Gears & Axles - sheered 4 of 5 wheel studs..moser 12 bolt

I have no idea how this happened. Unless they were loose maybe? I just got this car last tuesday. 97z 6spd right at 500rwhp. 28x10.5x15 weld drag lites. So now i am trying to get the axle out, the ring for the ABS is in the way to drive out the studs. Also there don't appear to be enough room between the sensor gear and the nuts that hold the axle in?? THANKS!!!!!!

What kinda lug nuts are you using? Also, are these studs the standard 12mm? If so, I'd say that is your answer. For the power you are seeing and the abuse you are handing out, you need 1/2" studs, bare minimum, and you probably also need to use a lug nut with a pretty beefy shank.

I dont, they look only 7/16. Everything come from moser is what the guy said. Any suggestions on getting the nuts off that hold the axle in?? thanks

Not sure...I can get to the ones on my Strange just fine after removing the parking brake with an offset wrench and a hammer to bang on the wrench.

its just the abs rings is in the way, is it pressed on? or is the axle threaded for it?

The ABS rings are pressed on. Most guys grind a wrench so it will fit between the ring and reach the T-Bolt nuts.

anyone have any more ideas? Any suggestions on getting the abs ring loose?

I would go to a shop with a press to have the abs rings pressed off. Oh and the axle will have to come out for that.

That's where the disconnect is...I have no ABS provisions on my 12-bolt. Forgot about those damned rings...

I have a 9 inch but there is enough room to slip a wrench in there to get the four bolts loose. And also on mine there is enough room to take the studs out without removing the ring even though it doesn not appear that way. I just mentioned that b/c at first I thought I was going to have to take the exciter ring off but once I tried it worked. And you can just [carefully] pry the ABS reluctor ring off. It's not fragile as far as I know but you don't want to start breaking teeth off of it. You can tap it back on also when the time comes. Heat it up in the oven first. And at least get some ARP studs for replacements!

this car has a pro charger on it and they deleted the abs anyways, i wonder if i even need to put the ring back on if i take it off? it just barely lacks allowing me to pry the studs out with it on.

this car has a pro charger on it and they deleted the abs anyways, i wonder if i even need to put the ring back on if i take it off? it just barely lacks allowing me to pry the studs out with it on.

No ABS? Screw that shit...ditch the rings. Does the traction control system still work? I wouldn't EVEN hesitate to get rid of that system (and I didn't - shit's been gone for about a year now).

You can just take the rings off then if you don't have ABS and don't care about TCS. The only thing is to see if ABS and/or TCS was properly deleted. If you can undo the rear wheel speed sensors and no dash lights come on and HEAVY braking is still the same then you're good, it was done properly. And, I'm sure you can sell the rings on here if you wanted to as I see want to buy threads for the rings.

sounds good, they did away with the TCS whenever they put on the pro charger. So the asr light is always on, the brake light stays on too? I dont know if there is a way to shut that off. I got the axle out and all, any tips on getting the bearing off without taking it to a press?

Shouldn't have to press the bearing off to change the studs? If you ditched the ABS then pry the wheel off with a pry bar little by little going in circles then cut that wheel in half. Should be enough room to swap the studs then.

Bearing has to be pressed off and if they are sealed bearings your gonna want to put new ones on while your at it. Their cheap and they dont last all that well. Upgrade to taper bearings if you want to do this once they last forever

Shouldn't have to press the bearing off to change the studs? If you ditched the ABS then pry the wheel off with a pry bar little by little going in circles then cut that wheel in half. Should be enough room to swap the studs then.

Bearing has to be pressed off and if they are sealed bearings your gonna want to put new ones on while your at it. Their cheap and they dont last all that well. Upgrade to taper bearings if you want to do this once they last forever

i could do that, what do i cut it with? will a torch not get the bearing too hot? the plate that bolts to the axle housing is also there, dont give me much room, idk if theres enough room to get a cut off wheel in there. :bang:

Those rings are very mild a dremel would cut them with ease or even bolt cutters would probably do the trick. Just wrap a shopping bag around the bearing and tape it up good before you cut. A torch would do it easy too if you have one dont forget once you pry the ring off its swing in the breeze away from the axle and bearing so there will be no heat transfer provided you dont point the heat in the bearings direction or blow molten steel over it

sounds good...torch makes everything easy!

Heat wrench is handy for sure.

If you use the torch dont wrap the plastic bag around the bearing just mount the axle somewhere securely and let the ring dangle after its pried off and cut it carefully blowing the slag away from the bearing and the axle.

sounds good, they did away with the TCS whenever they put on the pro charger. So the asr light is always on, the brake light stays on too? I dont know if there is a way to shut that off. I got the axle out and all, any tips on getting the bearing off without taking it to a press?

The lights stay on unless you take out the bulb(s) or put a piece of black tape over them. I understand it's a common practice as you can't just "tune out" these particular codes.

And if you're cutting the bearings off can't you just pry off the rings and save them?

The lights stay on unless you take out the bulb(s) or put a piece of black tape over them. I understand it's a common practice as you can't just "tune out" these particular codes.

And if you're cutting the bearings off can't you just pry off the rings and save them?

we were talking about cutting off the ring. I did some redneck ingenuity and got the ring off without taking the bearing off. I ground a flat spot on two sides, drilled 3 1/4" holes on each one then beat a chisel all the way through on each side until it split! Worked good. I was kinda hesitant about using my blue wrench to cut off the ring. Now i can put in the new studs in and dont have to get the bearing pressed off.

has anyone ever just put grade 8 bolts in to hold the axle rather then the T bolts? Wouldn't this allow for easier removal...?

has anyone ever just put grade 8 bolts in to hold the axle rather then the T bolts? Wouldn't this allow for easier removal...?

Mine has a few hex bolts that were shaved down on one side to work in place of the T bolts. I guess the previous owner lost a couple of the T bolts. Seems to work fine.

Were you using a spacer at all?

Were you using a spacer at all?

no spacers that i know of? Im assuming they would be between the axle housing and the bracket on the axle itself

I mean between the rim and the axle. I've heard that sometimes they will cause the studs to break.

oh, no spacers.