation in John67's frame. looks like it is for starter, huh?
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e267/juziebeans/John/CIMG0100.jpg

Yes thats normal... I think is was for exahust clearance...

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/67Malibu_053.jpg

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/67Malibu_058.jpg

Yes it's normal, in fact it just makes room for 5.3 passenger side manifold.

would be nice if the driver side worked as easy.

Malcolm

EDIT.....EDIT.....EDIT....
After double and triple checking, I had the rear of the car at the wrong height. The datum line is to be setup to the bottom of the frame behind the rear body mounts just before the frame takes off up and over the rear axle. I had setup right at the body mounts which makes the rear of the car too low. By getting setup properly to the datum line, the frame is within 1/8" and at worst 3/16" everywhere. Most importantly, the front of the frame is within 1/8" on one side and 1/16" on the other. I am done worrying about the frame. I will get frame welded, gusseted and move on.......

Original post below....
OK,
I setup the frame on jackstands and using shims, I got the framed leveled using a laser level. On the GM spec sheet, it shows a dimension of 5" from datum line [level line] to the bottom of frame at front body mount and body mount in front of rear axle. My frame was at 10" above my laser leve line. So, I simply add 5" to all GM dimensions. Going by GM '66 frame specs everything is pretty much within 1/4" of specs. The GM spec dimension in the very front from datum line to top of frame is 14 7/16". Add the 5" correction for my level line and it should measure 19 7/16". It measured 19 3/4". 5/16" out of spec. Actually not bad for a 42 year old frame, huh? and the back dimensions are a little low.

I can't exactly read all the dimensions on the Year One specs Malcom posted, but if I use that, it say's the front of my frame is an inch out of spec too high? Not sure the year one spec sheet jibes with the Original GM specs. all dimensions are to different reference points so it is hard to compare. But, my frame measures 3 3/4" tall on the outside between front body mount and body mount in front of the rear axle. so if I subtract 3 3/4" from the 10 3/4" on the year one spec, I get 7". So the dimension from the bottom of frame to the hole on front of frame should be 7 3/8". The hole on my frame on very front is 1 1/2" down from top of frame to center of hole. So there is a bust in dimensions between the two specs by 5/8" to 3/4" by my calculations.

I assume that makes no sense whatsoever, but if I go by GM specs, I am pretty close I think..........

Rob

Well thats good to hear glad there was nothing serious to worry about. However, I am still not sure what the discrepancies are between my car and yours as far as fitment goes.

Pist0lpete,
I was half hoping the frame was whacked to explain the discrepancies, but am very glad the frame is straight. I am sure the main discrepancy is me and my inexperience with v8's. The body bushings were very worn out [they crumbled if you looked at them wrong], I assume it's possible the body could have been shifted forward some and I am using the CTSV pan instead of the F-Body pan. I am thinking maybe my head to firewall reference point is out of whack compared to yours. I now have the engine back in with the original '67 frame stands [1/2' to 5/8' lower than my frame stands] and the engine about an inch further back than with the body on the frame. This gives me all kinds of room between steering box and alternator but I will have to notch for AC. That's OK, if the headers will work and I get to keep the engine lower. I will have to work on AC and re-fab cross member tab again. I think if the head hits the firewall now, I will modify the firewall to keep engine lower and further back.

two steps forward, one and a half steps back..... :eyes:

Rob

Not to hijack this thread but does anyone have the spec sheets for a 71 chevelle or will the one for the 69 above work. I am in the same problem with my frame. I actually have a spare frame but the one on the car looks to be off on the rear.

Thanks.

link to build.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1058843-71-chevelle-6-0-w-4l60-wait-see.html

If I am not mistaken, 68-72 have same frame dimensions

Rob

Help,
I have owned the car a couple years and it has never had a motor or trans in it since so the front suspension has always been at it's highest point of travel. When I had the LQ4 and 4l80e in it, the front suspension never came down an inch. How do I get the front suspension to come down so I can check final ride height clearance between oil pan and tie rods? Am I going to have to change the springs? cut the springs? get dropped spindles?

Thanks

Rob

Well assuming it was an original small block car it should be really close once its all said and done (aluminum heads will take off some weight). Mine didn't come down until I had all the front sheet metal on it radiator etc. I replaced an iron block with an aluminum block so it does sit a bit higher but I still think it looks good.

Well assuming it was an original small block car it should be really close once its all said and done (aluminum heads will take off some weight). Mine didn't come down until I had all the front sheet metal on it radiator etc. I replaced an iron block with an aluminum block so it does sit a bit higher but I still think it looks good.

