LS2 Block hp rating?
01-30-2009, 12:44 PM
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LS2 Block hp rating? anyone know how much hp an aluminium LS2 block will hold? i am planning on this block.......http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=137&catid=42
01-30-2009, 09:12 PM
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anyone know how much hp an aluminium LS2 block will hold? i am planning on this block.......http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=137&catid=42
01-30-2009, 09:24 PM
#3
Ls2 I agree with Vette n c as the block should be good to 900hp..
My 402 (ls2 block) has had no problems and popped 482 N/A on the dyno. Then afterwards a SD tune and it came alive...
Steve @ RED told me he has resleeved LS2's runnin round making 900hp ..
LS7 block maybe a lil stronger ...
My 402 (ls2 block) has had no problems and popped 482 N/A on the dyno. Then afterwards a SD tune and it came alive...
Steve @ RED told me he has resleeved LS2's runnin round making 900hp ..
LS7 block maybe a lil stronger ...
01-31-2009, 09:52 AM
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thanks guys. i should be fine then. my plans are a 418 with a turbo. probably 88 or 91.5 mm. i want to make right around 850 to 900 rwhp. i just didn't want to run into cracked webbing or cracked galley issues. would you reccommend using girddles? or will i be ok with out? i'm from the ford world so i'm trying to learn all the ins and outs of the chevy world. like in the ford world the aluminum stuff is the way to go but here it seems that the cast iron is the way to go. i really want to run with alluminum for the weight savings because i want to keep my ac and power steering but slaughtering cobras in the meantime.
01-31-2009, 09:59 AM
#6
Main Cap Girdle A main cap Girdle might be a lil bit of insurance, however the Girdle needs to be checked to insure it will not distort your main caps when it's torqued down !
As I remember, that's what Steve said.
BTW, I'm with ya in trying 2 slaughter those pesky muskrats .....
As I remember, that's what Steve said.
BTW, I'm with ya in trying 2 slaughter those pesky muskrats .....
Last edited by davidws6; 01-31-2009 at 10:01 AM. Reason: btw
01-31-2009, 07:09 PM
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You might want to check some of the other threads. I have heard that if you go too big on the bore with boost that you might run into trouble. I am definitely not an expert but I read a lot on here as I am doing an LS2 with a procharger and cam. Just something to check on. Good luck and let us know how it turns out
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02-01-2009, 08:33 AM
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thanks guys. i should be fine then. my plans are a 418 with a turbo. probably 88 or 91.5 mm. i want to make right around 850 to 900 rwhp. i just didn't want to run into cracked webbing or cracked galley issues. would you reccommend using girddles? or will i be ok with out? i'm from the ford world so i'm trying to learn all the ins and outs of the chevy world. like in the ford world the aluminum stuff is the way to go but here it seems that the cast iron is the way to go. i really want to run with alluminum for the weight savings because i want to keep my ac and power steering but slaughtering cobras in the meantime.
Hopped over to the LSx side last year. PM me sometime.As mentioned, a girdle is safe insurance, but needs to be torqued in place (with main caps) and line honed at that time. Any reputable machine shop will know this. However, if you already have teh motor, just don't throw on teh girdle, machine work is gonna be necessary.
You can run an iron block if you want, and keep your PS and AC, you know that right? While the aluminum is lighter than the iron (duh, right?) it is only about 70 LBS. So, while it IS something, it is not like you are adding 150 or 200 LBS on the nose.
The levels I mentioned earlier (1400 FWHP) was on a wet sleeved block, so do not want to confuse you. But, I will say that the stock LS2 liners/block is good for about 900 HP, give or take. Your TUNE has alot to do with how the block will hold up.
