69dodgecharger

Hey,

So last month I finished up a Heads, Cam, Inatake swap on my 02 Z06. I have since put about 1,000 miles on it. Today while driving I noticed some odd noises so I pulled over and poped the hood. I noticed that my belt was missing 2 ribs, and that my hood liner was shredded. I figure no biggie I tossed a belt. Nope, I look a little deeper and see that my main drive belt is actually running on the A/C belt groove in the crank pulley.

So what causes this? I torqued the crap out of that crank bolt, and I used a new one when I put the pulley back on. I'm thinking 3 things could have happend.
1-Bolt just backed out (hopfully this is the case) but why?
2-Bolt striped, or broke
3-threads in crank striped

Any ideas? Or comments?

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

Unfortunately the rotation of the motor turns in the direction which can loosen the crank bolt. Too bad GM didin't go with left handed threads. I would reseat the pulley and use a a LOT of red loctite on the crank bolt. Torque the hell out of it and keep an eye on it for a few days. Recheck the bolt after a week. Works for me.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

ARP bolt, Red Loctite, and 250 lb/ft of torque. A little over a year later of daily driving and no issues.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

i used red loctite a new gm bolt and a impact gun to tighten mine down after i got it seated correctly with an old bolt. i know its a major no no and stupid, but i was lazy and tired. been fine for 6 months

ItsNotStock

iTrader: (24)

I have seen this happen with a Honda missing a shift and over-revving the crap out of the engine but never out of the blue. Seems the consensus is red loctite, but I would keep an eye on it for a while if I were you.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Did you seat the pulley with the old bolt first? I have done dozens like that and never ran into this problem. In a few cases where people just put the new bolt on and threaded it on without pounding it on and putting some torque on it, it may wobble and walk its way out.

69dodgecharger

I used the old bolt to seat the pulley. Then I put this one in. I am not sure how much I torqued it, my wrench only goes to 160, but I had a breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe for leverage so it was tight.

Maybe I didnt get it tight enough and the bolt didnt stretch?

NVR_SPDS

iTrader: (39)

Another option, is to key the crank, so the damper cannot turn to loosen the bolt. I think i read somewhere that boosted apps have a tendency to remove the crank pulley due to it being turned off.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I think that 200ft lbs maybe 220 is good enough. That is the estimate that we have always established while tightening them. Keying the crank is also another good idea, i didn't think about that.

JayplaySS

iTrader: (15)

You gotta yank the rack to get to it on C5's/C6's. Sucks

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

all the super torquing should have been done with the OLD bolt. the torgue on the new bolt is like 50 or less. proper seating of the pulley is COMPLETELY done using the old bolt. you probably overstressed the new bolt and it failed, hopefully. and you may well have torn up your torque wrench if you used it past 160 for a while before you switched to the breaker bar/cheaper pipe. if only the bolt failed, you got lucky, bro.