I guess in the end, I will figure out how to get the ride height I want, but for now, how do I get front suspension down [wheels up] to check tie rod clearance with oil pan. The tie rods are going to rotate a certain distance when it gets to ride height. I just want to make sure the zerks rotate all the way off oil pan at ride height.

Do I need to pull the springs to make this happen now? or is there another way?

Thanks

Rob

I understand your concern there. One thing you should remember is the grease zerks are going to be more parallel to the ground once the ride height is lowered so if it clears now it will definitely clear when all the weight is one the front end. If you really wanna check now perhaps you could get some gym weights and lay them on some 2x4s on the frame rails.

Very little progress over the past couple of weeks. I pulled body to check frame and it checked out so I have welded up the frame. Since I had the body off and was waiting on the body bushings, I decided to order all the trailing are bushings for the rearend.... After quite a while figuring out the proper combinations of sockets and pipes and steel plates to press out the old bushings and to get the new bushins in, my kid and I got the lowers complete but had problems with the uppers bolts getting lined up and installed properly. I fixed this by throwing money at it.... I bought a pair of UMI Performance upper trail arms. I knew I would need some adjustment to get the pionion angle correct later....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0266.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0267.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0268.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0269.jpg

Since I had the body off, I decided to make new adapter plates [the ones that put the engine back farther], shorten my frame stands, and modify my trans mount to work with this new engine placement......

new adapters and shortened frame stands.......

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0263.jpg

Taking 1/4" out of trans mount on both sides so I can lower center section...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0252.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0253.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0254.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0257.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0261.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0259.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0262.jpg

I have also received quite a few parts over the last couple of weeks.....
new Champion aluminum radiator and dual electric fans from ebay....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/2-27-09/IMG_0270.jpg

I also have my Spectra EFI gas tank from rock auto, new vette filter/regulator, body mount bushings and bolts.

I am going to get the body back on and see if this engine placement works. I may have to mod firewall slightly, but if that is it, and the headers fit, I can weld everything up and move on.

Rob

you should put some color on that frame while the body is off! looking good

looking good !!! Always nice to see some progress

you should put some color on that frame while the body is off! looking good

Damn it jomomma, :D
The kid wants to clean the frame and paint it while the body is off too. I want to get the engine and trans placement finalized then hit the frame when we go at the body work........... Maybe I need to listen to the boy, huh? If I do that, then I should also run new fuel and brake lines while it is off too. I haven't ordered that stuff yet, more waiting......huh?

dammit

Rob

Some great stuff here Rob, I'm planning on doing something like this with my 65. I sent you a PM:)

No I don't. If I did, I wouldn't be snivelling so much. :emb:
Rob

Hey Rob, I have a hookup at the Stockton Chevy dealer, he gives me GM parts at his cost. Still not as cheap as GMpartsdirect, but you save on shipping etc. Just let me know if you need anything!

Sorry, filling your thread up. You asked about the front springs. Here is a really cheap way to modify the front, and it's even adjustable! This is what I just ordered for mine.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Hidden-Spring-Shims,3389.html

You want Item #: 91645552

And for the springs I went with Black Magics #600

http://southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=126

Looks good. Clean and paint the frame while you're in there. Also you might send some money to BMR and get the support bars that mount between the frame side upper/lower rear control arms.

http://www.bionicengineering.net/media/DSC02410.JPG

Hey Rob, I have a hookup at the Stockton Chevy dealer, he gives me GM parts at his cost. Still not as cheap as GMpartsdirect, but you save on shipping etc. Just let me know if you need anything!
-------------------------------
Sorry, filling your thread up. You asked about the front springs. Here is a really cheap way to modify the front, and it's even adjustable! This is what I just ordered for mine.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjust...hims,3389.html

You want Item #: 91645552

And for the springs I went with Black Magics #600

http://southwestspeed.com/?sec=view_part&id=126

Thanks for the info man! I appreciate it! Where is the Stockton Chevrolet. My current jobsite for the next 5 months or so is on the corner of California and Harding in Stockton............

Looks good. Clean and paint the frame while you're in there. Also you might send some money to BMR and get the support bars that mount between the frame side upper/lower rear control arms.

Stealth, is this a known weakness? or is this for You High Horse Power guys? My LQ4 is staying stock....................................for now.

