Where to find 1" longer crank bolt?
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Where to find 1" longer crank bolt?
Hey guys I'm having trouble finding a 1" longer crank bolt to get my pulley off. Does it come stock in another vehicle so I could get it at the dealership? The longest one the specialty shops have is a 100mm.
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if you need one because you are using a three jaw puller then i know exactly what you mean. i cut the head off my old bolt, took a 3/8ths socket extension from the tool box and sliced an inch from the center of it then welded it straight to the bolt, then welded the head of the bolt back on. easy one inch longer bolt.
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if you need one because you are using a three jaw puller then i know exactly what you mean. i cut the head off my old bolt, took a 3/8ths socket extension from the tool box and sliced an inch from the center of it then welded it straight to the bolt, then welded the head of the bolt back on. easy one inch longer bolt.
Wow, I'd hate to see the hard way. I don have any sweet welding skills, or a welder. Wish I did... Is this a GM part? Anyone?
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It's not required but it will keep from running the risk of damaging the threads on the stock bolt. I suppose I'll try without it.
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It's putting it back on where you really need it, so you don't pull the first few sets of threads out of the crank. I couldn't find one eighter so I had the maintance guy where I work make one out of some allthread we had.
#10
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I used the stock bolt to remove it (backed it out a couple threads at a time as it got easier and easier)
To install the crank pulley. I heated my oven to 250, stuck the crank pulley in face up (sitting on crank side) on a cookie sheet for about 45 min. I got it out with pot holders. slid it on the crank snout, and put a 2x4 on the face of the cranke pulley to tap (not pound) it on most of the way. I'd say it tapped on easily about 3/4 of the way, i hit it semi hard a couple times to get it on about 7/8 of the way then i used the bolt to tighten it down all the way. Worked perfect. You wont mess up the rubber inside. 250* is not hot enough to even make the rubber tacky, trust me i tested it with my finger nail. And you're not gonna hurt the thrust bering with the little tapping you have to do. Or you could just risk breaking the bolts off of messing up your threads the other way.
To install the crank pulley. I heated my oven to 250, stuck the crank pulley in face up (sitting on crank side) on a cookie sheet for about 45 min. I got it out with pot holders. slid it on the crank snout, and put a 2x4 on the face of the cranke pulley to tap (not pound) it on most of the way. I'd say it tapped on easily about 3/4 of the way, i hit it semi hard a couple times to get it on about 7/8 of the way then i used the bolt to tighten it down all the way. Worked perfect. You wont mess up the rubber inside. 250* is not hot enough to even make the rubber tacky, trust me i tested it with my finger nail. And you're not gonna hurt the thrust bering with the little tapping you have to do. Or you could just risk breaking the bolts off of messing up your threads the other way.
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if you heat the pulley (i used a old toaster over @300º, lol) it makes life easier to get the pulley started also. i was unable to come up with a longer bolt so i had to heat it and tapped it on with a hammer while i GENTLY tightened the stock bolt down. takes two people but worked great(one hitting one tightening. could do it by yourself though...). the pulley dead heads so once you have it completely on you can go through the proper torque sequence. if you have a manual tranny your all set otherwise get your self a flywheel locking tool! will make life simple.
you definitely dont want to start the pulley with a stock bolt as there are only a couple threads holding and you'll ruin them.
you definitely dont want to start the pulley with a stock bolt as there are only a couple threads holding and you'll ruin them.
#14
Theres a tool for this job,damper installer, I've never used one on an LS1/LS2 but am going to soon, you can get them on the auto zone tool loaner program so it a free rental. What the tool is a long threaded rod that screws into the crank and a large flat roller bearing goes against the damper then a large not goes over the roller, tighten nut it slides damper on. Again I have not used one on an LS1 yet but this week........................Paul
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After having my crank shear off in my crank, after pulling the balancer off three times I finally wised up and used threaded rod and some nuts and washers. Worked really easy to install it. To take off the crank, I found a pipe plug that fit right into the center and had an allen head end. It is really think and was less than a dollar.
#19
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i have always used a 6" craftsman 3/8 extension in the bolt hole, then center the pulley puller on the female end of the extension, and crank away. and to install, i just set the pulley on there and give it a couple taps, and get my ARP bolt without the washer and start to pull the pulley back on. go as far as u can, then back the bolt back out and install the bolt and washer and tighten to spec
#20
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WOW, there is some very scary advice in this thread!!!
Heating the "pulley" to high temps or using a bolt to install/remove are recipe's for disaster. Some have suggested pushing on a socket that fits on the crank snout, that is the best way to get it off. Don't use the crank threads. Don't use a bolt to re-install either.
Heating the "pulley" to high temps or using a bolt to install/remove are recipe's for disaster. Some have suggested pushing on a socket that fits on the crank snout, that is the best way to get it off. Don't use the crank threads. Don't use a bolt to re-install either.