What tool to flare stainless direct port lines??
10-07-2003, 02:31 AM
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What tool to flare stainless direct port lines?? I finished bending up my own direct port kit i built on a ls6 intake. I put my flaring tool that clamps to the line and flares the pipe but it wont flare it because the metals too strong. Its made for copper/alum i think.
any ideas?
any ideas?
10-07-2003, 07:53 AM
#3
Re: What tool to flare stainless direct port lines?? Is the direct port using "AN" flare fittings? Standard AN flare is 37.5 degrees (flare angle) and a standard flare tool is 45 degrees. You may not want to "overflare" the line to 45 degrees and try to torque it until it won't leak, you may crack the tube (this is assuming that you have 37.5 degree fittings....I think they are). If you need a 37.5 degree tool, you may want to try www.wicksaircraftsupply.com or www.aircraftspruce.com. They will be expensive...but it may be worth it....
Have fun!
Have fun!
10-07-2003, 10:11 PM
#5
Re: What tool to flare stainless direct port lines??
Is the direct port using "AN" flare fittings? Standard AN flare is 37.5 degrees (flare angle) and a standard flare tool is 45 degrees. You may not want to "overflare" the line to 45 degrees and try to torque it until it won't leak, you may crack the tube (this is assuming that you have 37.5 degree fittings....I think they are). If you need a 37.5 degree tool, you may want to try www.wicksaircraftsupply.com or www.aircraftspruce.com.
They will be expensive...but it may be worth it....
Have fun!
They will be expensive...but it may be worth it....
Have fun!
The difference in degrees is normal, that is, SAE and JIC (AN) have different angles but are compatable. They will seal fine, you don't have to torque them down so tight as they make contact on the full face. In fact, if you put together a female and male JIC flare set-up they will be a few degrees off from each other and after torquing to specs you will have a small ring were they sealed, not the full seat. I think it's called an interferance fit or something like that. It's ok to mix jic and sae fittings (except 3/8 and 3/4) and flair degrees. You should flair your tube all the way or it won't be correct and could cause leaking problems and SAE flair tool is usually for copper and mostly won't stand up to SS tube. Hope this made sense.
Edit: If you are flairing SS you should be using a SS flair tool and this will stop all problems.
10-13-2003, 10:32 PM
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Re: What tool to flare stainless direct port lines??
The difference in degrees is normal, that is, SAE and JIC (AN) have different angles but are compatable. They will seal fine, you don't have to torque them down so tight as they make contact on the full face. In fact, if you put together a female and male JIC flare set-up they will be a few degrees off from each other and after torquing to specs you will have a small ring were they sealed, not the full seat. I think it's called an interferance fit or something like that. It's ok to mix jic and sae fittings (except 3/8 and 3/4) and flair degrees. You should flair your tube all the way or it won't be correct and could cause leaking problems and SAE flair tool is usually for copper and mostly won't stand up to SS tube. Hope this made sense.
Edit: If you are flairing SS you should be using a SS flair tool and this will stop all problems.
Edit: If you are flairing SS you should be using a SS flair tool and this will stop all problems.
If people want to sit here and talk about what they think _might_ work properly that's cool it's also cool if some people don't mind half assing things on their car.
Personally if I do something I want to do it the correct way. If anyone else cares do to high performance automotive plumbing correctly I suggest you do what I did and buy Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, & Plumbing Handbook and read it cover to cover over and over until you understand not only what this man is saying but also that doing things the right way every single time you do it with no short-cutting is the only way to do things.
just my opinion.
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11-03-2003, 09:32 PM
#8
I went to Advance and bought a 24" brake line and it's flared on both ends, all you haft to do is cut it in haft and you will have two unless you need it flared at both ends thay are flared at 37* .It worked.I did this with my fogger with know leaks.
