250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
10-05-2003, 12:04 AM
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... First of all, I'm just learning about nitrous and thought I'd get your opinions on the matter. My motor is getting re-ringed next week so my oilk burn issue and detonation issue will be over. The nitrous may go on few months later.
I will DP system if anything. I will probably look into NastyPerformances new sheet metal intake.
Here's the deal: My car is just a street car and may see the track ONCE to see what it can do when I get my car back in a few weeks, but thats it.
I want the spray mainly for races from rolls (50mph for example). Also for small shots out of the whole. A progressive controller sounds great because I can program different ways to spray and choose them at the push of a button.
I already spoke with ARE about it and plan to do much more research.
In short, I'm not too worried about races from a dig as I'll be able to hold my own, I just need that little boost for those pesky Turbo Supras that like HWY starts. And a bigger shot isn't out of the question as ARE told me that it can handle much more with proper tuning.
Thanks
I will DP system if anything. I will probably look into NastyPerformances new sheet metal intake.
Here's the deal: My car is just a street car and may see the track ONCE to see what it can do when I get my car back in a few weeks, but thats it.
I want the spray mainly for races from rolls (50mph for example). Also for small shots out of the whole. A progressive controller sounds great because I can program different ways to spray and choose them at the push of a button.
I already spoke with ARE about it and plan to do much more research.
In short, I'm not too worried about races from a dig as I'll be able to hold my own, I just need that little boost for those pesky Turbo Supras that like HWY starts. And a bigger shot isn't out of the question as ARE told me that it can handle much more with proper tuning.
Thanks
10-05-2003, 08:55 AM
#2
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (71)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Brady, Pa
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... A DP system is your best bet for big shots. Spraying that much on the street is gonna be tough on tires though. What kind of tires/suspension do you plan on running. A 250 shot would be dangerous on street tires even from a roll. Good luck..sounds like a killer setup.
10-05-2003, 10:05 AM
#3
Launching!
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Even with nitrous it is not going to be easy to run with these big supras. remember supras are the kings of roll and big end racing. Nitrous is all about the torque the main advantage is coming out of the hole.
A turbo on the other had are slower out of the hole but once they are rolling they are crazy.
in example if you run a 10.5 supra he will trap around 140. If you got an f-body to 10.5 it would be more like 130.
But then again your setup should be making enough power to be good for high 9's. about 520 on motor and 250 on top.
But I would agree with blur. That would be highly dangerous you would have over 800rwtq at 50mph heck even 80mph you would not go far on the street even with nittos.
Have fun with it. Be safe.
Darrell
A turbo on the other had are slower out of the hole but once they are rolling they are crazy.
in example if you run a 10.5 supra he will trap around 140. If you got an f-body to 10.5 it would be more like 130.
But then again your setup should be making enough power to be good for high 9's. about 520 on motor and 250 on top.
But I would agree with blur. That would be highly dangerous you would have over 800rwtq at 50mph heck even 80mph you would not go far on the street even with nittos.
Have fun with it. Be safe.
Darrell
10-05-2003, 11:53 AM
#4
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: PURDUE
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Agreed... traction will be a problem. You might consider stepping down to a 3.42 and running a 315 Nitto or BFG on the street (what do you have now?). Also, I agree, direct port is probably the best way to go. I thought about suggesting maybe a 2 stage wet/dry setup, but with the direct port you have the optioon of running even more horsepower than what that would allow. Sounds like a Maximizer with a Direct Port would be the way to go.
10-05-2003, 12:09 PM
#5
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Thanks fellers,
I use 315 BFG drags right now. I have no problems in buying another set of rims and slapping some ET's on for race night. The traction issue from what I understand will only be a problem if the spary is hit all at once (full 250-300), thats why I was thinking of using a progressive controller to let the shot come on gradually, say the full 250-300 shot would build to its max in a 7 second span, or whatever time period????
Would the LS6 intake be fine for me or would a sheetmetal intake be worth it?
Also, considering ARE told me that I could use a much bigger shot than 250-300 from a roll, how big could I go considering its a progressively built shot and I'm going from a roll?
You see, I don't want a Supra to beat from a roll
Say a 50 punch to 170.
Thanks
I use 315 BFG drags right now. I have no problems in buying another set of rims and slapping some ET's on for race night. The traction issue from what I understand will only be a problem if the spary is hit all at once (full 250-300), thats why I was thinking of using a progressive controller to let the shot come on gradually, say the full 250-300 shot would build to its max in a 7 second span, or whatever time period????