I started this project with a budget. The more I listen to you guys, the more I have overshoot that budget.... :D

Thanks for the info man! I appreciate it! Where is the Stockton Chevrolet. My current jobsite for the next 5 months or so is on the corner of California and Harding in Stockton............



Stealth, is this a known weakness? or is this for You High Horse Power guys? My LQ4 is staying stock....................................for now.

I started this project with a budget. The more I listen to you guys, the more I have overshoot that budget.... :D

I will let you know about the dealer, a coworker's Dad is the parts manager there.

Oh and about spending money, you mentioned upgrading to Disc's. I bought the Kore3 brackets, found some used C5 calipers on the corvette forums for $80, and bought a new set of rotors/pads. That is about as cheap a disc upgrade as you can get! I actually have one extra C5 caliper you are welcome to have, just let me know:)

Rob you back from Spring Training yet?!

Also, where did you pick up the CTS-V pan setup?

Yo g6t6o,
I'm back, broke, lazy........tired :confused: :eyes:
I spent the day sand blasting the frame. Hope to have it painted tomorrow up to the front suspension. I bought the CTSV pan from Scoggin Dickey.

Rob

Looks like the car will be a lot of fun hope every thing gos go!!

Been too long since I have updated. I painted the frame from the back all the way up to the front suspension. I don't have the money right now to buy the front end rebuild kit and the disk conversion package yet, so I painted enough to get the body back on the car. finalized engine placement [I hope!], and started replacing the trunk floor before I can install my gas tank. The headers fit now with the new engine placement and the alternator has clearance from the power steering pulley. don't know about rag joint yet.

Few pics.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/3-28-09/IMG_0331.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/3-28-09/IMG_0330.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/4-25-09/IMG_0345.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/4-25-09/IMG_0346.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/4-25-09/IMG_0348.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/4-25-09/IMG_0351.jpg

By the way, the zebra stripes are POR15 and weldable primer.

I can't finish the trunk because the fenders behind back wheels are shot. There are layers of bondo, fiberglass and who knows what else. Just rotted away. I am picking up patch panels and trunk dropoffs today.

Rob

Robbie glad to see updates.

Glad to see the progress. Don't forget about me when your ready to move the donner.

Slow goin'.....
I have the passenger side of the trunk, lower quarter patch panel and trunk dropoff done. As soon as i get the driver's side done, I can put my tank in and start plumbing..... I can't believe the amount of bondo, fiberglass and rot there is here in this small area...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0380.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0381.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0382.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0370.jpg

New patch panel

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0371.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0372.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0379.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0373.jpg

New trunk drop off

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0374.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0375.jpg

Passenger side trunk panel finished...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0376.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0377.jpg

Now to tackle the drivers side....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/5-16-09/IMG_0378.jpg

Rob

wow, i must say you have done one hell of a good job there! thats a big job, stay on it! looking great.

Looks like they may have used some chicken wire too... at least these parts are avalible for your chevelle. When I had my 65 I could not get the rear sheet metal to fit right. come to find out It took a nice shoot in the back and the rear brace was bent in and up ward. I searched all over high and low for about 3 years and eventually ended up fabricating something similar. Same with the side drop off's were they conected to the center brace and quarter panel skin... I loved the styling of it but the lack of avalible parts at the time sure was agravating!

Glad to see you have some time to work on and up date this project! Looking good!

wow, i must say you have done one hell of a good job there! thats a big job, stay on it! looking great.

Thanks jomomma. What's up with your project????

Looks like they may have used some chicken wire too... at least these parts are avalible for your chevelle. When I had my 65 I could not get the rear sheet metal to fit right. come to find out It took a nice shoot in the back and the rear brace was bent in and up ward. I searched all over high and low for about 3 years and eventually ended up fabricating something similar. Same with the side drop off's were they conected to the center brace and quarter panel skin... I loved the styling of it but the lack of avalible parts at the time sure was agravating!

Glad to see you have some time to work on and up date this project! Looking good!

They used anything and everything. If I had to fab any of this, I would be here for decades...... It is quickly becoming time to lose the donor. are you still interested? PM if so.

Late,

Rob

Thanks jomomma. What's up with your project????



They used anything and everything. If I had to fab any of this, I would be here for decades...... It is quickly becoming time to lose the donor. are you still interested? PM if so.

Late,

Rob

Yes, still interested. just sent you a PM.

i finally got off the crazy hours i was working! i will hopefully get started back on it this weekend. i picked up a few more parts, fuel tank, motor mounts, haeders, etc. hopefully i will have something to post this weekend. ive been steadily been trying to work out some bugs on my procharged 79 c10. between chasing down electrical problems and destroying a rearend. ive more than had my hands full!