02-01-2009, 08:36 AM
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You might want to check some of the other threads. I have heard that if you go too big on the bore with boost that you might run into trouble. I am definitely not an expert but I read a lot on here as I am doing an LS2 with a procharger and cam. Just something to check on. Good luck and let us know how it turns out
Yes, he is right. When you start taking the bore bigger, you start taking meat out of your cylinder (duh, right?) and of course, sacrificing some strength. It is a fine line....bigger bore unshrouds teh valves, more cubic inches, that's good......thinner cylinder wall can distort under high boost and sacrifice ring seal, that's bad.
02-01-2009, 10:53 AM
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Steel billet main caps (make sure they are dowled), and a girdle would give you the ultimate strength, of course, you would have a nice crank in there also. Throw all that onto an iron block & the strength increases.
I threw the billet caps onto an iron block, with a callies crank, and have had no problems.
I threw the billet caps onto an iron block, with a callies crank, and have had no problems.
02-02-2009, 09:32 AM
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Man I love talking HP!!!
As mentioned it just really depends on whatyou want to do. It sounds like at the levels you plan to make, teh LS2 will handle it, while if you went iron, it would be even more insurance. I mean, is that extra 70 lbs on teh nose gonna make that much of a difference for you? Depends on what you are trying to do...road race? Drag race? etc... Follow me?
My next project: (my 414" is not quite done yet, and I am already starting my other build
)
MID LS1 block from RED with Billet caps
Billet crank (probaly a Scat) stroke not determined yet
GRP aluminum rods
Wiseco Pistons (4.125-4.185) not sure yet
And I want to come in the neighborhood of 427"-440"or so
LOTS of compression LOTS of cam LOTS of head LOTS of intake for hopefully LOTS of NA HP
As mentioned it just really depends on whatyou want to do. It sounds like at the levels you plan to make, teh LS2 will handle it, while if you went iron, it would be even more insurance. I mean, is that extra 70 lbs on teh nose gonna make that much of a difference for you? Depends on what you are trying to do...road race? Drag race? etc... Follow me?My next project: (my 414" is not quite done yet, and I am already starting my other build
)MID LS1 block from RED with Billet caps
Billet crank (probaly a Scat) stroke not determined yet
GRP aluminum rods
Wiseco Pistons (4.125-4.185) not sure yet
And I want to come in the neighborhood of 427"-440"or so
LOTS of compression LOTS of cam LOTS of head LOTS of intake for hopefully LOTS of NA HP
02-02-2009, 09:53 AM
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Steel billet main caps (make sure they are dowled), and a girdle would give you the ultimate strength, of course, you would have a nice crank in there also. Throw all that onto an iron block & the strength increases.
I threw the billet caps onto an iron block, with a callies crank, and have had no problems.
I threw the billet caps onto an iron block, with a callies crank, and have had no problems.
billet caps (dowled)
and you will be fine i think the girdle is overkill and a waste of time and money
02-02-2009, 02:28 PM
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I run a Stock LS2 block and main caps...
Made 1213 RWHP and the block looked fine upon teardown...
caps weren't pinned and they did walk...only change to block is addition of main pins
Made 1213 RWHP and the block looked fine upon teardown...
caps weren't pinned and they did walk...only change to block is addition of main pins
02-02-2009, 02:39 PM
#14
LS2 block There you go guy's ..
This is the foundation of our LS2 sleeved blocks. If the stock block can handle that, we just have to worry about the new sleeves. I heard that at 4.125 the Darton dry liners will support a 300 shot of NOX, so we should be good 2 go .. Though as we all know, it's in the tune to keep it out of detonation ! !
BTW, There is also the LS7 Race block that does not have the holes in the main webs for cyl. to cyl breathing, like the ol LS1, but I understand it's pricey...
This is the foundation of our LS2 sleeved blocks. If the stock block can handle that, we just have to worry about the new sleeves. I heard that at 4.125 the Darton dry liners will support a 300 shot of NOX, so we should be good 2 go .. Though as we all know, it's in the tune to keep it out of detonation ! !
BTW, There is also the LS7 Race block that does not have the holes in the main webs for cyl. to cyl breathing, like the ol LS1, but I understand it's pricey...