Would the LS6 intake be fine for me or would a sheetmetal intake be worth it?
Also, considering ARE told me that I could use a much bigger shot than 250-300 from a roll, how big could I go considering its a progressively built shot and I'm going from a roll?
You see, I don't want a Supra to beat from a roll
Say a 50 punch to 170.Thanks
10-05-2003, 02:02 PM
#6
9 Second Club
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... You will want to use the progressive for sure. You'll probably want to start it up at 150 until you understand what you're in for and then ramp up to the 250 hit. I run a dual 100 and 50 now. So I tap the go button when I want the 150 hit. 
The 250 DP shot though is a safe setup for the motor and a good learning level before you work up to a higher setting. I wouldn't go higher until you have proof that you're having a problem with some supras first. 
Your tire should hold the 150 hit at 50 pretty well but make sure you have the lanes to roam until you get a few practice runs in. I've had plenty of 60-70 starts up here with the DCX Viper crowd on 275 Nitto DRs. If you do any digs though you're going to want the ET Streets. I left a 124 ft patch doing some launch tests yesterday.
Another important thing to remember is that you will use 1lb per 10 seconds of a 100 shot. So figure 2.5 lbs even with the progressive ramp up for the 250 shot. Bottle pressure comes down quick after if is half empty so you're looking at 4 big runs on a 15lbs bottle which makes a dual bottle kit a good idea for the long nights in Florida.
Almost forgot... if you don't have a BMR Extreme, Sphon, or Madman torque arm... get one because it only a matter of time before the stock one snaps like a tooth pick even on your motor at this point. You will also be approaching the limit on the Cats too and may need to consider running full time off road pipe if Florida does not have annual emissions testing.
Rick
The 250 DP shot though is a safe setup for the motor and a good learning level before you work up to a higher setting. I wouldn't go higher until you have proof that you're having a problem with some supras first. Your tire should hold the 150 hit at 50 pretty well but make sure you have the lanes to roam until you get a few practice runs in. I've had plenty of 60-70 starts up here with the DCX Viper crowd on 275 Nitto DRs. If you do any digs though you're going to want the ET Streets. I left a 124 ft patch doing some launch tests yesterday.
Another important thing to remember is that you will use 1lb per 10 seconds of a 100 shot. So figure 2.5 lbs even with the progressive ramp up for the 250 shot. Bottle pressure comes down quick after if is half empty so you're looking at 4 big runs on a 15lbs bottle which makes a dual bottle kit a good idea for the long nights in Florida.
Almost forgot... if you don't have a BMR Extreme, Sphon, or Madman torque arm... get one because it only a matter of time before the stock one snaps like a tooth pick even on your motor at this point. You will also be approaching the limit on the Cats too and may need to consider running full time off road pipe if Florida does not have annual emissions testing.
Rick
10-05-2003, 03:58 PM
#7
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
You will want to use the progressive for sure. You'll probably want to start it up at 150 until you understand what you're in for and then ramp up to the 250 hit. I run a dual 100 and 50 now. So I tap the go button when I want the 150 hit. The 250 DP shot though is a safe setup for the motor and a good learning level before you work up to a higher setting. I wouldn't go higher until you have proof that you're having a problem with some supras first.
Your tire should hold the 150 hit at 50 pretty well but make sure you have the lanes to roam until you get a few practice runs in. I've had plenty of 60-70 starts up here with the DCX Viper crowd on 275 Nitto DRs. If you do any digs though you're going to want the ET Streets. I left a 124 ft patch doing some launch tests yesterday.
Another important thing to remember is that you will use 1lb per 10 seconds of a 100 shot. So figure 2.5 lbs even with the progressive ramp up for the 250 shot. Bottle pressure comes down quick after if is half empty so you're looking at 4 big runs on a 15lbs bottle which makes a dual bottle kit a good idea for the long nights in Florida.
Almost forgot... if you don't have a BMR Extreme, Sphon, or Madman torque arm... get one because it only a matter of time before the stock one snaps like a tooth pick even on your motor at this point. You will also be approaching the limit on the Cats too and may need to consider running full time off road pipe if Florida does not have annual emissions testing.