Looking good man its crazy what some people will do in an ill attempt to fix rust. Glad to see you are getting it done right now and it will last for years to come. I did those exact same quarter patch panels on my chevelle and they turned out really well.

Been getting a little done here and there....
a few pics of my Spectra EFI tank from rockauto.com

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-09-09/IMG_0424.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-09-09/IMG_0426.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-09-09/IMG_0427.jpg

Installed....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-09-09/IMG_0452.jpg

Frankenstein in progress.......

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-14-09/IMG_0453.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-14-09/IMG_0454.jpg

Then I realized I didn't have enough room for tranny cooling lines, so now we have cyclopse..... Carpet and a custom console ought to hide this.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-14-09/IMG_0456.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-14-09/IMG_0457.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-14-09/IMG_0458.jpg

Few minor pieces and welding left on the tunnel.

Almost have the money saved up to buy front disc brake conversion kit and front end rebuild kit.
Need to plumb for gas, plumb for brakes, convert brakes, rebuild front end, wire car, install and plumb radiator, pull engine and trans and button everything up for final install, buy dipstick and tube.........

I don't know what i am going to do for a shifter. I would like to use one on the tunnel, but not sure how to accomplish this. Is there any after market shifters I can incorporate into a custom console out there?

Rob

all i can say is WOW! that is a whole lot of fab work,theres like a perfect outline of an auto transmission in your floorboard. i love it! i think you can find a cable driven shifter to fit what ever console you decide to go with.

Rob, I have been following your project from time to time... seem like your doing well and learning alot for the other guys here.. Maybe once you get your project started and you start making the round at the shows and hang out.. we can meet up to check out each others swap !.

Seem you have come along way from the VW in a short time, good going.. (good job on that VW too!).

all i can say is WOW! that is a whole lot of fab work,theres like a perfect outline of an auto transmission in your floorboard. i love it! i think you can find a cable driven shifter to fit what ever console you decide to go with.


What are you thinkin'? who makes after market cable driven shifters? I think the console I make will be built around the shifter and the tunnel.

Seem you have come along way from the VW in a short time, good going..

Come on, don't be bashin the bug :D That is my pride and joy. To date, I have a hell of a lot more fab work into the bug. That thing came home in much worse condition than the Chevelle..... I am pretty sure that we all know what is going to be the pride and joy in the near future though....... :)

I would love to see your car now!! When is the next show you're takin' your car to?

Rob

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/BSC_06_003.jpg

This is in a 70 Chevelle, 2000 MonteCarlo seats with 99-2000 Camaro
console and shifter.
The only thing that might take some modifying is the hand operated e-brake.

hope this helps,
Malcolm

Hey, was not bashing the Bug, It was mean to be a compliment on your skill of wrenching, sorry if my word didn't come aross better.
And for the Record, I think bugs are cool, I have many memory of me and my friends cruising around in them for years, one was a supercharged backin late 60's early 70's, he still has it in storage.. My Neighboor had about 5 bugs and wagon that he has restored and modified, one of them goes 11's.

My Chevelle is at the Paint shop cause I got hit by some road trash. But I should be at the Pinolem show, "Cruising in the Sun" Show June 28 as long as it gets done in time, Can't rush a painter...

Hey, was not bashing the Bug, It was mean to be a compliment on your skill of wrenching, sorry if my word didn't come aross better.
And for the Record, I think bugs are cool, I have many memory of me and my friends cruising around in them for years, one was a supercharged backin late 60's early 70's, he still has it in storage.. My Neighboor had about 5 bugs and wagon that he has restored and modified, one of them goes 11's.

My Chevelle is at the Paint shop cause I got hit by some road trash. But I should be at the Pinolem show, "Cruising in the Sun" Show June 28 as long as it gets done in time, Can't rush a painter...

hehehe,
I took it as a compliment. I was just playin' around.....:D
Sorry to hear about the car. I searched for Pinolem but came up with nothing. Where is the show?

Rob

Sorry... typo thre..... it is "Pinole", off of Hwy 80 just south of Hwy 4....
http://www.northerncaliforniacruisers.com/

Unfinished Tunnel....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0499.jpg

Out with the old....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0488.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0494.jpg

Stripped down....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0496.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0497.jpg

Ready for front end rebuild kit and drum to disk conversion..... Have all the parts here except the upper ball joints that were back ordered....:bang:

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0500.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/6-27-09/IMG_0501.jpg

And the beat goes on.......

