swap 228/232 to 224/228?
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swap 228/232 to 224/228?
If I changed my cam (specs below) to a 224/228 114, where would I lose or gain power? How much? Affect on 1/4 mile times?
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I'm not really unhappy with what I have now, it pulls hard and has decent (but not perfect) street manners. The 224/228 has 0 overlap though and would have basically factory-cam like street manners. Some claim to be putting down some really good numbers and times with the 224/228. So just wondering how power output between the two would compare. And I haven't done any mods to the car in over a year so I'm getting the bug to experiment a little.
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I didn't say I was having problems. You guys are reading things that aren't there. It drives like it has a cam in it. That was not the purpose of the thread though. I'm just curious if I might actually gain a little power in some areas based on the info I read on the 224/228 114 xer cam.
Anyone have any constructive input?
Anyone have any constructive input?
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Your question on power difference of a 228/232 111 vs 224/228 114 cam, is dependent on how efficiently your heads and exhaust system utilizes overlap.
If my calculations are correct, the IVC of each of those cams is ~42. So, on paper the rpm range of your HP/TQ would be similar.
Question is how much power is obtainable by additional overlap. Having ran similar cams, my experience favors the 228/232 111 for mid-range torque.
Given the proper CR, the 224/228 114 is a very well balanced cam throughout the RPM range, and has 'well-behaved' street/idle characteristics.
If you want better street manners, the 224/228 114 will work. You might lose some mid range torque changing from the 228/232..just depends on whether your set-up is benefiting from the healthy overlap of the 228/232 cam.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.
..WeathermanShawn..
If my calculations are correct, the IVC of each of those cams is ~42. So, on paper the rpm range of your HP/TQ would be similar.
Question is how much power is obtainable by additional overlap. Having ran similar cams, my experience favors the 228/232 111 for mid-range torque.
Given the proper CR, the 224/228 114 is a very well balanced cam throughout the RPM range, and has 'well-behaved' street/idle characteristics.
If you want better street manners, the 224/228 114 will work. You might lose some mid range torque changing from the 228/232..just depends on whether your set-up is benefiting from the healthy overlap of the 228/232 cam.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.
..WeathermanShawn..
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Your question on power difference of a 228/232 111 vs 224/228 114 cam, is dependent on how efficiently your heads and exhaust system utilizes overlap.
If my calculations are correct, the IVC of each of those cams is ~42. So, on paper the rpm range of your HP/TQ would be similar.
Question is how much power is obtainable by additional overlap. Having ran similar cams, my experience favors the 228/232 111 for mid-range torque.
Given the proper CR, the 224/228 114 is a very well balanced cam throughout the RPM range, and has 'well-behaved' street/idle characteristics.
If you want better street manners, the 224/228 114 will work. You might lose some mid range torque changing from the 228/232..just depends on whether your set-up is benefiting from the healthy overlap of the 228/232 cam.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.
..WeathermanShawn..
If my calculations are correct, the IVC of each of those cams is ~42. So, on paper the rpm range of your HP/TQ would be similar.
Question is how much power is obtainable by additional overlap. Having ran similar cams, my experience favors the 228/232 111 for mid-range torque.
Given the proper CR, the 224/228 114 is a very well balanced cam throughout the RPM range, and has 'well-behaved' street/idle characteristics.
If you want better street manners, the 224/228 114 will work. You might lose some mid range torque changing from the 228/232..just depends on whether your set-up is benefiting from the healthy overlap of the 228/232 cam.
Hope that helps.
Good luck.
..WeathermanShawn..
#11
Dave first off, isnt Dart 225s geared for 4.0 bores? Im just guessing your still 346ci? (3.90 bore)
But anyway, the 111 lsa shows why the cam is pretty choppy for the street. that lobe separation is for serious drag racers who launch hard off the line.... for auto trans i can see how you can 2nd guess it. without a doubt 224/228@114 will be fantastic for the street, and can be a DD. If your cam was cut on a 114, youd be fine. There would still be a slight shake because of the duration and lift, but still very streetable with a nice tune.
IMO, going to 224/228 would fix the streetability issue but thats a mismatch with your heads. (too much air for the baby cam) Dart 205s would have matched up alot better.
My setup is pretty nasty for such a small cam. But its because everything is balanced which is what you want from a H/C setup
But anyway, the 111 lsa shows why the cam is pretty choppy for the street. that lobe separation is for serious drag racers who launch hard off the line.... for auto trans i can see how you can 2nd guess it. without a doubt 224/228@114 will be fantastic for the street, and can be a DD. If your cam was cut on a 114, youd be fine. There would still be a slight shake because of the duration and lift, but still very streetable with a nice tune.
IMO, going to 224/228 would fix the streetability issue but thats a mismatch with your heads. (too much air for the baby cam) Dart 205s would have matched up alot better.
My setup is pretty nasty for such a small cam. But its because everything is balanced which is what you want from a H/C setup
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I think the Dart 225's were originally designed for the larger bores, but when people started testing them on the 3.900 bores, they make more power up top than the Dart 205's and don't give up anything down low. At least I researched them pretty well before I bought them and this is what I found. This being the case I chose the larger heads, which also leave some room for growth if I ever do decide to go with more cubes.
I think they are much different than the AFR heads. If I were buying those, which I would have rather had but couldn't afford at the time, I would have went with the 205 version.
Thanks for the feedback.
I think they are much different than the AFR heads. If I were buying those, which I would have rather had but couldn't afford at the time, I would have went with the 205 version.
Thanks for the feedback.