Rick
The 250 DP shot though is a safe setup for the motor and a good learning level before you work up to a higher setting. I wouldn't go higher until you have proof that you're having a problem with some supras first. Your tire should hold the 150 hit at 50 pretty well but make sure you have the lanes to roam until you get a few practice runs in. I've had plenty of 60-70 starts up here with the DCX Viper crowd on 275 Nitto DRs. If you do any digs though you're going to want the ET Streets. I left a 124 ft patch doing some launch tests yesterday.
Another important thing to remember is that you will use 1lb per 10 seconds of a 100 shot. So figure 2.5 lbs even with the progressive ramp up for the 250 shot. Bottle pressure comes down quick after if is half empty so you're looking at 4 big runs on a 15lbs bottle which makes a dual bottle kit a good idea for the long nights in Florida.
Almost forgot... if you don't have a BMR Extreme, Sphon, or Madman torque arm... get one because it only a matter of time before the stock one snaps like a tooth pick even on your motor at this point. You will also be approaching the limit on the Cats too and may need to consider running full time off road pipe if Florida does not have annual emissions testing.
Rick
I'm getting the BMR Extreme T-Arm, the strongest one they offer.
So, can I have it set up where I have the 250 ramped shot start at like 5,000 rpm, then gradually reach the 250 max. THEN, have a button ready for another 50 if needed. Or just have the button ready for a 100 shot when driving around on a daily basis any time I wanted it and the 250 ramp shot would be de-activated until a crzy race came my way.
Is there some kind of programmable computer that can store different shot configurations that can be selected quickly? Or is nitrous set up one way and thats it, unless you change the whole thing?
I was thinking of losing the Random Techs and putting in 2 electric cutouts, then the Random Techs after those, howd that be???? Dumping the exhaust immediately after the collectors should give allot of power. We don't have emmissions but its still a federal crime to not have them, right? It also keeps the noise down.
There are a few 800+ RWHP Supras around here and a bunch of LPE TT Vettes. Also a few KB Cobras, they shouldn't be a problem though.
Hey, it's either do the nitrous or drop a Vortech X-Trim blower on it and make 1000 RWHP, which I still could do. My motor is coming apart next week, its just as easy to install some 8:1 cr pistons and bolt up the blower
Trending Topics
10-05-2003, 04:33 PM
#8
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (71)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Brady, Pa
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... On a direct port setup it's pretty much only one specific shot at a time. You could do say a TNT wet kit for 100 shot and keep the 250DP for the big dawgs. Just make sure you don't hit them both hehehe. I think the dual cutouts would be a nice idea. Kinda give it the sleep effect until you open them up. I would definately get some ET streets for racing. Have fun and be careful.
10-05-2003, 04:35 PM
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (71)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: East Brady, Pa
Posts: 3,703
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Forgot about the intake. Most sheetmetal intakes give some gains up top and on nitrous but lose low end. For your setup it might benefit you.
10-05-2003, 06:50 PM
#10
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... One thing to consider-
The spray hits hard off right off the go, the turbo will take a tad to get going. Not much, but a car to 2 is all you are asking for.
50-160 shouldnt be a problem. Anything over 160 on the street, and you have guts
The spray hits hard off right off the go, the turbo will take a tad to get going. Not much, but a car to 2 is all you are asking for.
50-160 shouldnt be a problem. Anything over 160 on the street, and you have guts
10-05-2003, 08:49 PM
#12
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
Stupid 800+whp Supras 
Greg
Greg
10-05-2003, 08:51 PM
#13
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
On a direct port setup it's pretty much only one specific shot at a time. You could do say a TNT wet kit for 100 shot and keep the 250DP for the big dawgs. Just make sure you don't hit them both hehehe. I think the dual cutouts would be a nice idea. Kinda give it the sleep effect until you open them up. I would definately get some ET streets for racing. Have fun and be careful.
I guess I could hook up a dry shot of say 100 with a button.
10-05-2003, 09:28 PM
#14
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: PURDUE
Posts: 1,413
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Personally, after thinking about what 2001-WS6 said... you'll probably be financially better off in the long run with a turbo or blower. 4 big runs with a 15lb bottle? It takes 55 bucks to fill mine!
10-05-2003, 10:36 PM
#15
9 Second Club
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Well, the DP shot is going to be a single stage setup. The progressive controller is going to stutter solenoids to slow the full to a starting HP amount until it goes full open for the full HP amount. So the controller is set to go with a 150 shot at WOT and ramp to 250 in like 3 seconds or as fast as you can with out wheel spin. So this would be a 50% to 100% ramp over 3 seconds.