Rob

looking good! i bet you cant wait to drive this car!

Yo Jomomma,

The sooner I get it done, the more I get to drive it before my kid turns 16 and takes it away from me!!! I am dyin' to fire this thing up and drive it!

Rob

In with the new.....

All new bushings and ball joints in control arms [ordered wrong size lower control arm bushings to begin with :bang: ....], Summit drum to disk conversion with 2" dropped spindles, power booster, new master...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/7-06-09/IMG_0511.jpg

new outer and inner tie rods and adjusters.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/7-06-09/IMG_0512.jpg

fuel plumbed up to engine compartment....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/7-06-09/IMG_0515.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/7-06-09/IMG_0516.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/7-06-09/IMG_0522.jpg

All new brake lines front to back and rear drums rebuilt [except for one part to finish passenger rear drum...]....

It's been a good productive week!!!

Rob

you may want to think about converting the rear drums to discs in the future. brp sells the brackets cheap. all you gotta do is come up with the calipers and rotors.

you may want to think about converting the rear drums to discs in the future. brp sells the brackets cheap. all you gotta do is come up with the calipers and rotors.
You're talking F-body brake caliper brackets, right?

Just a quick update.
I screwed up when I checked specs on the frame months ago. I didn't get into enough detail and didn't pick up on the fact that the front is tweaked. When I was mocking up the front sheet metal [in preparation to install inner fenders to hang PCM], I found that the front wheels ended up in the fender wells in different spots on each side. After trying to shift body for a week, I bit the bullet and pulled body off frame again. I got into more detail with specs and found the front to be pushed to the passenger side by a half inch and the drivers side of the front to be pushed forward about 7/8 of an inch. I am now looking for a frame shop to fix it. this will no doubt change where the engine mounts on the cross member which will cause all kinds of adjustments.

I can't believe I didn't catch it the first time.

Rob

Yikes man I am sorry to hear that lets us know how it goes. Hopefully you can find a frame shop that will fix it right and it will be good to go.

Just a quick update.
I screwed up when I checked specs on the frame months ago. I didn't get into enough detail and didn't pick up on the fact that the front is tweaked. When I was mocking up the front sheet metal [in preparation to install inner fenders to hang PCM], I found that the front wheels ended up in the fender wells in different spots on each side. After trying to shift body for a week, I bit the bullet and pulled body off frame again. I got into more detail with specs and found the front to be pushed to the passenger side by a half inch and the drivers side of the front to be pushed forward about 7/8 of an inch. I am now looking for a frame shop to fix it. this will no doubt change where the engine mounts on the cross member which will cause all kinds of adjustments.

I can't believe I didn't catch it the first time.

Rob

Glad to hear you got it sorted out. Were you able to use the method I showed you to check it out?

To bad you weren't down this way. It's hard to find a true frame shop these day since most cars are unitized construction. We have a guy down this way that specialize in chevelles if all else fails.

Thanks guys! It is going in tomorrow. I called all over hell and back. This guy showed me the rack and the computer and software that goes with it. He is going to throw it into manual mode and get this pig straightened out I hope.

Joseph. that is exactly where I started. It was good to meet you this weekend. I hope that truck goes go good use!

Rob

Thanks guys! It is going in tomorrow. I called all over hell and back. This guy showed me the rack and the computer and software that goes with it. He is going to throw it into manual mode and get this pig straightened out I hope.

Joseph. that is exactly where I started. It was good to meet you this weekend. I hope that truck goes go good use!

Rob

Good to meet you too! Glad I was able to point you in the right direction so you could get this mistery figured out.

Keep us posted

Frame is straight. The passenger side was smashed back. The opposite of what I thought was wrong. The crack in the frame that I found months ago is obviously from the passenger side smash. I am still very upset with myself for not finding this months ago, but I guess I need to move on.

Body back on, engine/trans back in, Lokar floor mount shifter installed, Lokar gas pedal and cable installed and on to the wiring.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0573.jpg

I put the PCM and battery on the Drivers side front like the truck had it. Then I plan to use a stockish intake on the passenger side.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0567.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0575.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0576.jpg

I was just going to leave the harness untouched with pigtails to go from truck injectors to ls1 injectors, then I decided to delete what I don't need, then I decided to re-route some of it. I removed truck injector connectors and soldered in the ls1 injector connectors. I will have two runs on top of the intake, one on top of each fuel rail...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0568.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0565.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0564.jpg

I still have a few wires I am not sure of and I have no clue as to how to wire up the AC to have the PCM involved in it. I have seen schematics and threads talking about it, but it hasn't come clear in my head yet.

