Hackscamaro

Well guys im finally getting ready to pull the motor and rebuild her top to bottom! I was wondering what specialty tools i was going to need. I know one for the fuel lines i have a quick connect tool but im not sure if its the right one. For you guys wondering what im doing I am going with AI's Street/Strip port job and there 226/234 cam. From just dealing with them so far they seem like real class acts. I am getting basically the whole top end from them. I am really excited and cant wait to see what kind of numbers it will put down. Thanks for all the help guys.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You need a 3/8" fuel disconnect.
Torque wrench and torque-angle attachment are indispensable tools.
Cherry picker to lift the body, 7-ton jack stands to hold it up while you slide the engine out. Engine dolly is nice to have.
Two or three jaw puller to pull off the crank timing gear.
Spring compressor to...you know.
Adjustable pushrod to measure proper pushrod length.
Little nylon tube to tap on the valve seals.

That's all I can think of so far.

Hackscamaro

thanks for the info. i am coming out the top using the happy hooker and then i am going to break down the motor from there. coming out the top just seems a little easier to me just cause i dont want to have to screw with brake lines and so on.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

I wouldn't if I were you. Brake lines are simple, you just have to disconnect two lines. And it's so much easier to assemble the motor complete with everything, including headers and tranny and put it back up. Trust me.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Take this guy's advice.

Once you take an LT1 out the bottom you'll NEVER want to do it any other way.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

X4 just did it a few weeks ago....

Hackscamaro

every thread i have read about out the bottom or out the top its always very biased and seem like half of the people like the bottom the other half the top and to tell you the thruth if i had to pull the motor a second time i will try it out the bottom. just seems out the top would be easier in my eyes but we all have are opions.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

That's only because most people who advocate for the out the top method have never dropped it out from the bottom. While you "could" possibly get the engine in with both methods in similar times, doing it from the top will still require you to bolt on all of the other things, connect everything, etc. Doing it from the bottom, after it's in, you're basically done. When I did the out the bottom method for the first time, I did it by myself with basic tools and a write-up handy. Try it, since you've already done the out the top, do it this way, and you'll have a basis of comparison. I'd be willing to bet that you'll never pull it out the top again.

Hackscamaro

if you could point me in the right direction in a write up i just may try out the bottom

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Here is a nice write up. It's for a LS1, but almost everything applies to the LT1.

http://www.keliente.com/engine

The only real difference I can think of would be that the brake lines are at different locations on the ABS box, just make sure that you undo the lines for the front left (FL) and front right (FR) brakes. Also the radiator & heater hoses are different, but you just have to unhook them, so same procedure. There are two fuel lines to disconnect instead of one, no biggie.

Things I did differently...I don't have AC now, but when I had it, instead of unscrewing the AC lines, I just unbolted the AC compressor and moved it out of the way, to keep it charged. I disconnected the batter harness at the engine and the starter, but you can remove it with the engine just like the write-up does.

Basically follow this write-up, start to lift the body, and watch CAREFULLY, for anything still connected/hanging/dragging. Pay close attention to the brake lines, they will want to snag on everything, just bend/move them around everything, and it's simple.

As I said before, once you do this, you'll never do it any other way.

Hackscamaro

when you come out of the bottom you will have to have the car realigned correct?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

No, there are two aligning dowels on the k-member (you'll see them when you drop it) and it keeps the k-member perfectly centered. I never had any alignment problems with any car that I dropped out the k-member on.

Hackscamaro

sweet just from reading what i have already seems like alot of connections to disconnect

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

When you get to doing it, it's simple.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

This is an LT1-specific write-up.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

That's a good one, I read that one a long time ago.