You do have the ability to control these settings but it's not a driving down the freeway sort of control to change a specific program. There may be some controllers that can store multiple settings for quick switch retieval but I haven't looked at them.
If you want the afterburner approach with a DP setup then you would probably bump it to a 300 shot and run the progressive ramping from 50% to 85% to simulate the 150-250 shot runs. Then run it from 50%-100% when you need to use the full 300hp. Now the progressive controller stuttering does put some wear and tear on the solenoids but I would imagine a good DP kit's parts can handle this better than the average dry or wet kit.
The DP setup would be set with a WOT switch which with your Vig 3200 probably flashing to 3,600 on motor and will likely flash to 3,800 on the juice. So you are automatically in the safe zone for the engine (over 3,000 rpms). Since the system is set with an arming switch you won't have to worry about it unless you want to use it. You will also want to install and electric bottle opener, electric bottle preasure gague and an electric blanket to heat the bottle even in Florida because 1100 PSI rules the bottle world.
The two stage approach that I am using is the NX MAF dual stage kit. This is a Wet kit that mixes fuel and juice in the MAF. Generally people would not recomend going over a 200 shot with a wet kit for a single stage however these kits are rated for 300HP in dual stage. The theory goes that two sets of jets provides better atomizing mix of the fuel and juice, but I have not seen anyone run it up this high yet. I'll probably max mine at a 150 shot and a 75 shot next spring.
Rick
You do have the ability to control these settings but it's not a driving down the freeway sort of control to change a specific program. There may be some controllers that can store multiple settings for quick switch retieval but I haven't looked at them.
If you want the afterburner approach with a DP setup then you would probably bump it to a 300 shot and run the progressive ramping from 50% to 85% to simulate the 150-250 shot runs. Then run it from 50%-100% when you need to use the full 300hp. Now the progressive controller stuttering does put some wear and tear on the solenoids but I would imagine a good DP kit's parts can handle this better than the average dry or wet kit.
The DP setup would be set with a WOT switch which with your Vig 3200 probably flashing to 3,600 on motor and will likely flash to 3,800 on the juice. So you are automatically in the safe zone for the engine (over 3,000 rpms). Since the system is set with an arming switch you won't have to worry about it unless you want to use it. You will also want to install and electric bottle opener, electric bottle preasure gague and an electric blanket to heat the bottle even in Florida because 1100 PSI rules the bottle world.
The two stage approach that I am using is the NX MAF dual stage kit. This is a Wet kit that mixes fuel and juice in the MAF. Generally people would not recomend going over a 200 shot with a wet kit for a single stage however these kits are rated for 300HP in dual stage. The theory goes that two sets of jets provides better atomizing mix of the fuel and juice, but I have not seen anyone run it up this high yet. I'll probably max mine at a 150 shot and a 75 shot next spring.
Rick
10-05-2003, 10:43 PM
#16
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
Well, the DP shot is going to be a single stage setup. The progressive controller is going to stutter solenoids to slow the full to a starting HP amount until it goes full open for the full HP amount. So the controller is set to go with a 150 shot at WOT and ramp to 250 in like 3 seconds or as fast as you can with out wheel spin. So this would be a 50% to 100% ramp over 3 seconds.
You do have the ability to control these settings but it's not a driving down the freeway sort of control to change a specific program. There may be some controllers that can store multiple settings for quick switch retieval but I haven't looked at them.
If you want the afterburner approach with a DP setup then you would probably bump it to a 300 shot and run the progressive ramping from 50% to 85% to simulate the 150-250 shot runs. Then run it from 50%-100% when you need to use the full 300hp. Now the progressive controller stuttering does put some wear and tear on the solenoids but I would imagine a good DP kit's parts can handle this better than the average dry or wet kit.
The DP setup would be set with a WOT switch which with your Vig 3200 probably flashing to 3,600 on motor and will likely flash to 3,800 on the juice. So you are automatically in the safe zone for the engine (over 3,000 rpms). Since the system is set with an arming switch you won't have to worry about it unless you want to use it. You will also want to install and electric bottle opener, electric bottle preasure gague and an electric blanket to heat the bottle even in Florida because 1100 PSI rules the bottle world.