Next up is the harness for the rest of the car. This car was bare when I got it. Very frustrating at times that I have to install everything!!!

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-16-09/IMG_0572.jpg

Rob

I don't do too much during the week. If I do, I need short & sweet little projects I can complete before I get tired. I got the rest of my vintage air kit yesterday, so I slapped the Kwik Performance brackets and the compressor on last night....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0588.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0586.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0587.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0585.jpg

Tonight's project was to pull the stock Speedo out of my dash and figure out how to put new autometer guages into it. this is what I came up with....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0583.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0584.jpg

chrome trim and guages installed into the dash...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0578.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0579.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-18-09/IMG_0582.jpg

I probably should have used a smaller tach and speedo, but 3 3/8" is already pretty small for my taste. just don't like how the trim of the two ends up behind the chrome trim. Oh well, I think I can live with it. Just need to paint the 16 guage sheet metal black to match rest of dash.

now to make the harness.

finish engine harness, body harness, dash harness, vintage air kit, battery, plumbing [radiator, power steering & trans cooler - was waiting on condensor to mount trans cooler], fluids, drive shaft and I think I am real close to firing this thing up. That would be really cool!!! I don't have all the wiring figured out yet, but with all the info on this site, I am sure I can get it straight in my head.

Late,

Rob

Looks great Rob. You're making some good progress there!

Looking good I really like how you setup the gauges. The 66-67 cars really don't have alot of room for aftermarket gauges unfortunately.

Thanks for the input guys. I finally feel like I am making some progress after all these months. Then you start writing down everything you still need to do......hehehehehe :D

Rob

I feel like I have been wiring for a month straight. I dream about wiring :-) . After reading about AC wiring on the LS1's, I assumed it was the same for a '2000 LQ4 and I bought the braze in high pressure port, a crimp on port and the LS1 3-wire trinary switch. Well........My harness doesn't work that way. The LQ4 has a 2-wire high pressure switch in the back of the stock compressor.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0621.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0622.jpg

So my lack of proper research cost me some money. Turns out Vintage Air sells a low pressure/high pressure trinary switch that screws right into the drier [with the proper adapter]. It will also control the fans if you want it to.

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0623.jpg

It is a two wire switch, but when pressure is "good", the circuit is closed and I think the stock LQ4 switch circuit is open when pressure is "good". So I am going to use a relay to make the VA switch work like the stock LQ4 switch. See diagram below....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/relay_ac_done_sm.jpg

It will be a while before I get to test it. More progress pics....

Dash/guages...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0607.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0609.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0610.jpg

Started the Vintage air install...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0611.jpg

Radiator/fan/trans cooler/condensor....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0613.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/8-30-09/IMG_0614.jpg

Rob

Decided to start installing the summit universal harness in the chevelle. This car didn't have 1 wire in it when I bought it...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/9-7-09/IMG_0631.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/9-7-09/IMG_0632.jpg

Radiator hoses/intake/MAF...

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/9-7-09/IMG_0635.jpg

Finished routing the body harness, but I have issues with it. When I turn the key, nothing is getting power including the PCM. So I hardwired PCM to start switch to see if I could get HP Tuners to see the PCM. Got that figured out and saved the stock LQ4 tune to my server. I then started playing with it [HP Tuners that is] and got motivated to try to start this thing up.....run to Kragen to get oil, trans fluid, coolant. Put gas in the tank and start to get nervous. I turned the key to start and it turned over and started for a second. Pretty excited but runs real rough and dies. figured out I didn't hook the vaccum hose from back of intake to brake booster. Plugged that up and it runs smooth. A lot of work to do yet, but happy to hear it fire!!!! Cheasy video to follow.....

Rob

Here is a cheesy startup video.... Some idiot forgot that he didn't have the power steering lines in so I can't start it up until I get that figured out. Hope I didn't screw up my PS pump!

Cheesy Video Here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LHwLfXrfUlc)

Rob

I got a 67 chevelle suspensioned out and scrapping quarters it so low i put a lq4 in it and moved motor mounts back about 2 1/2 to 3 inches putting most of weight behind front wheels, problem truck oil pan is too big hangs too low 2 inches off ground wondering if f body oil pan would clear a body frame
.. Classic youngsta

Rob looks great, just 1 tip , I would notch the holes in the dash where it bolts up to the steering column .at some point you will have to install the column and will have to take dash in and out a few times, notching it will keep you from dropping the column completely and possibly damaging your headers if you have them, I was planning on installing the dash once - I'm up to about 6 times so far.JOHN

what bezels are you using for the ac?look at my link before you cut any holes, john, I can call you late-r pm me your #look at post # 177 there is a pic. I can take some more pics for you

what fans are you running and how much also a link to them would be nice thanks kevin

Rob looks great, just 1 tip , I would notch the holes in the dash where it bolts up to the steering column .at some point you will have to install the column and will have to take dash in and out a few times, notching it will keep you from dropping the column completely and possibly damaging your headers if you have them, I was planning on installing the dash once - I'm up to about 6 times so far.JOHN

Great tip! I am going to do that! I have pulled and installed the dash several times too. I have already installed my vinatage air system. Sorry I don't know what "bezels" are. If you are talking about the dash vents, I am using the cheap Vintage Air 67 chevelle repro ones. they are all black and cheap looking. I have the same center dash vent you have too.

Rob

I got a 67 chevelle suspensioned out and scrapping quarters it so low i put a lq4 in it and moved motor mounts back about 2 1/2 to 3 inches putting most of weight behind front wheels, problem truck oil pan is too big hangs too low 2 inches off ground wondering if f body oil pan would clear a body frame
.. Classic youngsta


Youngsta,
the f body pan and the CTS-v pan are the most commonly used stock pans in the A-Body converstion. Some are also using the Hummer pan, but that hangs low too. I used the CTS-v pan. The F-Body pan has been modified quite a bit in this swap too I believe.

Rob

what fans are you running and how much also a link to them would be nice thanks kevin
Kevin,
I bought the Champion radiator and fans from a guy on ebay. His store was named classic radiators or something like that. His seller name was rrrjsc but I can't find him there anymore. Sorry.

Rob

robbie can you tell me how much you have in your guages. tring to deside if i wont decota digital or not. hoping to find a cheaper way out there about $750 i realy like the way yours turned out. thanks just pm me if you dont mind

robbie can you tell me how much you have in your guages. tring to deside if i wont decota digital or not. hoping to find a cheaper way out there about $750 i realy like the way yours turned out. thanks just pm me if you dont mind

Kevin,
I have $510 in guages from Summit.

I have a few bugs to work out still. Love driving it around everywhere. After working out all bugs and closing up the harness, it is onto making her look goood! How she sits today.......Sorry for the night time shots.....

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/11-24-09/IMG_0738.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/11-24-09/IMG_0739.jpg

http://www.robbieday.com/photo_gallery/chevelle/11-24-09/IMG_0741.jpg

Late

Very well done! Nice project.
It's so cool reading you are driving it everywhere, most people don't take their projects out 'till it's all painted and shiny. -cuz they wont look cool- :zzz:

I'm tired of glossy perfect paint jobs!

Leave it like that, don't paint it. I'll do the same with my 68 Firebird.

This is also a cool car:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/5/9460156_655a17c015.jpg?v=0

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/7/9460228_18f2cdcb13.jpg

LSfan70s,
thanks for the kind words and yes I will drive the hell out of it the way she looks now, but ultimately, she will sport a straight body and nice shiny paint. I like nice paint, but to me, paint doesn't make the ride. Some people will look at my chevelle and their first thought is "what a piece of shite", while others who know that the amount of work I have put into it has made it a good foundation for the future. My car is all brand new from the frame up to just short of the sheet metal :) . A couple more patch panels, rims I like and a shiteload of elbow grease and she will also look good too.

I have painted one car and don't know if I want to do it again. I may just do all the body work and give it to someone to squirt.

As for the car in the pic above, uhhhhhhh........... , nice ride. :cool:

Rob

Congrats, we can do a matched 67 tour . one hardtop and one convertible both in prime for a while . JOHN

How bad is to keep a car on prime? Is it enoguh to not get it all rusty for a while.

Hey John, cool sig: "MEASURE ONCE BUY TWICE", ha ha ha... funny sarcasm!

About the ride on the pics, that's Peter Steele's car, inspired by trains and poisonous animals, lol:

http://petersteele.com/photos/12.jpg

Any updates ?