The two stage approach that I am using is the NX MAF dual stage kit. This is a Wet kit that mixes fuel and juice in the MAF. Generally people would not recomend going over a 200 shot with a wet kit for a single stage however these kits are rated for 300HP in dual stage. The theory goes that two sets of jets provides better atomizing mix of the fuel and juice, but I have not seen anyone run it up this high yet. I'll probably max mine at a 150 shot and a 75 shot next spring.
Rick
You do have the ability to control these settings but it's not a driving down the freeway sort of control to change a specific program. There may be some controllers that can store multiple settings for quick switch retieval but I haven't looked at them.
If you want the afterburner approach with a DP setup then you would probably bump it to a 300 shot and run the progressive ramping from 50% to 85% to simulate the 150-250 shot runs. Then run it from 50%-100% when you need to use the full 300hp. Now the progressive controller stuttering does put some wear and tear on the solenoids but I would imagine a good DP kit's parts can handle this better than the average dry or wet kit.
The DP setup would be set with a WOT switch which with your Vig 3200 probably flashing to 3,600 on motor and will likely flash to 3,800 on the juice. So you are automatically in the safe zone for the engine (over 3,000 rpms). Since the system is set with an arming switch you won't have to worry about it unless you want to use it. You will also want to install and electric bottle opener, electric bottle preasure gague and an electric blanket to heat the bottle even in Florida because 1100 PSI rules the bottle world.
The two stage approach that I am using is the NX MAF dual stage kit. This is a Wet kit that mixes fuel and juice in the MAF. Generally people would not recomend going over a 200 shot with a wet kit for a single stage however these kits are rated for 300HP in dual stage. The theory goes that two sets of jets provides better atomizing mix of the fuel and juice, but I have not seen anyone run it up this high yet. I'll probably max mine at a 150 shot and a 75 shot next spring.
Rick
Should have someone drill the wholes in my LS6 intake while it's out of the car so its easier to install the DP system later?
10-06-2003, 10:43 AM
#17
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bring it........ b*tch
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Quicken,
Cool to see that you're getting your rings done finally. I hope that fixes your smoking and low power problem! As far as contemplating using a blower or N20, I personally would stick with the N20 just because it's easier in the long run (although if you're trigger happy it might get a little pricey for all the bottle refills.) Many of the sick fast LS1 cars are big cubed motors with lots of nitrous, and although forced induction is really cool - I've been personally somewhat dissappointed in the results some have been getting. Seems like there are several LS1 cars that should be making sick power with FI but haven't gotten the results that I would expect. You'd also have to go to an aftermarket computer such as a FAST system for engine/fuel management and probably upgrade your fuel system again with a sumped fuel tank, big Weldon or Aeromotive external pump and new fuel lines.
For a big DP shot like you plan, you may need a seperate fueling system for the DP kit like Reckless did with his old one. If you're going to supply the DP system with your main fuel system for the engine as well, you may need to upgrade your main fueling system anyway with like dual intank pumps and new lines or go the big external system that I mentioned previously.
Cool to see that you're getting your rings done finally. I hope that fixes your smoking and low power problem! As far as contemplating using a blower or N20, I personally would stick with the N20 just because it's easier in the long run (although if you're trigger happy it might get a little pricey for all the bottle refills.) Many of the sick fast LS1 cars are big cubed motors with lots of nitrous, and although forced induction is really cool - I've been personally somewhat dissappointed in the results some have been getting. Seems like there are several LS1 cars that should be making sick power with FI but haven't gotten the results that I would expect. You'd also have to go to an aftermarket computer such as a FAST system for engine/fuel management and probably upgrade your fuel system again with a sumped fuel tank, big Weldon or Aeromotive external pump and new fuel lines.
For a big DP shot like you plan, you may need a seperate fueling system for the DP kit like Reckless did with his old one. If you're going to supply the DP system with your main fuel system for the engine as well, you may need to upgrade your main fueling system anyway with like dual intank pumps and new lines or go the big external system that I mentioned previously.
10-06-2003, 01:27 PM
#18
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker...........................
Quicken,
Cool to see that you're getting your rings done finally. I hope that fixes your smoking and low power problem! As far as contemplating using a blower or N20, I personally would stick with the N20 just because it's easier in the long run (although if you're trigger happy it might get a little pricey for all the bottle refills.) Many of the sick fast LS1 cars are big cubed motors with lots of nitrous, and although forced induction is really cool - I've been personally somewhat dissappointed in the results some have been getting. Seems like there are several LS1 cars that should be making sick power with FI but haven't gotten the results that I would expect. You'd also have to go to an aftermarket computer such as a FAST system for engine/fuel management and probably upgrade your fuel system again with a sumped fuel tank, big Weldon or Aeromotive external pump and new fuel lines.