Yo John,
Sorry but there are no updates whatsoever. Everything is exactly as it was a few months ago. I have changed the all settings in PCM for the LS1 intake and the LS1 Injectors which made it run better. I don't know how close to how it "should" run I am. I bought the Greg Banish DVD on tuning to learn how to do this. I just copied and pasted LS1 info into my LQ4 PCM. I need to rebuild the rear end, it is howling a little bit, never heard it until [of course] I got it on the road and then got the exhaust done. I had been driving it qutie a bit in the summer and fall, but now that it is cold and wet outside, I haven't driven it much lately.

I need to get on aligning panels, rubber seal kit [it gets windy in there : ) ] interior and body work. I've got the heater working, but not the AC yet. Big swap meet here in the valley this weekend. I hadn't done any work on it for months, but walking around the swap meet has given me a little motivation and of course I had to buy a few things. We will be moving soon, so don't knnow if anything will happen in the coming months.

How bout you John, how's things coming on yours?

Rob

Just chipping away , got all the ac hoses, heater hoses and rad. hoses finished, installed radio , started on getting the power top squared away. shopping for wheels and tires , Hope you get back to it soon. JOHN

what power steering lines did you have made....(the size of the fittings).....im trying to figure out the correct sizes right now on my build......(I cant figure out what the factory gm steering box sizes are....)

thanks

I took an end from my steering box and an end from the l s power steering pump and had a local shop mate them together with a hose, JOHN

70cartruck,
I had an earls AN type fitting that is made with the proper thread to fit the GM high pressure side [5/8-18 I believe], attached to some earl's high pressure stainless braided teflon tubing [the fittings and hose are different than the normal AN ends and stainless braided rubber tubing] and an earl's metric fitting attached to the pump end of the tubing. A guy at our local hot rod shop did it for me.

Rob

I use the fitting from S & P they habe a complete kit ,pretty pricey but less Headache looking for fitting

Lots of work and usefull information.

THanks for posting all your progress and insites.

I'm putting a 4.8 with truck pan in a 67 CHevelle Wagon. It clears the frame fine. I'm not

lowering the car much so ground clearance won't be a problem.

Steering is a problem up front on the pan.

I'm going to look into using a drop Idler arm and Pitman arm to get it down. I'll remove

that front lip on the frame. I think this will sove the steering to pan problems.

I don't think it'll hurt my bump steer. I'll let you know how that turns out.
~Scott

how did the headers work out after the new frame fix and new mounts ?

Any more updates???

You wont believe what happened to the truck... My buddy decided it would be cheaper to rebuild it then to buy one. So with my help he put the whole thing back together.... You wouldnt even know it was the same truck.... It was costly but still not as expensive as get a comprable truck in good shape.

How did you like the tuning DVD from Greg?

So the truck is on the road? Awesome! I am glad to hear that!
The tuning dvd taught me how to change the proper tables needed due to the LS1 intake and injectors. I still need to get it dialed in, runs great though.

the headers are close to the floor. Passenger side floor gets hot. We don't have any interior in yet.

No updates, been driving it quite a bit. Need to get a rubber kit, interior, spare tire and jack so the kid can start driving it. After all that, it is time for body work and paint. Pretty low on funds for now though.

Rob

So the truck is on the road? Awesome! I am glad to hear that!
The tuning dvd taught me how to change the proper tables needed due to the LS1 intake and injectors. I still need to get it dialed in, runs great though.

the headers are close to the floor. Passenger side floor gets hot. We don't have any interior in yet.

No updates, been driving it quite a bit. Need to get a rubber kit, interior, spare tire and jack so the kid can start driving it. After all that, it is time for body work and paint. Pretty low on funds for now though.

Rob

Ya still has a few things to fix here and there but he's been using it. I was thinking about buying that dvd. Also looking into going to the EFI university tuning class in temecula.

So did you guys end up moving?

I know how the whole funding thing is. I didn't actaually start my 55 project until 2005 when I saved up enough to buy all the main expesive parts to build the chassis. Once I got all those parts and put the chassis under it and started the cage I ran out of money to do the Interior sheet metal. I Had to trade that truck to my buddy, and help him fix it, just so I could get my 55 back into his shop. Its been there since september 09 and he's barely started working on it again. Hopefully next week I will get a chance to build the 9 inch housing for it. I beleive I finally tracked down an 80E to go behind the 6.0 I have for the 55. Gonna use a stock harness to get everything running. then I will Get a custom made one once every thing is in., finalized and working. Once I get more progress I will start a thread.


Glad to see your still at it. I can't wait to see more updates when you get to them. :corn: staying tuned!

Does anybody have picture for a 67 chevelle fuse block??

Cool project, I'm starting on my '67 El - Co TT LS3. Ill keep you posted.