For a big DP shot like you plan, you may need a seperate fueling system for the DP kit like Reckless did with his old one. If you're going to supply the DP system with your main fuel system for the engine as well, you may need to upgrade your main fueling system anyway with like dual intank pumps and new lines or go the big external system that I mentioned previously.
Cool to see that you're getting your rings done finally. I hope that fixes your smoking and low power problem! As far as contemplating using a blower or N20, I personally would stick with the N20 just because it's easier in the long run (although if you're trigger happy it might get a little pricey for all the bottle refills.) Many of the sick fast LS1 cars are big cubed motors with lots of nitrous, and although forced induction is really cool - I've been personally somewhat dissappointed in the results some have been getting. Seems like there are several LS1 cars that should be making sick power with FI but haven't gotten the results that I would expect. You'd also have to go to an aftermarket computer such as a FAST system for engine/fuel management and probably upgrade your fuel system again with a sumped fuel tank, big Weldon or Aeromotive external pump and new fuel lines.
For a big DP shot like you plan, you may need a seperate fueling system for the DP kit like Reckless did with his old one. If you're going to supply the DP system with your main fuel system for the engine as well, you may need to upgrade your main fueling system anyway with like dual intank pumps and new lines or go the big external system that I mentioned previously.
I'm gonna have Mike drill the holes for the DP, but just wait a couple months before I do it. I may even get a sheetmetal intake when I do it.
Speaking of blowers, I was talking with a guy who allot of people know "BlackDemon" in Louisianna. He got me started on the Vortech X-Trim idea. He has a 2000 Formula with a 382 iron block stroker with the X-Trim and he's putting down 802 RWHP and 768 RWTQ. About a month ago he ran 9.6 @ 149. But I haven't been able to get a hold of him for a few weeks. Votech siad I should easily get 1,000 RWHP with such a big motor. Maybe a next project down the road. I just need to get this N/A monster running right.
Later
10-06-2003, 02:38 PM
#19
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Bring it........ b*tch
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Yeah, spoke to Mike Norris today, next week on Tuesday I'm dropping it off.
I'm gonna have Mike drill the holes for the DP, but just wait a couple months before I do it. I may even get a sheetmetal intake when I do it.
Speaking of blowers, I was talking with a guy who allot of people know "BlackDemon" in Louisianna. He got me started on the Vortech X-Trim idea. He has a 2000 Formula with a 382 iron block stroker with the X-Trim and he's putting down 802 RWHP and 768 RWTQ. About a month ago he ran 9.6 @ 149. But I haven't been able to get a hold of him for a few weeks. Votech siad I should easily get 1,000 RWHP with such a big motor. Maybe a next project down the road. I just need to get this N/A monster running right.
Later
In any case, on the squeeze with a decent DP shot, as long as you have a good stall and suspension set up your car should definately go deep 9's with good driving. Properly set up, your car should or could be as fast or faster than most of the blower cars. I'm almost more impressed by some of the crazy FI LT1 cars.....
10-06-2003, 03:46 PM
#20
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: 250 DP shot on my ARE 436 stroker........................... Cool. You'll have to post up your new NA #'s once you get everything back together. 802RWHP is awesome, but you will have the same amount of power and more TQ as the blown car you mentioned with the 250-300DP shot. Like I said FI is cool, but you're opening another can of worms on that one just trying to get it tuned and set up properly. Go read the FI board and read about guys having problems with blower belts getting shredded all the time, fueling and tuning issues with aftermarket computers, massive fuel systems and huge injectors, heads lifting off the block under high boost (huge problem on the LS1) etc. Not to mention I think that FI on your engine may not be the wisest choice because you have such a massive stroke and bore. I personally haven't seen a blown LS1 bigger than a 427 so far..... BTW, did you decide to go for a bigger cam at all?
In any case, on the squeeze with a decent DP shot, as long as you have a good stall and suspension set up your car should definately go deep 9's with good driving. Properly set up, your car should or could be as fast or faster than most of the blower cars. I'm almost more impressed by some of the crazy FI LT1 cars.....
What do you think about the two electric cutouts where my cats are? What kind of power/torque increase will that give me?